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Coffee houses give Hangzhou a stylish twist

TEA houses are traditional and brand name coffee houses flourish throughout the city of Hangzhou. But there are now some exciting and classy options. Nancy Zhang raises a cup of cheer

Hangzhou's leisurely pace and lakeside views have made it a prime spot for teahouses - a traditional Chinese way to relax. But the same environment is also perfect for the cafe culture which has burgeoned over the last few years in the city.

As with designer brands and five-star hotels, big brand Western cafe chains have moved to Hangzhou. Starbucks and Costa can be seen downtown everywhere, particularly on prime spots along West Lake's northeastern shore.

But there are smaller, more interesting and unique coffee shops all around the city if you look. They are tucked into side streets and are not found readily in the well-known areas alongside the lake.

Many of these have artistic themes such as photography, cinema or literature as well as inspiring decors, and are a great alternative to teahouses. Here are some highlights.

On a tiny street off Nanshan Road, the Fotoyard Cafe is easy to miss even if you are looking for it. But judging by the number of Western customers there, it is an expat favorite. Opened two years ago by a group of four photography enthusiasts, the place is decorated with photographs from their far-flung travels. The decor is bohemian, with ethnic patterns and bright orange and yellow cushions set against wooden furniture. Photography magazines line the walls and photographic exhibitions are regular events here. Its location is very quiet and close to the lake (though not overlooking it) and there's a pleasant outdoor patio to enjoy the sun.

Nanshan Road is the place to go for coffee shops. The location is great - hugging West Lake's southeastern shore. It is still downtown but less crowded and commercialized than Hubin Road. It is also where the Chinese Academy of Art is situated and several cafes in the area have been inspired by art.

Inside the Art Academy courtyard there is the La Varza Cafe. It's not easy to find but getting lost inside the academy is a wonderful experience in itself. The cafe is decorated in a mix of artistic styles ranging from Chinese classical paintings to pop art and, silk-screened tabletops. The coffee however is authentic Italian style.

Laodong Road runs parallel to Nanshan Road and is the place to view and buy local art with its plethora of galleries. The Destiny Lounge Cafe is a tiny place nestled among the art shops, with a quaint, cozy atmosphere. It is a good place to unwind after a day sightseeing on Laodong Road or in nearby Hefeng Old Street.

Coffee and literature

The newly opened Third Movement Cafe on Liuyang Road is noteworthy for the view from its windows. It is in a rare patch of old Hangzhou that is yet to make way for new developments and while sipping coffee you can watch old people chatting and going about their business. The decor is young and funky, with comfortable leather chairs and cheap coffees (12 yuan/US$1.76). The owner plans to put on art exhibitions and have occasional movie nights.

Coffee and literature traditionally go together - JK Rowling apparently wrote most of her Harry Potter books holed up in Edinburgh's cafes. Hangzhou can be similarly inspiring with several places to borrow or buy a book while sipping an espresso. The Innocent Age Book Bar on Wensan Road W. is one example. Owners say famous Chinese writers and calligraphy masters have visited here and left examples. English corners are also held regularly if you want to make local friends. The Qingtong Art Bookstore on Tongpu Road is another. Combining a bookstore and a cafe offers an intimate setting for literary fans.

It wouldn't be Hangzhou without lakeside views, and the Fifty/Fifty Cafe is ideally situated on the Yanggong Causeway. The architecture features a renovated garden corridor, and the turns and twists of the corridor create some great private areas. Though it is situated by the lake, it is not the most commercial part of the lake shore and peace and quiet can still be found here.

Last but certainly not least is the Me Too Cafe, a little out of the way on Lishui Road. It has been gaining popularity among locals and expats alike. Located inside a creative hub, and founded by a group of designers and arty types, it has very hip credentials. The decor reflects that and so do the indie rock nights. Tomorrow's edition of Shanghai Daily features the Me Too Cafe and the people behind it in more depth.

Editor's pick

Fotoyard

Address: 101-3 Nanshan Rd

Tel: (0571) 8577-7788

Hours: 10:30am-midnight

La Varza, Academy of Art branch

Address: Bldg 3, China Academy of Art, 218 Nanshan Rd

Tel: (0571) 8716-4843

Hours: 9:30am-midnight

Third Movement Cafe

Address: 16 Liuying Rd

Tel: (0571) 8713-1616

Hours: 11am-midnight

Destiny Lounge

Address: 130-1 Laodong Rd

Tel: 137-5716-6569

Hours: 11:30am-midnight

Fifty/Fifty Cafe & Cigar

Address: 23 Yanggong Causeway

Tel: (0571) 8797-7779

Hours: 10:30am-9pm

Innocent Age Book Bar

Address: 29 Wensan Rd W.

Tel: (0571) 8796-8178

Hours: 10am-2am

Me Too Cafe

Address: 166 Lishui Rd

Tel: (0571) 8801-9967

Hours: 9am-1am


 

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