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Grandma still knows her way around the kitchen
By Tan Weiyun |
June 10, 2009, Wednesday
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Print Edition
Print Edition
GRANDMA'S Kitchen, a newly emerging, quickly spreading bistro chain, could be thought of as an innovator for the delicate and varied Hangzhou cuisine. Tan Weiyun takes a bite.
Hangzhou cuisine, noted for its elaborate preparation, sophisticated cooking, refreshing flavors, mellow fragrances and beautiful presentation, has well earned its reputation in the culinary world.
If Louwailou and Zhiweiguan - the two 100-year-old time-honored restaurants that tourists really must visit - represent the traditional and original flavors of Hangzhou, then Grandma's Kitchen, a newly emerging, quickly spreading bistro chain, could be thought of as an innovator for Hangzhou cuisine.
With almost 20 branches dotted around the city and outlets in Shaoxing and Jiaxing (Zhejiang Province), Wuxi (Jiangsu Province) and Beijing, Grandma's Kitchen has spread quickly around town since it opened its first branch on Macheng Road eight years ago.
Smart, minimalist decor, good service, a large menu and delicious cooking at economical prices all mean that diners who haven't made a reservation may have to wait in line and eat in the main dining area instead of in a quiet, private booth. But any delay is worth it.
Don't be surprised if you hear some of the ubiquitous Shanghai-dialect - Grandma's is famous among Shanghai locals, who are used to driving for two hours from Shanghai on weekends and became a major support for the restaurant.
Spread over 1,000 square meters with 388 seats and 20 private booths, the Macheng Road branch is the first and oldest. It is said, by Hangzhou locals and tourists, to be the one that offers the best and maintains the quality of its food among all the outlets.
One reason for Grandma's popularity is its very economical prices considering the surroundings. Just glance at the menu - 3 yuan (44 US cents) for a large bowl of Mapo Toufu (spicy bean curd), 10 yuan for a big serving of peas puree, 10 yuan for a pot of glutinous rice dumplings in fermented rice wine.
Grandma's pork is definitely the most popular dish in the restaurant. Shamelessly proud of fat as the main ingredient, the red-sauced pork has become Grandma's signature dish. Made in a traditional style, the braised pork seems just like the one your mum cooked at home, bringing diners an extra dollop of family warmth.
There is nothing special in its ingredients: ginger, scallions, soy sauce, Shaoxing rice wine and fat pork belly - all common Chinese pantry staples.
It takes a few hours to braise the pork until the fat on top steams into that wobbly silkiness that is neither solid nor liquid as the meat simmers underneath the dark liquid producing a rich broth.
The spotlight of this dish is the fat, fluffy and tender - just like cream. It melts on your tongue in seconds. Deliciously oily of course, but not greasy. Some might frown at the thought of this full-of-fat dish, but just as your mother always said when you were a picky child, "Try it, and you'll like it."
Another popular dish is chicken in green tea flavor. Hangzhou is famous for the Longjing tea and the creative Hangzhou locals invented this dish to give full play to the local green tea.
After simmering in an earthen jar for about seven hours (according to the waiter), the chicken is sprayed with tea leaves and soaked in the fragrant tea. It is so tender that the slightest touch of chopsticks can loosen the flesh.
Unlike red-braised pork, the chicken is a little bit blander, and is designed to highlight the mild and gentle tea flavors.
Fried duck is richer and heavier, another family dish popular among diners. It is first simmered gently for about 45 minutes, cooled for about half an hour and then deep-fried for five minutes until it turns golden and crisp. Served with peanuts and sprayed with thick bean paste, the duck looks very appetizing.
If you want something crisp and healthy, Grandma's pickled vegetables might be the dish. Chopped with cabbage, bean sprouts, green peppers and mushrooms, this tastes crisp and refreshing.
Sweet and soft is the key to Hangzhou cuisine and Grandma's keeps this tradition very well. green tea cake is wrapped with green tea dough with red bean paste inside. Other desserts include pumpkin soup with lily root, sesame cakes, pumpkin balls and many others.
Address: 6-1, Macheng Rd
Tel: (0571) 8805-1987
Hangzhou cuisine, noted for its elaborate preparation, sophisticated cooking, refreshing flavors, mellow fragrances and beautiful presentation, has well earned its reputation in the culinary world.
If Louwailou and Zhiweiguan - the two 100-year-old time-honored restaurants that tourists really must visit - represent the traditional and original flavors of Hangzhou, then Grandma's Kitchen, a newly emerging, quickly spreading bistro chain, could be thought of as an innovator for Hangzhou cuisine.
With almost 20 branches dotted around the city and outlets in Shaoxing and Jiaxing (Zhejiang Province), Wuxi (Jiangsu Province) and Beijing, Grandma's Kitchen has spread quickly around town since it opened its first branch on Macheng Road eight years ago.
Smart, minimalist decor, good service, a large menu and delicious cooking at economical prices all mean that diners who haven't made a reservation may have to wait in line and eat in the main dining area instead of in a quiet, private booth. But any delay is worth it.
Don't be surprised if you hear some of the ubiquitous Shanghai-dialect - Grandma's is famous among Shanghai locals, who are used to driving for two hours from Shanghai on weekends and became a major support for the restaurant.
Spread over 1,000 square meters with 388 seats and 20 private booths, the Macheng Road branch is the first and oldest. It is said, by Hangzhou locals and tourists, to be the one that offers the best and maintains the quality of its food among all the outlets.
One reason for Grandma's popularity is its very economical prices considering the surroundings. Just glance at the menu - 3 yuan (44 US cents) for a large bowl of Mapo Toufu (spicy bean curd), 10 yuan for a big serving of peas puree, 10 yuan for a pot of glutinous rice dumplings in fermented rice wine.
Grandma's pork is definitely the most popular dish in the restaurant. Shamelessly proud of fat as the main ingredient, the red-sauced pork has become Grandma's signature dish. Made in a traditional style, the braised pork seems just like the one your mum cooked at home, bringing diners an extra dollop of family warmth.
There is nothing special in its ingredients: ginger, scallions, soy sauce, Shaoxing rice wine and fat pork belly - all common Chinese pantry staples.
It takes a few hours to braise the pork until the fat on top steams into that wobbly silkiness that is neither solid nor liquid as the meat simmers underneath the dark liquid producing a rich broth.
The spotlight of this dish is the fat, fluffy and tender - just like cream. It melts on your tongue in seconds. Deliciously oily of course, but not greasy. Some might frown at the thought of this full-of-fat dish, but just as your mother always said when you were a picky child, "Try it, and you'll like it."
Another popular dish is chicken in green tea flavor. Hangzhou is famous for the Longjing tea and the creative Hangzhou locals invented this dish to give full play to the local green tea.
After simmering in an earthen jar for about seven hours (according to the waiter), the chicken is sprayed with tea leaves and soaked in the fragrant tea. It is so tender that the slightest touch of chopsticks can loosen the flesh.
Unlike red-braised pork, the chicken is a little bit blander, and is designed to highlight the mild and gentle tea flavors.
Fried duck is richer and heavier, another family dish popular among diners. It is first simmered gently for about 45 minutes, cooled for about half an hour and then deep-fried for five minutes until it turns golden and crisp. Served with peanuts and sprayed with thick bean paste, the duck looks very appetizing.
If you want something crisp and healthy, Grandma's pickled vegetables might be the dish. Chopped with cabbage, bean sprouts, green peppers and mushrooms, this tastes crisp and refreshing.
Sweet and soft is the key to Hangzhou cuisine and Grandma's keeps this tradition very well. green tea cake is wrapped with green tea dough with red bean paste inside. Other desserts include pumpkin soup with lily root, sesame cakes, pumpkin balls and many others.
Address: 6-1, Macheng Rd
Tel: (0571) 8805-1987
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