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November 19, 2012

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HomeCity specialsHangzhou

Stories of wealth and tragic love in historic villas

Beginning at the Broken Bridge and ending at the scenic spot Lotus in the Breeze at Crooked Courtyard, Beishan Road enjoys a perfect location across from Bai Causeway, facing the beautiful West Lake and south of Baoshi Hill.

Many famous people have made their homes on this road, which also features the tombs of some.

At the east end of Beishan Road is the former residence of Chiang Ching-kuo, son of former Chinese Nationalist government leader Chiang Kai-shek. In the mid section is the tomb of Su Xiaoxiao, a famous courtesan and poet from the Southern Qi Dynasty (AD 479鈥502), while the west end is the site of the Temple of Yue Fei, a general during the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279).

It's not only the famous who have been drawn by the picturesque road. Every day newly-weds pitch up for wedding pictures, photographers snap the scenery and pedestrians simply enjoy a stroll.

Shanghai Daily took a walk along Beishan Road on a sunny autumn day, visiting three famous villas with rich histories, and even a tragic love story.


Qiushui Villa(绉嬫按灞卞簞)

This villa was built by Shi Liangcai (1880-1934), a journalist best known for his ownership of Shen Bao - the most widely circulated newspaper in Shanghai - during the late Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) and Republic of China (1911-1949).

The villa was dedicated to Shi's second wife, Shen Qiushui. Before Shen met Shi, she was a courtesan of a Manchu prince. After the death of the prince, Shen went to Shanghai and there met and quickly fell in love with Shi. To support her husband's journalism career, Shen gave him all her wealth, which she had accumulated from her relationship with the Manchu prince. Shi used the cash to found Shen Bao, his wife's money proving pivotal in the success of the newspaper.

But like other men in old China, where polygamy was legal, Shi later married a third wife, which left Shen devastated. Feeling guilty Shi built the villa on Beishan Road to compensate and console Shen.

As time went by, Shen forgave Shi and lived in the villa peacefully. But good times didn't last; Shi opposed the Kuomintang government and was assassinated by Chiang Kai-shek's henchmen in 1934.

Shen was heartbroken over her husband's death and chose to leave Qiushui Villa and eventually converted to Buddhism.

Over the decades that followed, the villa was nationalized as a hospital. Today, it is as part of Xinxin Hotel.

Address: 56-60 Beishan Road



West Lake Expo Museum(瑗挎箹鍗氳浼氬崥鐗╅)

This museum is located in the original exhibition hall of the First West Lake Expo, held in 1929. The first exhibition hall in Zhejiang Province, and possibly China, it featured the Art Deco style of the period.

The First West Lake Expo lasted 137 days, and its more than 147,000 exhibits attracted 20 million visitors, making it the most influential expo in China.

However, the event was discontinued due to the turmoil in war-torn China.

In 2000, Hangzhou government revived the expo as an annual festival.

In 2003, The villa became the West Lake Expo Museum, with the aim of introducing the history of the expo through artifacts and documents, together with a modern multimedia experience.

Inside the villa is an area belonging to HiCenter (Hangzhou International Information Exchange Center), a non-profit institution devoted to promoting communication between Hangzhou and foreigners. It cooperates with various municipal departments to hold activities for expats in Hangzhou.

Address: 41-42 Beishan Road



Baoqing Villa(鎶遍潚鍒)

Featuring a baroque architectural style with square columns, arched doors and windows, and red brickwork, Baoqing Villa is considered by many as the "most beautiful building on Beishan Road."

Nowadays, it is a popular location among locals looking to shoot their wedding photos in an antique-style setting.

It was built in 1907 by rich merchant Xing Gengxin from Nanxun Town, one of the most well-preserved old watertowns in north Zhejiang. Xing's family were engaged in silk business and their wealth allowed them to build villas in many Chinese cities.

In 1929, this villa was lent to the organizing commission of the First West Lake Expo as an exhibition hall. Two years later, the Xing family transformed it into Geling Hotel, a high-end hotel with a fashionable modern Western restaurant.

During that period, it became a hangout for socialites, and famous politicians and scholars stayed there when visiting Hangzhou. Renowned writer and journalist Cao Juren portrayed the villa and expressed his nostalgia toward it in his book "Thousands Miles of Journey" after he settled in Hong Kong.

In 2005, the villa was restored to its former glories with extensive renovations. Today, Baoqing Villa is a high-end clubhouse offering Cantonese and Shanghainese cuisines.

Address: 40 Beishan Road


 

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