Advanced Search

The story appears on

Page B10

April 10, 2014

GET this page in PDF

Free for subscribers

View shopping cart

Related News

Home » City specials » Hangzhou

Finding hearty northeastern fare in Hangzhou

By Wu Huixin | April 10, 2014, Thursday | Print Edition

NOTHING could be more different from delicate southern Chinese cuisine than simple, hearty northeastern fare served in large portions in big bowls.

But food from northeast China is increasingly popular in other regions and you can even taste its most basic dishes in Hangzhou, famous for its refined Jiangnan (south of the Yangtze River) cooking.

Many basic northern dishes originated in Manchu cooking. Because of the long, harsh winters and short growing season, pickled vegetables and preserved meats are popular. Wheat, not rice, is the staple grain, and noodles and steamed buns are common.

Chinese from the northeast are characterized as straightforward, generous and passionate, and their fare is similar, often served in big bowls without delicate arrangement on plates.

The region includes Heilongjiang, Jilin and Liaoning provinces and the eastern part of the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region. Shengyang, the provincial capital of Liaoning, was the capital of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) for many years and today northern-style imperial court cuisine can still be found.

Around half the region is forested, and there are also vast plains, broad rivers and mountains. Produce is abundant, though the growing season is relatively short. Wheat, corn, various grains and soybeans are grown.

Northeastern cooking also combined aspects of nomadic fare, such as grilled mutton and other meats.

Russian influence is strong in Heilongjiang, which borders Russia. The provincial capital Harbin has been called the Oriental Russia and Russian fare is available. Northeastern fare also draws from Russian cooking.

Shanghai Daily identifies three classic northeastern dishes and the restaurants where you can sample them.

Chicken simmered with mushroom

This dish is very typical. When newlyweds visited the bride’s home, her parents used to treat their son-in-law with this dish. It later became customary throughout the region to serve this dish to guests.

The essence lies in the distinctive zhenmo mushrooms that cannot be effectively cultivated and only exists in the wild. The chicken is free-range.

Chicken and mushrooms are simmered for a long time in a crockery pot because the clay is chemically inert and does not introduce chemicals into the broth and contents, even at high temperatures. It tastes, and smells very mellow.

Where to eat:

Gu Lan Xuan Restaurant

Address: 99 Jingzhou Rd

Tel: (0571) 8897-3285

The dish originated in Sichuan Province but was introduced to northeastern China during the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907). It soon became popular and was adapted to regional tastes.

The dish became famous after a hit song named “Northeast People Are Living Lei Feng,” referring to a model, selfless soldier in the 1960s. The dish is mentioned in the lyrics.

It is now featured on menus throughout northeastern restaurants.

First, pork is sauteed with pickled vegetable, then water is added to make a soup or stew. Finally noodles made from sweet potato are added and cooked for a few minutes.

Where to eat:

Liu Laogen Northeast Restaurant

Address: 72 Hong Zhong Yuan, Jianggan Ave

Tel: (0571) 8662-8621

Sauteed pork coated with cornstarch

In the early 20th century, Russians living in Harbin couldn’t get used to the heavy, salty flavor of the regional Chinese cooking. So a chef named Zhang Xingwen created this sweet and sour dish for the Russian palate, and it caught on.

The pork is coated with a mixture of water, condiments and cornstarch and then deep-fried twice. Then it was topped with tomato sauce.

Where to eat:

Northeast Hometown Restaurant

Address: No. 25-26, Xinyi Lane

Tel: (0571) 8826-9706

Hangzhou


 

Copyright © 1999- Shanghai Daily. All rights reserved.Preferably viewed with Internet Explorer 8 or newer browsers.

沪公网安备 31010602000204号

Email this to your friend