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West Lake islet filled with nature, culture
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DESPITE its relatively deceptive name, Solitary Hill in Hangzhou is actually an islet in the West Lake connected by Bai Causeway and Xiling Bridge. Being dotted with 30 scenic spots and classical Chinese gardens, it also represents the city’s integration of nature and cultural relics.
Shanghai Daily recently visited the islet to take in its poetic ambience. Visitors can follow our steps and see its treasures for themselves.
Bus Y10 is the only public transportation to Solitary Hill. After disembarking at the Xiling Bridge stop, visitors can start their journey at Gushan Park. Walking along Hougushan Road, they can see graves for figures such as Qiu Jing and Su Manshu, both revolutionaries who fought against the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) rulers.
Plum trees are scattered along the path, but grow thickly around the Fanghe Pavilion. Fanghe (literally “release the crane”) was built to commemorate Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127) poet, Lin Bu. One of the most famous poets in his day, Lin lived in seclusion at Gushan for more than 20 years.
Lin was considered eccentric because he refused to hold government office and remained single. He spent his time planting plum trees and raising cranes, which led people to joke that he was married to the plum and had taken cranes as his son.
In Chinese culture, plum blossoms symbolize strength, resilience and renewal, as well as struggle. Lin grew them not only for entertainment, but also as a reminder of the importance of bearing hardship.
After his death, Lin was buried in Gushan, located behind the pavilion. His works and story have ensured him a place in Chinese history. Today, many people still visit his grave to pay their respects to this reclusive man of letters.
Fanghe Pavilion is not the only spot boasting flowers. Just a few steps away, visitors can see stone-paved trails flanked by plum trees. This area is to the east of the Lin Society building, constructed in honor of Lin Qi, who was responsible for establishing several top schools in Hangzhou, including Qiushi Academy (now Zhejiang University), the Silkworm Breeding School (now Zhejiang University of Science and Technology) and Yangzheng School (now Hangzhou High School).
The villa melds Chinese and Western elements, upturned eaves and cement walls. Nearby are two camphor trees that are more than 500 years old. Chimonanthus surround the villa with an aromatic smell. The yellow flowers mix with pink and white plum blossoms to create a vibrant scene in late winter.
After taking in the floral view, we kept going along Hougushan Road. At the intersection with Bai Causeway, one finds one of the top scenes of West Lake: Moon over the Peaceful Lake in Autumn. The area has an open platform from which one can admire the full moon without obstruction from trees or buildings. From here, the peaceful lake acts like a mirror reflecting the moon.
In ancient times, literati would gather there at Mid-Autumn Festival to compose verses celebrating the full moon — a symbol of happiness and reunion in Chinese culture.
From here, we entered Gushan Road. First stop was Zhejiang Museum. It was built in 1929. Being the largest museum in Zhejiang, it often hosts exhibitions displaying artifacts unearthed across the province.
The museum also houses the Wenlan Pavilion. Archival material suggests more than 36,300 ancient books were once collected in the pavilion. Importantly, the pavilion played the role of a library for scholars in the past. Though the original pavilion was later destroyed, the ancient books have been preserved.
Our tour ended with the sightseeing in Xiling, home to the first academic society of seal-related learning and arts. Nowadays, the society complex covers 5 square kilometers. It contains the Calligraphy Stele Corridor, the Stone Archway, Shijiao Pavilion and other halls, caves and buildings featuring master seal works.
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