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Old town still excels at indigo-dyed fabrics
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WUZHEN is a picturesque watertown in Zhejiang Province much like the others in the region except for one thing — it is famous for dyed textiles that resemble batiks.
Known as lan yin hua bu (钃濆嵃鑺卞竷), many tourists come specifically to buy indigo tablecloths, scarves, quilt covers, cushions, curtains and more.
The Tong Feng Yu workshop has produced handmade lan yin hua bu for hundreds of years and continues using the same techniques today.
Producers now create exquisite patterns and more fashionable designs.
Some fashion designers have used the style to design chic and trendy apparel. Indeed, President Xi Jinping’s wife, Peng Liyuan, brought more attention to the craft recently when she wore an indigo-dyed coat at a public event.
The workshop has teamed with Nantong Lan Yin Hua Bu Museum to set up an exhibition featuring more than 180 pieces at Hangzhou Crafts and Arts Museum through December 24. Zhejiang Library has contributed historical documents about the craft to further enlighten visitors about how the textiles were made.
Lan yin hua bu originated in the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) and boomed during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. At the time, people in the Yangtze River Delta found they could use the common indigo plant to dye white cotton fabric dark blue.
The colors and patterns were simple and plain compared to what’s available now, but locals began to make these batik-like textiles for commoners.
When people married, the bride’s dowry was wrapped in lan yin hua bu. Meanwhile, groom’s family had to manufacture large quantities of lan yin hua bu to give to his bride.
The quilts and sheets in the bridal chamber were made of the dyed fabric. Usually, the patterns were related with the legend of Buddha sending children to the newlyweds in hope they would have a baby as soon as possible.
Later when a child was born, the newborn would be put in clothes made of lan yin hua bu with patterns of god protecting the baby against evil. The patterns on the clothes would vary according to different stages of life.
Newborn’s family would distribute eggs wrapped with it to relatives and friends. In return they would visit the baby and new mother, bringing presents covered by the dyed fabric.
It was also common at birthdays, especially for elders.
Their drapery would be changed to lan yin hua bu with the Chinese characters “绂忕瀵,”which means longevity and prosperity.
In some areas, the dyed fabric played a significant role at funerals. Everyone attending was expected to wear a loincloth made of lan yin hua bu. The deceased was covered with an indigo quilt, which was placed in the coffin with other burial objects.
Along with time, the daily social significance has faded but it remains a cultural heritage in Wuzhen.
Date: Through December 24
Venue: Hangzhou Crafts and Arts Museum, 336 Xiaohe Rd
Admission: Free
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