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March 13, 2013

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HomeCity specialsChengdu

Kinder and gentler Sichuan cooking

EDITOR'S note:

Famed as the home of the panda, Chengdu, capital of China's southwestern Sichuan Province, has many attractions to offer visitors. Whether it's experiencing the city's laid-back vibe over a leisurely brew at a teahouse; exploring its historic lanes; sampling its renowned numbing and spicy cuisine; or discovering a rich history stretching back millennia, there are no shortage of options. And of course, don't forget to make a date with certain cute black and white natives too.

Sichuan cuisine is famous for being hot, spicy and numbing because of the liberal use of chilies and peppercorns.

Dishes in the capital city Chengdu are milder, however, and relatively less spicy and pungent than the cooking elsewhere.

Many people think Sichuan cooking is all about fire, but there's flavor, nuance and diversity as well.

Chengdu is famous for its easy-going lifestyle and people put a lot of emphasis on comfort and quality of life. They want good cooking and snacks available at all times, not just fancy dishes for banquets.


Mapo tofu

Chengdu has contributed many dishes to the rich menu of Sichuan cuisine, and Mapo tofu is one of the most famous.

It was invented by Chen Mapo, a female restaurant owner, around 1862. Her face had pock marks so she was called Mapo, ma meaning pock marks and po meaning woman.

Her eatery was near a bridge and many workers passed every day, carrying bean curd, beef and oil, which they asked her to cook.

In time, Chan Mapo developed a special skill for cooking the bean curd and her dishes always looked appetizing, smelled good and tasted better. Locals couldn't resist cheap and delicious food and soon Chen Mapo and her bean curd became symbols of Chengdu cooking.

Over more than 140 years, Chen Mapo's cooking has been carried on by generations. Today the restaurant is at 197 Xiyulong Street. Although the location has changed, the taste is the same.

Manager Li says there's a secret recipe known only to the head chef who will pass it on to the next head chef when he retires.

To fully appreciate Mapo tofu, it should be eaten immediately when it's hot. The taste is hot, spicy, salty and delicate; the bean curd must be soft and fresh.

Mapo tofu is often served at banquets, but it makes a good meal in itself if eaten with a bowl of rice. That way, other flavors don't obscure the taste and the secret recipe.

Nine-grid hotpot

Hotpot is a favorite dish around China, but Chengdu spicy hotpot is special. So-called nine-grid hotpot is famous. In nine-grid (or nine-pocket) hotpot, the square pot itself is divided into nine portions or grids, in which different ingredients are placed, each retaining its separate taste.

In some restaurants, the pot is divided into four containers for different meat and vegetables.

Many hotpot dishes in Chengdu are not salty, though they are spicy.

But again, the fire isn't overpowering as in other Sichuan dishes.

Locals like to cook beef tripe and sliced kidney in hotpot.

Condiments vary but usually include sesame oil, sesame paste and chili powder.

Hotpot skewers

Chuanchuan are inexpensive street snacks of meat and vegetables that are cooked in a hotpot and then skewered and served on a bamboo stick.

It's sold by the skewer and each stick costs from half a yuan (8 US cents) to 1.50 yuan.

The cheap price allows people to try more varieties as they stroll along. Ten yuan can buy a range of tastes and satisfy hunger.

Those who are really hungry can spend 50 to 60 yuan for a good meal.

Condiments include sesame oil, sesame paste and chili powder.

These Chengdu snacks are often much spicier than Chengdu hotpot, since they're a favorite with locals with a taste for heat.


 

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