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December 31, 2012

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Home » City specials » Hangzhou

Obscure village reinvented as tranquil getaway

BAILEQIAO is a small village located near Lingyin Temple, hidden in the lush vegetation of Beigao Hill. The original name of the village was Wanfo, which means thousands of Buddhas in Chinese, because it was dotted with numerous temples in ancient times.

When the famous poet Bai Juyi was appointed as mayor of Hangzhou during the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907), he changed the village's name to Baileqiao.

Due to its former small size and relative obscurity, Hangzhou government didn't mark the village in maps before 2009. Even some elder residents of Hangzhou cannot give its accurate location.

In fact, coming out from the side door of Lingyin Temple, if they don't cross a stone bridge over a small creek, visitors can easily miss Baileqiao, which lies secluded behind trees.

Famous writer Fang Lingru spent years living in Baileqiao. She wrote to a friend that "my surroundings are peaceful and quiet. I hear the creek ripple over the stones and the leaves rustle in the wind and feel tranquil."

The natural beauty of the village has long attracted celebrities. But in the past its appeal was limited by poor housing and sanitation and a road often reduced to a muddy path.

Since 2006, villagers have given Baileqiao a complete facelift. They pulled down worn-out houses and built two-floor villas. Villas were required to have white walls and black roofs, aimed at creating identical appearances to match the beautiful surroundings. Infrastructure, including an asphalt road, public toilets and a garbage collecting point also helped the revamp.

Following all this work, Baileqiao has become a very popular destination.

As Lingyin Temple is one of the largest Buddhist temples in China, featuring numerous pagodas and grottoes, tourists come to burn incense every day. Around 2007, villagers began to run family inns to accommodate tourists.

In a far cry from its obscure recent past, today Baileqiao welcomes large numbers of visitors and has gained a reputation as a rendezvous for Hangzhou's arty crowd.

Shanghai Daily takes a walk around the Baileqiao village and visits three popular inns.

Lingyin Ferry Inn

The word ferry in Buddhism has a special meaning; people embark on boats to leave the world of sufferings through attaining enlightenment.

Lingyin Ferry Inn is shaded by vegetation on a narrow footpath alongside Lingyin Road.

Owner Gu Lin built it as a family inn with simple and plain European-style decor. Gu says she regards the inn as her home and wants guests to feel at home too.

To help create a relaxed atmosphere, Gu invites guests to share fruit and dine with her and employees if they want.

And before going to bed, she rustles up soup and desserts for guests, in order, says Gu, to help them go to sleep in a sunny mood.

The front yard is eye-catching and homey too. Gu asked a landscape designer to help her arrange the plants and the yard is now full of blooms all year round.

Address: No. 45 Baileqiao

Tel: (0571) 8806-0468

Country Stroll Inn

Opening the wooden gate and entering the yard, guests may feel as if they have stepped into a pastoral painting. Plants, sunshades and garden furniture are in perfect order creating a perfect spot on sunny days for taking a leisurely tea or coffee.

The lobby is also full of natural elements. A stylish decoration made from bamboo partitions the public and hand washing areas, and dried flowers adorn the ceiling.

The inn has 15 rooms in different styles. Some are painted green like the countryside, while others have pink paint work and floral curtains.

As one of the oldest inns of Baileqiao, Country Stroll Inn has become hugely popular on the Internet. During the peak season, usually from April to July, guests must book ahead.

Address: No. 289 Baileqiao

Tel: (0571) 86968921

Xiao Zhu Li Inn

This inn reflects the surrounding Buddhist culture and beliefs of its owner Zhu Li in its decor. In the steps leading to the lobby sit two Buddhas, while a large vase of artificial lotus flowers and a mini fountain are found in corners of the lobby.

On the shelf are heads of Buddha and various forms of Maitreya, foretold as a future Buddha. Traditional wooden tables and chairs, together with other knickknacks like porcelains, jade items and traditional ink paintings, add to the Chinese flavor of the inn.

Xiao Zhu Li Inn has 19 rooms, each featuring different decor designed by Zhu and her husband, Song Lingfu. The rooms are named after poetic Chinese phrases, adding to the artistic ambience. And as the nearest inn to Lingyin Temple, guests awaken to the sound of its bell.

Address: No. 6 Baileqiao

Tel: (0571) 8971-9898




 

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