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Finding classic Beijing fare in Hangzhou eateries
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PRESENT-DAY Beijing fare is based on the fundamentals of Shandong, royal court and Halal cuisines. Shandong cuisine combines some of the features of both northern and southern China and is considered the origin of Beijing cuisine. Today, these two areas still share similar food characteristics.
Since the Liao (916-1125) and Yuan (1271-1368) dynasties, which were ruled by minority ethnic groups, Mongolians, Manchu people and Muslims flocked to Beijing and brought along with their culinary skills and treats. Diners can still detect some minority features, especially Halal food, in current Beijing cuisine.
During recent years, along with the influx of people from other provinces, Beijing food has integrated more characteristics from around China. Nonetheless, what distinguishes Beijing cuisine from other Chinese food is the royal court fare.
In the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties, dozens of emperors lived in the Forbidden City. A special kitchen attached to the imperial palace prepared more than 100 dishes for these feudal dynasty dictators for every meal.
Food materials and seasonings were rigidly stipulated to ensure the food security and ample nutrition for the royal family. Moreover, fresh tributes from other provinces were delivered day and night to the palace to flatter the emperors and their concubines.
In addition to the luxurious dishes, royal court cuisine was also characterized by the finest tableware, including silver or gold chopsticks and spoons and delicate porcelain bowls and plates. The dignity and supremacy of imperial family was reflected by these unparalleled food and utensils.
Today, some luxury restaurants in Beijing serve the authentic royal court cuisine with high prices.
Although the upscale food is beyond ordinary guests’ ability to pay, other Beijing common delights like Peking duck and deep-fired tripe are available for common people.
A batch of Beijing restaurants have opened in Hangzhou, bringing that faraway capital flavor to Hangzhou foodies. Shanghai Daily recommends three classic Beijing dishes and suggests where to eat in Hangzhou.
Peking duck
This quintessential Beijing dish came into being in the Ming Dynasty. The first Ming emperor set the capital in Nanjing, Jiangsu Province, where there was a local specialty called Nanjing roasted duck.
Later, when the dynasty moved to Beijing, a group of Nanjing chefs were taken to the new capital to continue cooking for the royal court. They found the local Beijing ducks were tenderer, tastier and more suitable to be roasted than the Nanjing ones. Soon the Peking duck replaced the Nanjing duck and won imperial rulers’ favor.
The skin of the Peking duck tastes crisp while the meat savors into fragrance and tenderness. To keep the duck succulent and mellow, chefs use only fruitwood to roast them.
The cook slices the duck in front of the diners. The common way to eat the duck is to wrap the duck meat, scallion and cucumber slices and sweet bean sauce with a thin pancake. Sometimes pickled radish is also inside, and other sauces (like hoisin sauce) can be used.
Where to eat:
• Quan Ju De
Address: 451 Qiutao Rd N.
Tel: (0571) 8571-7777
• Huang Fan’er
Address: 865 Jiangcheng Rd
Tel: (0571) 8781-0078
Lu Zhu Huo Shao
Lu zhu huo shao is a noted Beijing dish you can eat in various locales — from sumptuous restaurants to roadside food stalls in Beijing.
It is composed of pig’s tripe, lung and intestine, tofu curds and a wheaten cake boiled in broth. After hours of simmering, seasonings including garlic sauce, fermented tofu sauce, caraway, vinegar and chili oil are added. Finally, the dish turns out savory and aromatic.
Lu zhu huo shao was derived from a famous dish named su zao rou that was devised for emperors in the late Qing Dynasty. Nine herbs and quality pork were needed to cook the royal court dish. Folks desired to sample it but could not afford the pork. They replaced the pork with cheap pig’s organ meat. Lu zhu huo shao met ordinary people’s need for meat in hard times.
Where to eat:
• Dong Lai Shun
Address: 488 Qingtai Str
Tel: (0571) 8782-0666
Mutton hotpot
When Kublai Khan (the fifth khan of the Mongol Empire) of the Yuan Dynasty started on an expedition in southern China, he yearned for Mongolian stewed mutton. To satisfy the emperor’s craving, chefs quickly slaughtered a goat and began to cook.
But there was a report of the enemy approaching, leaving no time for the mutton to be boiled. Knowing Kublai’s hot temper, the chefs immediately sliced the mutton as thin as a piece of paper, then dipped the meat slices into the boiling water. Within a very short time, the mutton slices cooked. The chefs quickly topped the mutton with a handful of seasonings and served it to Kublai Khan. Unexpectedly, Kublai greatly appreciated the dish.
But it did not become popular until the Qing Dynasty, when a Beijing eatery owner got the recipe of the mutton hotpot from a eunuch (imperial palace servant) on the sly. Since then, the dish has made frequent appearances on Beijing citizens’ tables.
Where to eat:
• Wangsan Hotpot
Address: No. 67, Zhubuli, 400 Shaoxing Rd
Tel: 180-7280-1777
• Ji Yi Shun Beijing Mutton Hotpot
Address: C16-17 Shengli River Food Street, Xiawan Lane
Tel: 137-7747-3245
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