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Pastries, herbs and knickknacks on historic street
By Wu Huixin |
November 26, 2012, Monday
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Print Edition
Print Edition
Every city on the Chinese mainland has a Zhongshan Road to commemorate the great revolutionary Sun Yat-sen, who was also known as Sun Zhongshan.
The southern and middle section of Hangzhou's Zhongshan Road is the site of Royal Street of the Southern Song Dynasty and was restored to its traditional appearance three years ago. However, Zhongshan Road N. has retained a modern commercial look, dotted with fashion houses and banks.
Zhongshan Road N. connects with Jesus Lane, a center for foreign missionaries hundreds of years ago. It features two churches - Hangzhou Catholic Church and Tian Shui Church, adding history to the bustling road.
Hangzhou Catholic Church, featuring Roman-style dome architecture and stained glass, was the first church in the city. In 1659, Italian Jesuit Martino Martini came to Hangzhou and presided over its construction with the financial support of the Zhejiang governor.
Tian Shui Church was built during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) by Huston and Hallemay, two American Southern Presbyterian missionaries.
Later, John Linton Stuart took charge of the growing church. His eldest son, John Leighton Stuart - the first president of Yenching University and United States ambassador to China - was born and spent his childhood here.
Today, the two churches are still used by local Christians.
In addition to the churches, Shanghai Daily has uncovered three gems along the thoroughfare - a traditional Chinese medicine pharmacy, a pastry store and a knickknack shop.
Zhang Tongtai Pharmacy
(张同泰)
This TCM pharmacy enjoys huge fame over Hangzhou and even China as a whole. It is situated in an old building built during the late Qing Dynasty at the intersection of Zhongshan Road N. and Hai'er Lane.
The carved door and ceramic implements for grinding herbs are antiques handed down from generation to generation, and still very much in use. Stepping into the pharmacy, customers are hit by a strong smell of herbs.
The pharmacy has adhered to its own TCM principles since its establishment in 1805 by Zhang Mei. It insists on high-quality herbs and consequently has been trusted by consumers for more than 200 years.
The pharmacy also has 60 national-level or provincial-level TCM physicians. Every doctor works only half a day a week, so customers must book in advance.
In the lobby of the pharmacy are two walls of carefully labeled drawers. Staff take herbs from these to make packs for customers.
Address: 99 Zhongshan Road N.
Jiu Zhi Zhai
(九芝斋)
One of Hangzhou's top time-honored pastry stores, Jiu Zhi Zhai was established in 1925 selling many varieties of preserved fruits and pastries - including sesame crunchy candies, peanut strips, mungbean cakes, red bean candies and coconut cookies.
Before the mid-1990s, most Hangzhou pastries were sweet, but Jiu Zhi Zhai created savory varieties - adding pickled vegetables and spiced salt - which found favor with Hangzhou locals.
The most popular pastry is the freshly made mooncake, containing pork and hot pickled mustard tuber. The mooncake is hot from the oven and tastes mellow and crisp.
Its reasonable price and delicious taste see queues forming to stock up on the tasty snack, especially during Mid-Autumn Festival.
While in the past Jiu Zhi Zhai attracted mostly older customers, several years ago management introduced new lines to attract younger pastry fans. Now, in addition to traditional fare, the shop offers Western pastries and cakes, and has succeeded in expanding its customer base.
Address: 122 Zhongshan Road N.
Zhilife Shop and Studio
(纸植生活概念店)
Zhilife is located beside Hangzhou Catholic Church. This is an own-brand store featuring the work of a dozen designers.
By the doorway is a shelf of cute ceramic birds, flower-shaped pothooks and multi-colored mini watering buckets. Beneath is a low shelf chockablock with pot plants.
In the center of the shop is a table filled with knickknacks such as ceramic dogs, cats and horses, novel iPhone covers, joss sticks and porcelain items. These include frogs and lotus leaves designed to float on water.
In a cabinet are exquisite porcelain teapots and cups from Zhilife's own designers. Some look like lotus lanterns, while others resemble Aladdin's magic lamp.
In a rear cabinet are items, including textile handbags and wooden tableware. On top are flowers made from environmentally friendly pulp.
The shop also offers custom-made porcelain services.
Address: 415 Zhongshan Road N.
The southern and middle section of Hangzhou's Zhongshan Road is the site of Royal Street of the Southern Song Dynasty and was restored to its traditional appearance three years ago. However, Zhongshan Road N. has retained a modern commercial look, dotted with fashion houses and banks.
Zhongshan Road N. connects with Jesus Lane, a center for foreign missionaries hundreds of years ago. It features two churches - Hangzhou Catholic Church and Tian Shui Church, adding history to the bustling road.
Hangzhou Catholic Church, featuring Roman-style dome architecture and stained glass, was the first church in the city. In 1659, Italian Jesuit Martino Martini came to Hangzhou and presided over its construction with the financial support of the Zhejiang governor.
Tian Shui Church was built during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) by Huston and Hallemay, two American Southern Presbyterian missionaries.
Later, John Linton Stuart took charge of the growing church. His eldest son, John Leighton Stuart - the first president of Yenching University and United States ambassador to China - was born and spent his childhood here.
Today, the two churches are still used by local Christians.
In addition to the churches, Shanghai Daily has uncovered three gems along the thoroughfare - a traditional Chinese medicine pharmacy, a pastry store and a knickknack shop.
Zhang Tongtai Pharmacy
(张同泰)
This TCM pharmacy enjoys huge fame over Hangzhou and even China as a whole. It is situated in an old building built during the late Qing Dynasty at the intersection of Zhongshan Road N. and Hai'er Lane.
The carved door and ceramic implements for grinding herbs are antiques handed down from generation to generation, and still very much in use. Stepping into the pharmacy, customers are hit by a strong smell of herbs.
The pharmacy has adhered to its own TCM principles since its establishment in 1805 by Zhang Mei. It insists on high-quality herbs and consequently has been trusted by consumers for more than 200 years.
The pharmacy also has 60 national-level or provincial-level TCM physicians. Every doctor works only half a day a week, so customers must book in advance.
In the lobby of the pharmacy are two walls of carefully labeled drawers. Staff take herbs from these to make packs for customers.
Address: 99 Zhongshan Road N.
Jiu Zhi Zhai
(九芝斋)
One of Hangzhou's top time-honored pastry stores, Jiu Zhi Zhai was established in 1925 selling many varieties of preserved fruits and pastries - including sesame crunchy candies, peanut strips, mungbean cakes, red bean candies and coconut cookies.
Before the mid-1990s, most Hangzhou pastries were sweet, but Jiu Zhi Zhai created savory varieties - adding pickled vegetables and spiced salt - which found favor with Hangzhou locals.
The most popular pastry is the freshly made mooncake, containing pork and hot pickled mustard tuber. The mooncake is hot from the oven and tastes mellow and crisp.
Its reasonable price and delicious taste see queues forming to stock up on the tasty snack, especially during Mid-Autumn Festival.
While in the past Jiu Zhi Zhai attracted mostly older customers, several years ago management introduced new lines to attract younger pastry fans. Now, in addition to traditional fare, the shop offers Western pastries and cakes, and has succeeded in expanding its customer base.
Address: 122 Zhongshan Road N.
Zhilife Shop and Studio
(纸植生活概念店)
Zhilife is located beside Hangzhou Catholic Church. This is an own-brand store featuring the work of a dozen designers.
By the doorway is a shelf of cute ceramic birds, flower-shaped pothooks and multi-colored mini watering buckets. Beneath is a low shelf chockablock with pot plants.
In the center of the shop is a table filled with knickknacks such as ceramic dogs, cats and horses, novel iPhone covers, joss sticks and porcelain items. These include frogs and lotus leaves designed to float on water.
In a cabinet are exquisite porcelain teapots and cups from Zhilife's own designers. Some look like lotus lanterns, while others resemble Aladdin's magic lamp.
In a rear cabinet are items, including textile handbags and wooden tableware. On top are flowers made from environmentally friendly pulp.
The shop also offers custom-made porcelain services.
Address: 415 Zhongshan Road N.
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