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July 30, 2012

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Home » City specials » Hangzhou

Lane with trapped fish spirit has lots to hook visitors

ONCE upon a time, Hangzhou suffered frequent floods because, as the folk tale goes, a fish spirit was creating havoc in the city waterways. The fish spirit caused so much destruction that Guanyin - a Bodhisattva - descended to Earth to help the city's residents.

In Hangzhou, Guanyin transformed herself into a vendor who made wonderful noodles. Lured by the delicious aroma of the noodles, the fish spirit turned himself into a human so that he could sample the goodies.

Night had fallen when the fish spirit emerged to get his noodles, but no sooner had he received a bowl than the noodles turned into steel bars which wrapped tight around him.

Guanyin put the trapped fish spirit in a large well, saying, "you will be freed when there's light above the well."

To prevent this happening, locals built a house above the well overnight. The well was called Da Jing - meaning large well - and the lane there is Dajing Lane.

According to historical accounts, the lane was built by an official during the Wuyue Kingdom (AD 907-978), and during the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279), the large well was divided into five smaller wells.

Today these are hidden and the house that covers them is locked.Yet visitors can still peep overthe barrier to get an idea ofwhat the wells look like.

Befitting its dramatic historic origins in the tale, Dajing Lane is a special place. It connects bustling Hefang Street, Imperial Street of the Southern Song Dynasty, Drum Tower and Zhongshan Road M. - all places full of history.

However, the traditional lane of two-story wooden structures attracts fewer visitors than its neighboring streets.

Since 2008, Dajing Lane has undergone a revamp that has seen several old buildings restored, plus some new stores built. But overall, it remains as it was during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).

Though only 200 meters long, Dajing Lane features a number of historic sites. These include Zhu Yangxin Plaster Pharmacy, which was founded more than 400 years ago and makes its products using well water, the 101-year-old Baoda Ginseng Pharmacy and the renowned Qing Yu Tang pharmacy.

The lane was also home to Zhang Xiaoquan Scissors Shop - Zhang's scissors are a Hangzhou's specialty. Today on the site of the business there is a souvenir shop that sells not only Zhang Xiaoquan scissors but also other city specialties, Wang Xingji fans and Heaven umbrellas.

Shanghai Daily visited the lane and among the rich history and folk stories discovered a friendly youth hostel, a plant-themed restaurant and two time-honored brands.

Mint Wine Restaurant

Mint, in keeping with its name, features plants everywhere - in the garden, in corners, on tables and hanging from the ceiling.

The white decor creates a bright, relaxing feel. Customers can sit in the small garden surrounded by the aroma of the mint growing there; at the bar, chatting with staff; on large sofas beside the windows; or in the yard.

The menu offers favorites such as braised pork in brown sauce, boneless ham shanks and garden-style fried chicken, plus seasonal specials. A bottle of wine ranges from 168 yuan (US$26.4) to 288 yuan.

Address: No. 50, Dajing Lane

Kong Fengchun Cosmetic Store

In its heyday, cosmetic brand Kong Fengchun was the height of luxury - like present-day Louis Vuitton and Coco Chanel - a saleswoman tells Shanghai Daily.

Indeed, when Kong Fengchun was founded in 1862 at Dajing Lane, its products were used by women in the royal palaces.

In 1929 when the first West Lake Expo was held, Kong Fengchun participated, with eight of its products winning prizes.

As time passed, the brand became more affordable for ordinary people. For years, the store has sold face cream by weight, so it is not unusual to see women bringing their own bottles to replenish supplies at 4 yuan for 50 grams.

At this newly opened store, the first floor stocks classics and new products, while the second floor houses a small museum of products dating back to the 19th century and antique face powder boxes.

Address: No. 25, Dajing Lane

Qing Yu Tang

Located at the west end of Dajing Lane is this famous pharmacy established in 1874 by Hu Xueyan, a famous official and herb merchant in the late Qing Dynasty.

The building also houses a working museum devoted to traditional Chinese medicine. The exhibition hall introduces the history and development of Chinese medicine; at the Chinese health care clinic doctors offer traditional care; prescriptions are obtained from the medicine preparation hall, where visitors can watch staff make pills and medicines; the restaurant offers dishes appropriate for different seasons; and at the sales department visitors can buy products made in the museum.

Opposite is Hu Qing Yu Tang Clinic where people can visit a TCM doctor, and east of the clinic is the Baoda Ginseng Pharmacy, now attached to Qing Yu Tang Pharmacy, which sells TCM herbs.

Address: No. 95, Dajing Lane

Hofang Youth Hostel and Shine Restaurant

The two businesses - the youth hostel and the restaurant - are founded on the same premise and staff work at both.

The hostel also owns a DIY pottery studio on the third floor.

The youth hostel features relaxing, understated decor and furnishings, the laid-back vibe enhanced by shelves of travel books and magazines, a snooker table, guitars and lots of postcards.

"I designed the youth hostel as a place where people can communicate, in the hostel's hall or in the restaurant," says Calvin Song, owner of the business.

As a child, Song lived in Dajing Lane and Shine Restaurant is exactly where a classmate used to live, he says.

"I've experienced traditional life here, and tried to recreate the same atmosphere in my business, so the hostel is like a home where staff and customers are like a family," Song explains.

The Shine Restaurant offers classical Western food in simply decorated surroundings. It features a dark green color scheme, its walls decorated by kites, Chinese-style oil paintings and handicrafts collected by Song from every corner of the country.

Address: No. 67, Dajing Lane

Tel: (0571) 8707-9290




 

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