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Finding scrumptious shengjianbao
HANGZHOU people love to eat shengjianbao - a small, pan-fried dumpling filled with pork - as much as those in Shanghai.
Shengjianbao is a common breakfast item in Shanghai as well as Hangzhou, which holds a significant place in the culture of both cities.
It is made from semi-leavened dough, filled with minced pork and gelatin made from pork skin. The "knot" of the bun, where the dough is folded together, faces downward when cooling to prevent the crispy bottom from getting soggy. Chopped green onions and sesame are sprinkled on the buns while they are being cooked.
The snack is known for its crunchy fried bottom and piping hot soup that can squirt out at diners if they're not careful.
The liquid is actually gelatin that melts when cooked.
It is very hot and can burn the mouth, so diners should let it cool a little by flipping it over on the knot, or make a hole with chopsticks to let out the steam.
In Hangzhou, shengjianbao restaurants usually provide other dishes such as wonton, vermicelli with minced beef and other items.
Some chains serve nice shengjianbao, but there are also many good "hidden" eateries that serve their own yummy versions. Shanghai Daily visits eight of them in Hangzhou.
Linji Shanghai Shengjian Restaurant
The chef and owner surnamed Lin learned the recipe from a shengjianbao restaurant in Shanghai, but he reduced the amount of sugar somewhat to suit the tastes of Hangzhou people.
For years, Lin has asked customers to make suggestions and he improves his recipe based on this feedback.
The restaurant is popular among university students and runs from 6:30am to midnight.
Address: in a lane (has no name) opposite to the back door of Zhejiang University of Technology on Desheng Road
Wanyuan Snack
The restaurant sells shengjianbao, noodles, wonton, porridge and many other breakfast foods. Still, shengjianbao sells best - some 3,000 buns are sold every day.
The restaurant is popular among locals, including some who have had breakfast here since it opened 15 years ago. It is open from 5am to 7pm, but shengjianbao are usually sold out before noon.
Address: at the entrance of Wanshouting Grocery Market on Wanshouting Road
Three-bite Shengjian
A board hanging above explains the restaurant's name - pan-fresh shengjianbao are hot, so they suggest eating it in three bites.
The first bite is to slowly nibble a tiny piece off the top to let it cool, the second bite is to suck the soup, and the last bite is to eat the whole bun.
The chef said he stews the pork skin repeatedly until it is very tender, giving the stuffing a wonderfully rich aroma.
It runs from 7am to 7pm.
Address: 37-3 Shiting Road (next to Qianjiang Market)
Xiaozhu Breakfast Restaurant
A long queue extending from the restaurant to the road can be seen every morning and the shengjianbao are sold out before noon. One piece costs only 0.4 yuan (6 US cents).
Also the baozi (Chinese type of steamed, filled bun) and youtiao (deep fried dough stick) are fast sellers.
Address: Next to Changban Lane Grocery Market on Changban Lane
Shengjian Stall (without name)
This stall runs from 6am to 10am daily. Despite only being open for four hours a day, the stall has nearly 10 staff members because of the thriving business.
The shengjianbao are small and sell for 0.4 yuan each, while wonton, noodles and soy milk are also available.
Address: 22 Xinhua Road
Master Ge's Shengjian
The chef/boss Ge, 43, has sold authentic Hangzhou-style shengjianbao since he was 16. Hangzhou-style shengjianbao means laomian (preserved dough with soda) and rapeseed oil, says Ge.
He currently runs the snack stall from 6am to midnight everyday, and four buns cost 5 yuan.
Address: No. 45 Food Market on Zhongshan Road S.
Baomei Snack Restaurant
This restaurant is open daily from 6:30am to 1:30pm and sells typical Hangzhou dim sum such as shengjianbao and small wonton.
Owner Zhao Baomei says she uses her grandfather's secret shengjianbao recipe.
Since the restaurant has been in business for 20 years, it has become something of a local meeting venue for people in the neighborhood. Expatriates can get a glimpse of how local people live.
Address: 1 Xiaohexia (Near Daxue Road)
Dingshun Snack
Dingshun Snack sells Hangzhou-style breakfast and almost everybody here orders two things - shengjianbao and wonton.
The restaurant has been in business for 25 years. Despite only selling breakfast, it is usually quite busy until 1pm, when it closes.
Address: 5-12 Huimin Road
Shengjianbao is a common breakfast item in Shanghai as well as Hangzhou, which holds a significant place in the culture of both cities.
It is made from semi-leavened dough, filled with minced pork and gelatin made from pork skin. The "knot" of the bun, where the dough is folded together, faces downward when cooling to prevent the crispy bottom from getting soggy. Chopped green onions and sesame are sprinkled on the buns while they are being cooked.
The snack is known for its crunchy fried bottom and piping hot soup that can squirt out at diners if they're not careful.
The liquid is actually gelatin that melts when cooked.
It is very hot and can burn the mouth, so diners should let it cool a little by flipping it over on the knot, or make a hole with chopsticks to let out the steam.
In Hangzhou, shengjianbao restaurants usually provide other dishes such as wonton, vermicelli with minced beef and other items.
Some chains serve nice shengjianbao, but there are also many good "hidden" eateries that serve their own yummy versions. Shanghai Daily visits eight of them in Hangzhou.
Linji Shanghai Shengjian Restaurant
The chef and owner surnamed Lin learned the recipe from a shengjianbao restaurant in Shanghai, but he reduced the amount of sugar somewhat to suit the tastes of Hangzhou people.
For years, Lin has asked customers to make suggestions and he improves his recipe based on this feedback.
The restaurant is popular among university students and runs from 6:30am to midnight.
Address: in a lane (has no name) opposite to the back door of Zhejiang University of Technology on Desheng Road
Wanyuan Snack
The restaurant sells shengjianbao, noodles, wonton, porridge and many other breakfast foods. Still, shengjianbao sells best - some 3,000 buns are sold every day.
The restaurant is popular among locals, including some who have had breakfast here since it opened 15 years ago. It is open from 5am to 7pm, but shengjianbao are usually sold out before noon.
Address: at the entrance of Wanshouting Grocery Market on Wanshouting Road
Three-bite Shengjian
A board hanging above explains the restaurant's name - pan-fresh shengjianbao are hot, so they suggest eating it in three bites.
The first bite is to slowly nibble a tiny piece off the top to let it cool, the second bite is to suck the soup, and the last bite is to eat the whole bun.
The chef said he stews the pork skin repeatedly until it is very tender, giving the stuffing a wonderfully rich aroma.
It runs from 7am to 7pm.
Address: 37-3 Shiting Road (next to Qianjiang Market)
Xiaozhu Breakfast Restaurant
A long queue extending from the restaurant to the road can be seen every morning and the shengjianbao are sold out before noon. One piece costs only 0.4 yuan (6 US cents).
Also the baozi (Chinese type of steamed, filled bun) and youtiao (deep fried dough stick) are fast sellers.
Address: Next to Changban Lane Grocery Market on Changban Lane
Shengjian Stall (without name)
This stall runs from 6am to 10am daily. Despite only being open for four hours a day, the stall has nearly 10 staff members because of the thriving business.
The shengjianbao are small and sell for 0.4 yuan each, while wonton, noodles and soy milk are also available.
Address: 22 Xinhua Road
Master Ge's Shengjian
The chef/boss Ge, 43, has sold authentic Hangzhou-style shengjianbao since he was 16. Hangzhou-style shengjianbao means laomian (preserved dough with soda) and rapeseed oil, says Ge.
He currently runs the snack stall from 6am to midnight everyday, and four buns cost 5 yuan.
Address: No. 45 Food Market on Zhongshan Road S.
Baomei Snack Restaurant
This restaurant is open daily from 6:30am to 1:30pm and sells typical Hangzhou dim sum such as shengjianbao and small wonton.
Owner Zhao Baomei says she uses her grandfather's secret shengjianbao recipe.
Since the restaurant has been in business for 20 years, it has become something of a local meeting venue for people in the neighborhood. Expatriates can get a glimpse of how local people live.
Address: 1 Xiaohexia (Near Daxue Road)
Dingshun Snack
Dingshun Snack sells Hangzhou-style breakfast and almost everybody here orders two things - shengjianbao and wonton.
The restaurant has been in business for 25 years. Despite only selling breakfast, it is usually quite busy until 1pm, when it closes.
Address: 5-12 Huimin Road
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