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Dodging the fuss and buzz around the West Lake
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SPRING is the best season to visit scenic Hangzhou, but the beautiful weather comes with some side effects. When the city’s trees and flowers start to bloom and a warm breeze sweeps through the city, traffic is at its worst. Around the West Lake, vehicles are backed up, and on particularly nice days, they hardly move.
When all the streets are clogged, how can you avoid spending much of your trip waiting in a cab for traffic to move on?
Staying in a hotel or hostel in walking distance of the lake is one option, as is renting a bike.
The city is constantly expanding its already extensive public bike rental network, and return spots dot the city. For a deposit of 300 yuan (US$46) you can rent one of the orange bikes and zigzag through the congested streets.
Besides the obvious benefits of renting a bike — you get to enjoy the nice spring weather and avoid traffic jams by being physically active — you also save some money. Renting a bike for one hour is free.
Two hours costs one yuan, and three hours cost two yuan.
And when it comes to the best accommodation for dodging the crowds and traffic jams, Shanghai Daily got you covered — this week, we’ve listed the best places to stay if you’re looking for some serenity.
Baileqiao is even farther west of the West Lake. There’s little tourism here, but cars still block the roads as many head through this town on their way to nearby Lingyin Temple, one of the most well-known Buddhist temples in the country.
But the town, hidden in the lush vegetation of Beigao Hill, was so small that the Hangzhou government didn’t even put the village on maps until 2009.
Today, there’s plenty of hostels, restaurants and cafes. In fact, coming out from the side door of Lingyin Temple, it’s easy to miss Baileqiao as it lies a little secluded behind trees.
If your travel itinerary includes Lingyin Temple or some hiking, staying in Baileqiao is ideal. The town got a facelift a few years ago and now features dozens of white and black houses, many of them small hostels, family inns and restaurants.
Food options range from low-budget noodles to high-end Japanese restaurants. A-plus (鑺遍棿浜) and Mu Mu Ting (鏈ㄦ湪浜) offer Chinese and Japanese dishes and fusion cooking, but expect to pay between 200 yuan (US$30.72) and 300 yuan for a nice dinner here.
Metoo Cafe (铚滄鍜栧暋) is not only a popular local cafe but also a boutique hotel with only five rooms starting at 680 yuan per night. If you are looking to stay here on a weekend, we recommend you book at least a month in advance.
If you haven’t been to Maojiabu Village, you should definitely go, even if it gets a little busy.
Located to the west of lake, the village is home to Longjing tea, one of the most famous and expensive of all Chinese green teas.
Traffic gets dense here, but that’s mostly due to windy road with only two lanes. To not get stuck in traffic, we suggest you just check in at one of the hotels here. Hotels in or near the village include the Zhejiang Hotel, Four Seasons Hangzhou, and West Lake State Guest House. There are also dozens of hostels and boutique hotels, and booking in advance is advised.
Strolling through the village is a relaxing experience because you pass tea bushes, weed groves and small creeks.
Head to Meiling Road N., a long road that, including the many lanes around it, is home to more than 20 restaurants and teahouses — all feature a garden or at least tables outdoors.
We recommend She and He’s (濂瑰煄鏈変粬), a chic vintage restaurant; Luma Restaurant (鏃呴┈) which offers local Hangzhou dishes and fusion cuisine; Tempus Fugit (鎷惧勾), a vintage restaurant with a very large garden or Mirror Restaurant and Lounge (寮ラ箍椁愬巺), a fusion restaurant with a garden and lots of French windows.
Public bike spots are located along Longjing Road and Meiling Road N.
Long Xiao Qiao is the Metro stop closest to the West Lake, just about 300 meters from the northeast bank. It’s one of the busiest stops in the city, but, thankfully, there’s plenty of hotels around that will save you from squeezing into the crowded subway. The Hyatt Regency Hangzhou Hotel, Chaptel (which belongs to Relais and Chateaux), and Overseas Chinese Hotel, as well as boutique hotels Lanvade and some express hotels are located here.
For a taste of some great Hangzhou food, head to Zhi Wei Guan Restaurant (鐭ュ懗瑙) on Renhe Road. Founded in 1913, the restaurant flaunts its splendid history by dishing up local delicacies and snacks, ranging from wonton soup and xiaolongbao (small steamed buns), to noodles and desserts and lip-smacking dim sum.
The first floor is reserved for snacks, while the second floor is a full-on restaurant. Traditional dishes from the area, such as West Lake fish in vinegar gravy, Longjing tea shrimp, Beggar’s chicken, West Lake water shield soup and Zhi Wei Guan’s steamed buns are served here. Located south of the subway stop’s C exit you will find Hangzhou Restaurant锛堟澀宸為厭瀹), which was founded in 1921 and rebuilt a few years ago.
The restaurant featuring both chic and traditional decor offers local dishes at great value, including some dishes found in recipe collections written 1,000 years ago.
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