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Tangy tales behind traditional favorites
By Wu Huixin |
June 27, 2013, Thursday
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IN ancient China, salt was a precious material, the production of which was in the hands of central government.
In order to make the best use of every pinch, people used it to preserve vegetables and meat.
The preserved food would produce abundant lactobacillus bacteria during the fermentation process, which helps boost digestion.
Moreover, the tasty flavor stimulates the appetite.
Since the Qing Dynasty (1636-1911), China's preserved vegetables have been divided into northern and southern varieties - represented by Beijing Liubiju and Hangzhou Jingyangguan respectively.
Jingyangguan, established in 1907, still exists in Hangzhou today. Every day in its store on Southern Song Royal Street, streams of guests are attracted by the varieties of preserved vegetables on offer.
Jingyangguan was founded by Shou Daqing, an apprentice in a preserved vegetable factory in Zhuji, Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province
After six years of learning the techniques, he quit and set the shop in Hangzhou, where the fame of his preserved vegetables quickly spread.
Hangzhou officials even used them to make tribute payments to the imperial family.
To Hangzhou locals, Jingyangguan preserved vegetables are the best choice to go with rice porridge every morning.
The history and how Jingyangguan has thrived reflects Hangzhou natives' fondness for preserved vegetables.
Today, many restaurants have also been won over by the humble favorite, serving versions on their menus.
Today, Shanghai Daily recommends three dishes made of preserved vegetables and tells the stories and cooking methods behind them.
Yanzhou Prefecture preserved vegetable steamed with duck
This is a signature dish of Jiande County, the former Yanzhou Prefecture of Hangzhou. This noted dish has connections to Qing Dynasty Emperor Qianlong.
The story goes that Qianlong had a craving for duck when he arrived at Yanzhou on a southbound trip, after seeing ducks swimming in nearby lakes.
Eager to meet the emperor's demands, chefs quickly sprinkled preserved vegetables on a duck and steamed them together. The duck was wrapped in a layer of black preserved vegetables, removing the fishy smell of duck meat.
The emperor was delighted, praising the tender meat and delicate flavor, and the dish became popular with Yanzhou people.
As Yanzhou was a booming dock, the dish's fame soon spread. Today, people can still find versions of this traditional favorite in Hangzhou cuisine restaurants.
Recommended restaurants:
Yanzhou Prefecture Restaurants
Address: 201 Shangtang Rd
Tel: (0571) 8533-5666
POST Yihui Restaurant
Address: 26 Jiaogong Rd
Tel: (0571) 8815-0800
Dongpo pork with preserved vegetables
This dish is named after Su Dongpo, the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127) literary celebrity and one-time Hangzhou mayor.
When Su was in Hangzhou, the West Lake was silted up and often flooded in heavy rain.
Mayor Su organized locals to dredge the lake and build the present-day Su Causeway, succeeding in controlling the flooding.
Appreciative locals heard pork was Su's favorite they sent him large quantities as a gift.
However, Su insisted that the citizens had done all the hard work and told chefs to make a red-pork dish and distribute it among them.
Hangzhou people were so touched by this gesture they named the dish after Su Dongpo, and soon it was popular around the city.
Thereafter, folks cooked Dongpo pork at the Spring Festival to commemorate the mayor, creating a Hangzhou custom.
The dish was improved by adding preserved vegetables, bringing a refreshing flavor to the savory meat.
Dongpo pork is still considered the No.1 Hangzhou signature dish.
Recommended restaurants:
Weizhuang Restaurant
Address: 10-12 Yanggong Causeway
Tel: (0571) 8797-0568
The Grandma's
Address: 3 Hubin Rd
Tel: (0571) 8510-1939
Wangci fish steamed with preserved vegetable
Wangci - the yellowhead catfish - is found in the Yangtze River.
In traditional Chinese medicine, the fish is believed to benefit the stomach and spleen, treat cirrhosis and clear rashes.
As wangci is an especially greasy fish, cooking it with preserved vegetables is recommended, as these remove the grease and make the fish more fragrant.
A thick soup is made from preserved vegetables, soy sauce, cooking wine, sugar, pepper, shallots and anise. This is then poured over the fish, which has been covered in shredded ginger.
Then steam the fish over a moderate heat for 10 minutes, scattering chopped green onion for a sweet aroma.
Recommended restaurants:
Yi Jia Xian
Address: 220 Genshan Rd W.
Tel: (0571) 8609-5566
Qing Fan Xiang
Address: 58 Yuhuangshan Rd
Tel: (0571) 8106-0077
In order to make the best use of every pinch, people used it to preserve vegetables and meat.
The preserved food would produce abundant lactobacillus bacteria during the fermentation process, which helps boost digestion.
Moreover, the tasty flavor stimulates the appetite.
Since the Qing Dynasty (1636-1911), China's preserved vegetables have been divided into northern and southern varieties - represented by Beijing Liubiju and Hangzhou Jingyangguan respectively.
Jingyangguan, established in 1907, still exists in Hangzhou today. Every day in its store on Southern Song Royal Street, streams of guests are attracted by the varieties of preserved vegetables on offer.
Jingyangguan was founded by Shou Daqing, an apprentice in a preserved vegetable factory in Zhuji, Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province
After six years of learning the techniques, he quit and set the shop in Hangzhou, where the fame of his preserved vegetables quickly spread.
Hangzhou officials even used them to make tribute payments to the imperial family.
To Hangzhou locals, Jingyangguan preserved vegetables are the best choice to go with rice porridge every morning.
The history and how Jingyangguan has thrived reflects Hangzhou natives' fondness for preserved vegetables.
Today, many restaurants have also been won over by the humble favorite, serving versions on their menus.
Today, Shanghai Daily recommends three dishes made of preserved vegetables and tells the stories and cooking methods behind them.
Yanzhou Prefecture preserved vegetable steamed with duck
This is a signature dish of Jiande County, the former Yanzhou Prefecture of Hangzhou. This noted dish has connections to Qing Dynasty Emperor Qianlong.
The story goes that Qianlong had a craving for duck when he arrived at Yanzhou on a southbound trip, after seeing ducks swimming in nearby lakes.
Eager to meet the emperor's demands, chefs quickly sprinkled preserved vegetables on a duck and steamed them together. The duck was wrapped in a layer of black preserved vegetables, removing the fishy smell of duck meat.
The emperor was delighted, praising the tender meat and delicate flavor, and the dish became popular with Yanzhou people.
As Yanzhou was a booming dock, the dish's fame soon spread. Today, people can still find versions of this traditional favorite in Hangzhou cuisine restaurants.
Recommended restaurants:
Yanzhou Prefecture Restaurants
Address: 201 Shangtang Rd
Tel: (0571) 8533-5666
POST Yihui Restaurant
Address: 26 Jiaogong Rd
Tel: (0571) 8815-0800
Dongpo pork with preserved vegetables
This dish is named after Su Dongpo, the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127) literary celebrity and one-time Hangzhou mayor.
When Su was in Hangzhou, the West Lake was silted up and often flooded in heavy rain.
Mayor Su organized locals to dredge the lake and build the present-day Su Causeway, succeeding in controlling the flooding.
Appreciative locals heard pork was Su's favorite they sent him large quantities as a gift.
However, Su insisted that the citizens had done all the hard work and told chefs to make a red-pork dish and distribute it among them.
Hangzhou people were so touched by this gesture they named the dish after Su Dongpo, and soon it was popular around the city.
Thereafter, folks cooked Dongpo pork at the Spring Festival to commemorate the mayor, creating a Hangzhou custom.
The dish was improved by adding preserved vegetables, bringing a refreshing flavor to the savory meat.
Dongpo pork is still considered the No.1 Hangzhou signature dish.
Recommended restaurants:
Weizhuang Restaurant
Address: 10-12 Yanggong Causeway
Tel: (0571) 8797-0568
The Grandma's
Address: 3 Hubin Rd
Tel: (0571) 8510-1939
Wangci fish steamed with preserved vegetable
Wangci - the yellowhead catfish - is found in the Yangtze River.
In traditional Chinese medicine, the fish is believed to benefit the stomach and spleen, treat cirrhosis and clear rashes.
As wangci is an especially greasy fish, cooking it with preserved vegetables is recommended, as these remove the grease and make the fish more fragrant.
A thick soup is made from preserved vegetables, soy sauce, cooking wine, sugar, pepper, shallots and anise. This is then poured over the fish, which has been covered in shredded ginger.
Then steam the fish over a moderate heat for 10 minutes, scattering chopped green onion for a sweet aroma.
Recommended restaurants:
Yi Jia Xian
Address: 220 Genshan Rd W.
Tel: (0571) 8609-5566
Qing Fan Xiang
Address: 58 Yuhuangshan Rd
Tel: (0571) 8106-0077
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