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November 7, 2011

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Home » City specials » Hangzhou

Old-style charm thrives in Longmen

LONGMEN Ancient Town has pretty much everything a tourist could want in a small town - cobblestone streets, narrow lanes, old buildings, ancient temples and a way of life that seems unchanged from centuries ago. Xu Wenwen takes a stroll.

For tourists who enjoy delving into the country's rich history and heritage by checking out older buildings, Longmen Ancient Town is a great place to spend a day.

Many of the buildings in the town were built more than 300 years ago.

Longmen is 52 kilometers south of Hangzhou and is famous for its rich culture that stretches back more than 1,000 years.

More than 90 percent of the town's people are surnamed Sun. They are descendants of the 3rd century warlord Sun Quan (AD 182-252), King of the Wu State (AD 222-280) of the Three Kingdoms (AD 220-280).

Among them, the youngest Suns are the 58th generation of the warlord's descendants. Today, the Suns of Longmen still hold ceremonies honoring their ancestors every autumn, when residents of all ages gather to watch traditional Chinese operas and offer sacrifices to Buddha or their ancestors.

There are some 40 heritage buildings in Longmen still standing today, among them are Suns' ancestral halls, homes, pagodas and memorial arches - most of which were built in the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. They are typical examples of classical architecture in southern China.

Walking into the ancient town, visitors will likely start their tour at Old Street, which was built in the 18th century. It's a narrow lane paved by cobblestones. It was a gathering place for businessmen in old times.

The town has a maze-like feel as all the roads and lanes crisscross, unlike modern urban layouts that are often grid-like.

Two-story buildings with white walls and black upturned eaves grab your attention in the lanes.

Stores operate out of the first floor while the second floor is usually used by a family for accommodation. At some spots the lanes are so narrow that they are only wide enough for one person.

These lanes really provide a good look at how people live. Some families raise chickens or farm small vegetable plots and you can usually see someone cooking lunch or dinner.

Here, almost every wall is mottled with plaster peeling off the stone walls. Some wooden doors have rotted.

Just like the cobblestone lanes, the buildings in Longmen are unsophisticated, yet they have a simple dignity that is hard to define.

Siyuan Temple is one of two ancestral temples from the Sun clan that remain in the town. The temple pays homage to the family as many portraits of distinguished figures in the clan can be seen.

The other ancestral temple is the millennium-old Sun Temple, situated in front of a square. The wood and stone temple has a tiled roof and is where the Suns hold ceremonies to honor their ancestors.

South of the temple, a museum showcases old furniture.

In the heart of Longmen, visitors will notice Yi Gate. Built about 500 years ago, the arch is a memorial in honor of Sun Chao, an affluent man who sold all his property to provide relief for local victims of famine during the Ming Dynasty.

The gate is about two stories tall, and features typical Chinese upturned black eaves that symbolize dignity. It adjoins an old house that was used for some scenes in the film "Hairdresser" by director Chen Yifei.

The town is also home to a very old private institute, or sishu in Chinese. The institute has trained one zhuangyuan who ranked No. 1 in the imperial examinations in ancient China.

As one of the most beautiful ancient towns in China, Longmen also attracts many art students who enjoy sketching various scenes in the quaint town.

Tourists can also hike up Longmen Mountain. The highlight of the hike is a 100-meter waterfall.




 

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