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Category: Alcohol Education / History / Food and Beverage

The right drop: Gin revival sweeps UK, as distilleries pop up across London

Sunday, 14 Feb 2016 09:39:14 | Lisa Millar

Distillery owner Max Chater explains the joys of gin on the London Gin Trail. (ABC: Lisa Millar)

There is no other beverage — apart from the humble cup of tea — that is more quintessentially British than gin.

Once dismissed as old fashioned, gin is now experiencing a revival, and small gin distilleries are popping up all over London.

Gin sales outside of the UK have risen almost 40 per cent in the past five years.

England exports enough of the liquor to make 1.6 billion gin and tonics.

The British Government has shown its support for the gin renaissance by launching an official London Gin Trail, which stops at 12 different gin locations in London.

Environment Secretary Elizabeth Truss said she hoped to see gin exports match the success of Scotland's whisky industry, which generates 4 billion pounds a year in exports.

It was not the first time a gin craze swept the nation.

I think distillers are finding it really fun making gin again because it's like a blank canvas – apart from juniper, that's basically it.

Distillery owner Max Chater

Gin was so popular in 18th Century London it was blamed for everything from crime to prostitution, and even falling birth rates.

Once considered a cheap medicinal cure for indigestion, the drink quickly earned the nickname "mother's ruin".

But now the drink is back, and there is a respect for the liquor that borders on the religious.

Gin boom propelled by discerning public

Distillery owner Max Chater is the tour leader on the four-hour London Gin Trail.

He said gin's newfound popularity was fuelled by a more discerning public.

London Gin Trail Photo: Lisa Millar mixes a cocktail on the London Gin Trail (ABC: Lisa Millar)

"The floodgates just opened up and people's tastes have changed into more flavour, they want more from their drinks," Mr Chater.

"It's the same with food now ... people care more about what's in the drink."

Gin is easier to make than many other liquors, since unlike whisky or wine, it can be brewed without ageing or barrels.

The fermenting alcohol is then infused with herbs to give it flavour.

"Gin is the most aromatic of all spirits. It's got so much going on with it," Mr Chater said.

"And, botanically speaking, you can do anything so long as it's got juniper.

"So I think distillers are finding it really fun making gin again because it's like a blank canvas — apart from juniper, that's basically it."

Mr Chater said the trail had become a beacon for all kinds of gin lovers.

"It's a real mix of everyone, like young professionals, older people," he said.

"So I think everyone's interested in booze really, apart from the temperance lovers."

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