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April 15, 2013

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Home » City specials » Hangzhou

Dipping in to West Lake's scenic delights

INCREDIBLE as it may seem today, Hangzhou's famed picturesque West Lake could have disappeared after the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) because people believed its beauty had lulled emperors into easy living and made them reluctant to try to reclaim former territories.

Only in the 16th century was it restored, thanks to renowned Hangzhou Mayor Yang Mengying.

A landmark of Hangzhou since olden times, the lake functioned as the entertaining center for the extravagant royal family, when the city was the capital during the Southern Song period, after the Song court lost control of northern China to the Kin Dynasty and retreated south of the Yangtze River.

Emperors of the time were criticized for making little attempt to get the northern China back, which people in later periods attributed to several reasons - including them becoming beguiled by the West Lake.

As a result the West Lake was neglected: silt deposits built up, areas were filled in and cultivated, while elsewhere plant life was left to grow untended.

This situation continued for more than 300 years until Mayor Yang Mengying, during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), decided to take action. By this time most of the lake had disappeared.

Yang was determined to restore the West Lake to its former glories and prevailed over dissenting voices in seeking permission from the court.

Given the go ahead, in 1508, Yang had the lake dredged, the fields cleared and flooded and aquatic vegetation controlled.

For five months, workers toiled away, piling the dredged sludge and water weeds into a 3.4-kilometer causeway at the west of the West Lake.

The causeway connects the southwest and northwest West Lake. People call it Yanggong Causeway - Mr Yang's Causeway.

It is one of three main causeways on the West Lake, the others being Su Causeway, built by Su Dongpo (1037-1101), a great scholar in Chinese history, and Bai Causeway.

The causeways connect many scenic sites, and offer the ideal location for a pleasant stroll or cycle. Shanghai Daily picks four scenic sites that should be included in a trip.

Turtle Pool(?ú1êì?)

Turtle Pool, west of Yanggong Causeway, is a small wetland, that is still a tranquil space because as newly opened area, few people venture there.

It had existed for centuries after Yang Mengying dredged the lake, but became silted up again. In 2010, the Hangzhou government decided to restore the area around Yanggong Causeway.

The wetland was carefully restored and expanded, so that West Lake's water surface area grew from 5.6 to 6.5 square kilometers.

It got its name because a slope beside the pool looks like a turtle.

Since most of this area is a wetland, visitors can find secluded pools and wildlife different from other parts of the lake.

Address: Opposite Yu Qian Temple

Tel: (0571) 8572-6550

Admission: Free

Guo's Garden

The garden near the scenic Lotus in the Breeze at the Crooked Courtyard has beautiful views combining natural landscape and historical architecture. It has preserved in its original form, without expansion or renovation.

Among all the jiangnan (regions south of the lower reaches of Yangtze River) gardens, the one here - Guo's Garden - is most representative of a private garden in Hangzhou.

It was built during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) by a silk merchant called Song Duanfu. Then Guo Shilin from Fenyang, Shanxi Province, bought the garden residence and gave it his family name.

Covering almost 10,000 square meters, the garden has a pavilion in the center and is divided into two parts - Jingbiju and Jingkaitian. The first means "house of tranquility" and the second "mirror-like pond area."

Jingbiju was where guests were entertained, while Jingkaitian was for relaxation.

Since ancient Chinese people believed that water brought life and vigor, the garden contains a large pond covering half of the total area.

It was a place to refresh and meditate, and visitors can still walk around the pond and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere.

Though not as magnificent as royal gardens, Guo's Garden is still exquisite and elegant. It is meticulously arranged, so that the stones and rock formations are in harmony with the pond.

Address: 15 Xishan Road

Tel: (0571) 8798-6026

Admission: 30 yuan (US$4.3)

Flower Garden

Opposite the Lotus in the Breeze at Crooked Courtyard, Flower Garden is not as popular as Taiziwan Park or the traditional Hangzhou Botanical Garden. However, it is their equal flowers and plants.

The garden was established in 1954, for producing, collecting and conserving many kinds of flowers and bonsai specimens. Today, it has around 200 species of flowers.

Orchids are a specialty of the garden, with different varieties blossoming each season. And it's something of an understatement to say the garden is a kaleidoscope of color at the moment - it's a mass of white, pink, yellow, magenta and orange blooms.

Recommendations for flower fans include the magnolias near the east gate and the bonsai area, where golden primroses and pink begonia flowers add to the spring atmosphere.

Address: 14 Xishan Road

Tel:(0571) 8882-4596

Admission: Free

Lotus in the Breeze at the Crooked Courtyard

As the name suggests, this is a prime place for admiring lotus flowers. And while the summer blooms have not yet arrived, the area nestled at the northwest of the lake is full of green spring growth and that's still worth a look.

One of the Ten Scenes of the West Lake, Lotus in the Breeze at Crooked Courtyard dates from the Song Dynasty (960-1279) and was named by Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty.

Since 1980, it has been reconstructed and expanded several times and now spreads over 28.3 hectares. Today, it contains four lotus display areas, including Guyi Garden, where visitors can view the giant king lotus variety and read poems about the beautiful aquatic flowers.

Even without the lotus blooms, walking over the traditional wooden and stone bridges and taking a break in tradition pavilions makes for a pleasant excursion. In summer, the area is filled with elegant color, with pink, white and red lotus varieties, plus unusual varieties such as Bingdilian, which is characterized by two flowers on a single stalk.

Address: 89 Beishan Road

Tel: (0571) 8717-9603

Admission: Free




 

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