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Bridge is city's best kept secret
By Shi Xiaohan |
June 16, 2011, Thursday
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Print Edition
Print Edition
NESTLED among Hangzhou's popular tourist attractions is an overlooked area offering history and tranquility in abundance. Shi Xiaohan discovers this delightful destination.
On the way from Hangzhou's scenic West Lake to its religious resort Lingyin Temple, one must pass by Baile Bridge. For most travelers, the small bridge, hidden in the vast idyllic area, is easily ignored, as is the village the bridge is connected to. However, once one has walked across the bridge and set foot in the village, the tranquility as well as the history of the residential area can be hard to forget.
The bridge is also known as Wanfo Bridge, literally translated as Ten Thousand Buddha Bridge. It was said to have been built during the Tang Dynasty (618-907) by the mayor and poet Bai Juyi. The actual bridge that stands today however was rebuilt in 1904. It is a single-arch stone bridge, 14.8-meters long and 3.7-meters wide, with a simple elegant style. Two creeks, running from different directions, converge under the bridge.
South of Baile Bridge is Baile village, which was formed in the 1950s. Today, there are some 400 households registered in the residential area. Most of them rely on the local tea plantation for their livelihood.
Enjoying a great view and location, the village was discovered quite early by writers and artists.
Behind the bamboo grove near the bridge is the former residence of Fang Lingru, a celebrated female poet and the first president of the Zhejiang Federation of Literary and Art Circles. Fang moved to Hangzhou in 1958 and lived in the village ever since. She described her countryside life pleasantly in her prose, "The silent countryside, along with the sound of converging creeks and the winds caressing the trees, calms me down comfortably."
The Chinese Writers Association bought Building No.1 in the village in 1955 and designated it as a guest house and studio for its members. The building was reconstructed in 1988 and has received nearly 1,000 writers since then. Ba Jin, the late famous Chinese writer, stayed in the building four times even after he had reached 80 years old. His comment "here is my home" is engraved on a stone in front of the building.
Compared with the rapid development in the city, the infrastructure and sanitation of the somehow isolated village was gradually left behind.
In 2006, the city government decided to renovate the area, upgrading the infrastructure and reconstructing residential villas. After the renovation, the area was restored to the simple but elegant style living up to its glorious past.
However, the location of the bridge was not marked on the official city map until 2009. Thanks to the low-key setting of the area, the reclusive village of Baile Bridge is still capable of offering people the tranquility of life.
Today, more and more boutique hotels, youth hostels, teahouses and restaurants, and even some companies from the creative industry are gathering in the community, adding a modern twist to the historical area.
Boasting a prime location slightly downhill from Lingyin Temple, local villagers started running family hotels quite early on. They charge 15 yuan (US$2.31) for a bed for those who want to stay near the temple in order to worship early in the morning. Nowadays, many of them are replaced by boutique hotels. The fancy hotels usually use one or two villas with six to 15 rooms decorated under different themes.
Like the atmosphere of the village, the hotels all adopt a reclusive style. Unlike most hotels, the ones here offer a more leisurely and carefree vacation rather than a simple roof over one's head. The independent villa hotels are also perfect places to rent for parties and family holidays.
Yinju Hotel, its name literally translated as seclusion, is one of the most famous hotels in the area. "I need to talk to the guests before confirming their reservation to make sure they will fit in," said Chen Chen, the hotel owner.
Restaurants as well as teahouses are within walking distance of almost every hotel. Though not many are as fancy as the hotels around them, most of the eateries are fresh and pleasant.
Chanheyuan, a Buddhism-themed restaurant near Baile Bridge, is the only high-end restaurant in the area. However, the owner-chef of the restaurant is fairly easy-going, always sharing his cooking skills and recommendations with his customers.
Changes aside, traces of local and traditional countryside life can still be found everywhere in the village. Buddhist shrines are among the residential buildings and every now and then, local villagers gather together to chant Buddhist canons. The tea plantations, still green and prosperous, are not only a major source of livelihood, but also a great attraction symbolizing the idyllic life of the busy working people.
On the way from Hangzhou's scenic West Lake to its religious resort Lingyin Temple, one must pass by Baile Bridge. For most travelers, the small bridge, hidden in the vast idyllic area, is easily ignored, as is the village the bridge is connected to. However, once one has walked across the bridge and set foot in the village, the tranquility as well as the history of the residential area can be hard to forget.
The bridge is also known as Wanfo Bridge, literally translated as Ten Thousand Buddha Bridge. It was said to have been built during the Tang Dynasty (618-907) by the mayor and poet Bai Juyi. The actual bridge that stands today however was rebuilt in 1904. It is a single-arch stone bridge, 14.8-meters long and 3.7-meters wide, with a simple elegant style. Two creeks, running from different directions, converge under the bridge.
South of Baile Bridge is Baile village, which was formed in the 1950s. Today, there are some 400 households registered in the residential area. Most of them rely on the local tea plantation for their livelihood.
Enjoying a great view and location, the village was discovered quite early by writers and artists.
Behind the bamboo grove near the bridge is the former residence of Fang Lingru, a celebrated female poet and the first president of the Zhejiang Federation of Literary and Art Circles. Fang moved to Hangzhou in 1958 and lived in the village ever since. She described her countryside life pleasantly in her prose, "The silent countryside, along with the sound of converging creeks and the winds caressing the trees, calms me down comfortably."
The Chinese Writers Association bought Building No.1 in the village in 1955 and designated it as a guest house and studio for its members. The building was reconstructed in 1988 and has received nearly 1,000 writers since then. Ba Jin, the late famous Chinese writer, stayed in the building four times even after he had reached 80 years old. His comment "here is my home" is engraved on a stone in front of the building.
Compared with the rapid development in the city, the infrastructure and sanitation of the somehow isolated village was gradually left behind.
In 2006, the city government decided to renovate the area, upgrading the infrastructure and reconstructing residential villas. After the renovation, the area was restored to the simple but elegant style living up to its glorious past.
However, the location of the bridge was not marked on the official city map until 2009. Thanks to the low-key setting of the area, the reclusive village of Baile Bridge is still capable of offering people the tranquility of life.
Today, more and more boutique hotels, youth hostels, teahouses and restaurants, and even some companies from the creative industry are gathering in the community, adding a modern twist to the historical area.
Boasting a prime location slightly downhill from Lingyin Temple, local villagers started running family hotels quite early on. They charge 15 yuan (US$2.31) for a bed for those who want to stay near the temple in order to worship early in the morning. Nowadays, many of them are replaced by boutique hotels. The fancy hotels usually use one or two villas with six to 15 rooms decorated under different themes.
Like the atmosphere of the village, the hotels all adopt a reclusive style. Unlike most hotels, the ones here offer a more leisurely and carefree vacation rather than a simple roof over one's head. The independent villa hotels are also perfect places to rent for parties and family holidays.
Yinju Hotel, its name literally translated as seclusion, is one of the most famous hotels in the area. "I need to talk to the guests before confirming their reservation to make sure they will fit in," said Chen Chen, the hotel owner.
Restaurants as well as teahouses are within walking distance of almost every hotel. Though not many are as fancy as the hotels around them, most of the eateries are fresh and pleasant.
Chanheyuan, a Buddhism-themed restaurant near Baile Bridge, is the only high-end restaurant in the area. However, the owner-chef of the restaurant is fairly easy-going, always sharing his cooking skills and recommendations with his customers.
Changes aside, traces of local and traditional countryside life can still be found everywhere in the village. Buddhist shrines are among the residential buildings and every now and then, local villagers gather together to chant Buddhist canons. The tea plantations, still green and prosperous, are not only a major source of livelihood, but also a great attraction symbolizing the idyllic life of the busy working people.
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