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Hangzhou dish gives mushroom a leading role
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Often the shiitake mushroom (Chinese xiang gu) is asked to play only a supporting role. It’s mashed into sauce, shredded and diced, and thrown into soups along with ginger and shallots to add flavor.
But some dishes give it a leading role — and it is a conscientious actor that does its duty proudly.
Shiitake is a harmonious ingredient in all kinds of meat and soup; and it is versatile and can easily be mashed, chopped, sauteed and boiled.
Shiitake mushrooms are common in markets and grocery stores in China. They feature dark, large caps, and are sold both fresh and dried. Immerse the dried ones in water for half an hour and they look fresh.
Today Shanghai Daily introduces two shiitake cuisines, including one that’s traditional in Hangzhou.
Fried shiitake and bamboo shoots/chao er dong
A traditional Hangzhou dish, chao er dong means “two winters fried” — winter shiitake and winter bamboo shoots.
Winter shiitake is a chubby mushroom. Winter bamboo shoots are the stout bamboo shoots in autumn and winter.
The recipe is simple. Cut off the shiitake stem, and then cut each mushroom cap into four pieces.
Peel the bamboo shoots, cut off the old part at the bottom, and then cut the tender part into cubes.
Add oil to the pan and heat to high. Stir fry the bamboo first for a minute because it takes more time to cook, then put the mushroom caps in.
In advance, make the liquid to add to the shoots and mushrooms — just enough liquid to cover the slices.
If you use dried shiitake, add the water that is used to hydrate the mushrooms. If you are not a vegetarian, use some chicken soup or other meat stock. If you are a vegetarian and you buy shiitake fresh, boil the old part of the bamboo shoot to get some stock. Add soy sauce, salt and sugar to taste.
Pour the prepared liquid into the stir-fried mixture and cook the mixture over medium heat for two minutes.
Into an average-sized rice bowl, combine equal amounts of starch and liquid, pouring that over the shoots and mushroom mixture. Turn up the heat and cook until the liquid is reduced.
This is a traditional Hangzhou dish often served during Lunar New Year’s feasts as a vegetable dish. But since winter bamboo shoots are in season now, people are preparing the dish already.
Tips: Use medium to large shiitake caps for best results; cut the bamboo shoots into sizes big enough to enjoy one piece at a time.
Steamed pork-stuffed shiitake
This dish, common throughout China, is a little unusual because the mushroom plays the leading role and also keeps its shape.
Only the stems are cut off. What we’re looking for is the mushroom’s softness, juiciness and unique aroma.
The mushroom cap is turned upside down to contain the stuffing.
Use belly pork that has fat and lean meat. Mince the pork and some carrot, combine, and fill the caps with stuffing, making sure they are full.
Steam the stuffed shiitake for 10 minutes.
Boil half a small bowl of water in a pan and add soy sauce and a bit of sugar. Pour in a spoonful of a mixture of half water and half starch. After combining the liquids, bring to a boil and pour it onto the mushroom caps. Finally, sprinkle on some cilantro and ground pepper to taste.
Tip: If you are a vegetarian, dried tofu (dou fu gan) can replace the pork. Carrots can be replaced by potatoes or leeks. The stuffed shiitake also can be pan fried for 90 seconds on each side and then roasted in an oven at 200 degrees Celsius for 12-15 minutes. The vegetarian version can be put into the oven without frying.
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