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Culture far from madding crowd
October 19, 2009, Monday
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THOUGH also crawling with tourists, Hangzhou with its vast lake and nearby hills makes for a breath of fresh air and a great place for expatriates who are living in Shanghai to visit to get a more traditional Chinese experience.
Though only an-hour-and-a-half train ride from Shanghai, the air in Hangzhou seems cleaner, the sun is brighter and the culture makes you feel you really are in China rather than a multi-cultural metropolis. With that of course comes less English speakers. If you thought Shanghai had its difficulties, you had better pack your Mandarin phrase book when you head to Hangzhou.
Though the community may not understand you, they are willing to help, which makes for great cultural interaction as well as a sightseeing trip. Allow plenty of time to see all the sights too as at almost every turn you will be greeted by shy locals wanting to try out their English, or braver ones asking to have a photo taken with you.
Though you might become a tourist attraction yourself, Hangzhou offers much for its foreign visitors in return. Two days should be enough to cover most of the city's attractions.
Day 1
There is no better start on your first day than to explore what Hangzhou is most famous for - the West Lake. You will not be the only one as many tourists can be found on guided tours around the lake. However, if you want to escape the crowds and the annoying ongoing music of the tourist buses, take your time to enjoy the water and gardens around it by discovering it by bike.
Though some bike rentals seem to have more complicated procedures than others, they are widely available and provide the opportunity to stop at places where the view strikes you the most.
To stretch your legs, take a break at the recently rebuilt Leifeng Pagoda where an elevator can bring you to the top for stunning views. Shortening your route is possible through the causeways, bridges and islands connected to the mainland by regular boat trips.
Enjoying the sunset at the lake is the perfect zaijian (good-bye) to the West Lake before heading to Gaoyin Road - the restaurant strip - where you can fill up with a variety of dishes.
From here it is only a short walk to the parallel Hefang Old Street, a pedestrian area offering all kinds of souvenirs. If you are up for some more shopping, ask one of the rickshaw riders to bring you to the corner of Huixing and Renhe roads, where the Wushan Night Market is.
In this city known for its artistic creations, the stand with uniquely designed silk umbrellas makes you almost wish it would start raining so you could show off your new purchase. But don't be surprised to pay as much as five to eight times what you're used to as the shopkeepers are tough bargainers.
Day 2
To fully appreciate the landscape in Hangzhou, almost a full afternoon should be dedicated to the Lingyin Temple (Temple of Soul's Retreat).
The entrance is initially disappointing, lined with stores brimming with tacky yet overpriced merchandise before you get to the jostling ticket booth.
But it is worth it once you are through the gates. The shady walk up to the temple follows a winding stream at the base of a cliff named Fei Lai Feng, or Peak Flown from Afar. The cliff is etched with ancient Buddhist carvings, including the Laughing Buddha.
The entrance to the temple is easy to find - just follow the hordes of people or rely on the smell and smoke coming from the bundles of incense. Faced with the 24-meter-high gold statue, even those not religious could not help but feel awe and appreciation for the dominating figure.
Occasionally a monk passes by the throng of tourists, a scene seemingly in contrast to the point of the serene lifestyle desired. It is a rewarding effort to hike up the North Peak afterward. Far fewer tourists travel here and for those who do, a breathtaking view over Hangzhou and the West Lake awaits. But you won't see the West Lake in all its glory until you see it at night. Take a visit to the lake in the evening to absorb the magical charm of the musical "Impressions of West Lake."
The lake assumes a new aura as actors and dancers seem to float and the trees and nearby pagodas come to life, leaving an unforgettable impression.
How to get there
Direct trains run between Shanghai South Railway Station and Hangzhou at regular intervals. Reserve tickets in advance, especially if you plan on travelling in peak season.
Once arrived in Hangzhou, do not be surprised to end up in a long queue waiting for a taxi. It can easily take more than half an hour. If you need to get to Hangzhou's train station during rush hour on your return trip, be sure to reserve a taxi one day in advance or risk missing your ride home.
Where to stay
Hangzhou is all about the West Lake and staying close to it is a must for every traveler. For those on a light budget, there are several good hostels available. The West Lake Youth Hostel is located within easy reach of the southeast corner of the lake and the rooms are clean and spacious. However, make sure not to be reallocated to a hotel "just in the backyard" which is actually at a 15-minute drive outside of the city center.
The name "hotel" is an overstatement for this house guarded by a dog, where no English is spoken and cockroaches are your uninvited guests.
With its perfect location at the east side of the lake and within walking distance of the historic center, the Mingtown Youth Hostel therefore provides a preferable and more convenient alternative.
For travelers on a higher budget, Shangri-La Hotel Hangzhou, located in a quiet and peaceful environment, or the Zhejiang Xizi Hotel, near the Leifeng Pagoda and offering a unique Oriental style - are recommended.
Though only an-hour-and-a-half train ride from Shanghai, the air in Hangzhou seems cleaner, the sun is brighter and the culture makes you feel you really are in China rather than a multi-cultural metropolis. With that of course comes less English speakers. If you thought Shanghai had its difficulties, you had better pack your Mandarin phrase book when you head to Hangzhou.
Though the community may not understand you, they are willing to help, which makes for great cultural interaction as well as a sightseeing trip. Allow plenty of time to see all the sights too as at almost every turn you will be greeted by shy locals wanting to try out their English, or braver ones asking to have a photo taken with you.
Though you might become a tourist attraction yourself, Hangzhou offers much for its foreign visitors in return. Two days should be enough to cover most of the city's attractions.
Day 1
There is no better start on your first day than to explore what Hangzhou is most famous for - the West Lake. You will not be the only one as many tourists can be found on guided tours around the lake. However, if you want to escape the crowds and the annoying ongoing music of the tourist buses, take your time to enjoy the water and gardens around it by discovering it by bike.
Though some bike rentals seem to have more complicated procedures than others, they are widely available and provide the opportunity to stop at places where the view strikes you the most.
To stretch your legs, take a break at the recently rebuilt Leifeng Pagoda where an elevator can bring you to the top for stunning views. Shortening your route is possible through the causeways, bridges and islands connected to the mainland by regular boat trips.
Enjoying the sunset at the lake is the perfect zaijian (good-bye) to the West Lake before heading to Gaoyin Road - the restaurant strip - where you can fill up with a variety of dishes.
From here it is only a short walk to the parallel Hefang Old Street, a pedestrian area offering all kinds of souvenirs. If you are up for some more shopping, ask one of the rickshaw riders to bring you to the corner of Huixing and Renhe roads, where the Wushan Night Market is.
In this city known for its artistic creations, the stand with uniquely designed silk umbrellas makes you almost wish it would start raining so you could show off your new purchase. But don't be surprised to pay as much as five to eight times what you're used to as the shopkeepers are tough bargainers.
Day 2
To fully appreciate the landscape in Hangzhou, almost a full afternoon should be dedicated to the Lingyin Temple (Temple of Soul's Retreat).
The entrance is initially disappointing, lined with stores brimming with tacky yet overpriced merchandise before you get to the jostling ticket booth.
But it is worth it once you are through the gates. The shady walk up to the temple follows a winding stream at the base of a cliff named Fei Lai Feng, or Peak Flown from Afar. The cliff is etched with ancient Buddhist carvings, including the Laughing Buddha.
The entrance to the temple is easy to find - just follow the hordes of people or rely on the smell and smoke coming from the bundles of incense. Faced with the 24-meter-high gold statue, even those not religious could not help but feel awe and appreciation for the dominating figure.
Occasionally a monk passes by the throng of tourists, a scene seemingly in contrast to the point of the serene lifestyle desired. It is a rewarding effort to hike up the North Peak afterward. Far fewer tourists travel here and for those who do, a breathtaking view over Hangzhou and the West Lake awaits. But you won't see the West Lake in all its glory until you see it at night. Take a visit to the lake in the evening to absorb the magical charm of the musical "Impressions of West Lake."
The lake assumes a new aura as actors and dancers seem to float and the trees and nearby pagodas come to life, leaving an unforgettable impression.
How to get there
Direct trains run between Shanghai South Railway Station and Hangzhou at regular intervals. Reserve tickets in advance, especially if you plan on travelling in peak season.
Once arrived in Hangzhou, do not be surprised to end up in a long queue waiting for a taxi. It can easily take more than half an hour. If you need to get to Hangzhou's train station during rush hour on your return trip, be sure to reserve a taxi one day in advance or risk missing your ride home.
Where to stay
Hangzhou is all about the West Lake and staying close to it is a must for every traveler. For those on a light budget, there are several good hostels available. The West Lake Youth Hostel is located within easy reach of the southeast corner of the lake and the rooms are clean and spacious. However, make sure not to be reallocated to a hotel "just in the backyard" which is actually at a 15-minute drive outside of the city center.
The name "hotel" is an overstatement for this house guarded by a dog, where no English is spoken and cockroaches are your uninvited guests.
With its perfect location at the east side of the lake and within walking distance of the historic center, the Mingtown Youth Hostel therefore provides a preferable and more convenient alternative.
For travelers on a higher budget, Shangri-La Hotel Hangzhou, located in a quiet and peaceful environment, or the Zhejiang Xizi Hotel, near the Leifeng Pagoda and offering a unique Oriental style - are recommended.
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