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Home 禄 City specials 禄 Hangzhou

Side-street fare both tasty and reasonably priced

By Wu Huixin | January 1, 2014, Wednesday | Print Edition

Wulin and Yan’an roads are considered the most prosperous thoroughfares of Hangzhou, with fancy shopping malls, banks and high-end restaurants that attract loads of visitors every day.

The lanes and blocks between these two roads are comparatively tranquil, with cozy boutiques, dessert shops, small breakfast shops and some low-profile restaurants that offer delicacies.

East-west Jietansi Lane and north-south Zhijietansi Lane cross in this area and offer some delicious eateries. They shared the same name in Chinese, but the character zhi (meaning straight) was added to the latter to distinguish it from the former.

They are both named after the former Jietan Temple (si meaning temple), which no longer exists.

Shanghai Daily found four eateries along these lanes that are recommended. They are much like restaurants on Wulin and Yan’an roads, but the lower prices mean there are sometimes lines to get in. Remember not to drive there because parking is difficult in the lanes.

Zhou Suzhen Traditional Huzhou Wonton

It may be hard to imagine a plain wonton shop can be crowded all day. But once you try the wonton here, it’s easier to understand.

The wonton shop is hidden in a residential block and the façade is not eye-catching, but that doesn’t hurt its business.

If you go there during busy times, be prepared to wait for a seat.

This wonton joint really proves that the news about good food gets around. It boasts traditional Huzhou wonton from the city in north Zhejiang Province, characterized by thin dough and ample fillings of a dozen varieties, including meat, celery, cabbage, wild herbs, mushroom, shrimp and ham.

The 20-square-meter shop is simply decorated with wooden walls and tables.

Address: No. 156, Jietansi Lane

Tel: (0571) 8510-1937

Magpie Bistro

A block from Yan’an Road on Zhijietansi Lane, you’ll find a restaurant with a modern façade that contrasts sharply with the neighboring buildings.

Entering it, you’ll find the décor is a combination of classical Chinese and Western. The magpie appears everywhere — the wall is painted in magpie feathers and the shelves are shaped like magpie nests.

The magpie is an auspicious bird in Chinese culture. If it twitters on your roof, it means a forecast of a bright future.

The restaurant serves traditional Hangzhou cuisine and Cantonese food. Two must-orders include brown sugar-steamed buns and Tangxi meatballs.

Unlike common white buns, the ones served here are brown due to a mixture of glutinous rice and brown sugar. Chefs top the buns with a pinch of brown sugar, which melts into thick syrup after steaming. The buns are hot from the oven, soft and fragrant.

Meatballs is a signature dish of Tangxi Town of Yuhang District. It is said that it was created to treat Emperor Qianlong (1711-99) of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) when he dropped in on Tangxi during his southbound trip.

The Tangxi meatballs are made of shredded pork, vegetables and starch. The key step is to wrap them with a layer of glutinous rice and then steam.

Address: No. 37, Zhijietansi Lane

Tel: (0571) 8815-2017 

Mango Mango

This is a rendezvous for those who have shopped all day but need a brief respite. Its location at the intersection of Jietansi Lane and Yan’an Road attracts lots of shoppers who pass by.

Mango and black rice are used in many of its desserts. The former is cooked into soup with coconut and the latter is made into cakes that are al dente and smooth. Or, they are both blended with sago.

Address: No. 116, Jietansi Lane

Tel: (0571) 8715-5575

Lao TouÕer Sauteed Shrimp

The name means “old man” in Chinese; here it’s for both the famous dish and the restaurant that created a stir when it opened 10 years ago.

The eatery became known for serving ordinary Hangzhou dishes that were so good that a long line formed in front every day and anyone who didn’t book a seat in person before 3pm usually had to wait. It still attracts crowds.

Recommended dishes contain sauteed shrimp, fried shrimp and eel, sliced cold chicken, deep-fried hairtail fish and cold spiced duck.

 

Address: No. 25, Jietansi Lane

Tel: (0571) 8515-1117

 

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