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September 4, 2013

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Home » City specials » Chengdu

Hakka charm shines through in Luodai

By Fei Lai | September 4, 2013, Wednesday | Print Edition

For those visiting Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan Province, getting outside the city for a day and touring around an ancient town inhabited by Hakka people is a great idea.

Luodai Ancient Town is attracting tourists with its unique history and culture.

An easy ride of around 60 minutes from Chengdu brings you to a town where friendly people smile at visitors and speak Hakka dialect.

Visitors are often greeted by elderly women selling flower garlands, similar to the practice in Hawaii of greeting newcomers with a lei.

“I couldn’t resist buying one, because most new comers to the ancient town will start the tour by wearing a flower garland,” says Li Weiyan, a tourist from Shenzhen, Guangdong Province. “It is handmade and only costs 10 yuan (US$1.60). I feel I’m part of the town when I wear it.”

The old town features a main street with ancient buildings housing shops and restaurants. Farmers from nearby villages sell fresh vegetables and fruit by the road, and food stands also vie for your attention.

A number of dress and costume shops allow you to play make believe and dress up in everything from military fatigues and evening wear to ancient costumes for only 2 yuan (photo included).

“The old buildings with the black-tiled roofs, white walls and wooden doors are so traditional and beautiful,” says tourist Zhang Lian. “They make a wonderful background for artistic photos.”

The buildings date back to the 1600s and are well-preserved.

Besides, there are different buildings for Hakka people from Guangdong, Jiangxi, Hunan, Hubei and other places to gather.

The architecture of the guild halls is typical of the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties, with delicate and vivid carvings of dragons, phoenix, flowers and birds. These buildings standout from the others in town.

These guild halls were once used to meet friends, settle disputes and make sacrifices to their ancestors and gods.

The Hakkas are a branch of the Han Chinese. In the early years of the Qing Dynasty, the Hakkas began moving to Sichuan from the provinces of Guangdong, Hubei, Hunan and Jiangxi.

More than 2 million Hakkas now live in Sichuan. 

Luodai is know for the best Hakka dishes and snacks, which are hard to find elsewhere.

Xinmin Restaurant is one of the most popular restaurants in town. Oil-boiled goose is the town’s best-known dish. Sauteed mushrooms with chicken is another favorite.

“Vegetables grow in abundance in the area,” says Wang Yan, a waitress. “Hakka food is mild and is especially popular with people from southern China.”

There is a special alley full of booths where visitors can try local snacks.

“Sad bean jelly” (ÉËÐÄÁ¹•Û) is high on the list. Its name was coined because it is so spicy that it can make someone burst into tears.

The antidote to sad bean jelly is “happy iced bean jelly” (¿ªÐÄÁ¹•Û), which is sweet.

A snack called “swan egg” (Ìì¶ìµ°) is made of wheat flour and shaped like an egg.

Other delicacies include tofu pudding, along with rose sugar and pink cotton candy.

“The town is suitable for visiting year round. But the best season to visit Luodai is summer. Pears, grapes, loquats and peaches are in season and people can eat outdoors in the evening,” says Xiang You, a snack booth owner.

Xiang says another attraction is the Water Dragon Festival.

“It is an old custom for Hakka people to perform water dragon dances every year in the summer to thank deities for rainfall and a bumper harvest,” Xiang adds.

Performers only wear short pants, and wave a dragon up and down, while watchers use water guns or basins to chase after the dragon and pour water at it. Hakka people see water as the source of wealth, so the wetter the scene, the better your luck will be.

In January, the Fire Dragon Festival is held. Performers wave the dragon up and down while onlookers use fireworks to scare the dragon. The fireworks are a symbol of wealth and fortune. Brighter flames symbolize a better future.

A one-day tour can end tranquilly with a stop in a small park, joining the elderly to drink tea or enjoying unique Hakka charm.Fact about Luodai Ancient Town

Luodai Ancient Town covers an area of 20 square kilometers and more than 90 percent of the population is Hakka people.

Hakka dialect is widely used. Luodai Ancient Town is considered the largest and best preserved Hakka ancient town in western China.

Luodai has profound history and culture.

The town was built during the Three Kingdoms Period (AD 220-280) more than 1,000 years ago. Its architecture and layout is reminiscent of styles from the Ming and Qing dynasties.

It was recorded that as early as the Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 220), a street named Wanjing Street was established in the area. As years passed, it was enlarged and the area evolved into a small town.

In 1976, Luodai was officially declared a town.

 

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