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Western cuisine spices up the culinary scene
By Xu Wenwen and Wu Huixin |
September 13, 2012, Thursday
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HANGZHOU people first learned about Western food around a century ago when Haifeng Western Restaurant was founded. It was the city's first restaurant specializing in various European cuisines.
Though it closed years ago due to mismanagement, the city has a good mix of Western eateries these days including Italian, French and Spanish. Chefs are even localizing some dishes and looking to make new recipes.
Hangzhou people prefer mild and delicate foods that retain the original flavor, which chefs need to keep in mind when altering recipes for locals.
Shanghai Daily visits three foreign restaurants around the city and talks to chefs about changing recipes to suit local customers.
La Pedrera
Spanish Restaurant
As a country famous for its food, Spain features both traditional and modern cuisine.
La Pedrera chef Ezequiel Cardozo, who has worked in Michelin-star restaurants, is a creative whiz in the kitchen who likes to experiment with molecular gastronomy dishes.
Some of his creations include bubbles made from tomato and radish, coffee made into frozen crystals and lamb cooked at 60 degrees Celsius.
He turns all the vegetables of gazpacho including potato, cucumber and onion into a creamy sauce using liquid nitrogen. Customers can then add soup on to the sauce.
Cardozo also poaches eggs at 65 degrees and spring lamb, beef cheeks and piglet at 60 degrees for hours to retain texture and nutrition.
"It is a trend that cooks in Spain are taking innovative approaches to traditional Spanish food, and I think I should introduce some of those changes to my Hangzhou customers," Cardozo says.
Address: No. 4 Baishaquan
Tel: (0571) 8886-6089
Chef's picks:Spring Lamb, Smoked Raw Salmon with Iberian Ham and Poached Egg, Crispy Suckling Pig
Due Forni
Italian Restaurant
Due Forni is at Xihu Tiandi and the large windows allow diners to appreciate beautiful views of West Lake.
Run by an Italian, the restaurant makes both southern and northern Italian food. Its signature dish is Risotto Stewed with Saffron and Asparagus.
The rice for the risotto is imported from Italy and has a sticky flavor as the chef stews it with onion, chicken and other ingredients. It requires frequent stirring until cooked. He uses saffron to give it a special aroma.
Finally, it's topped with asparagus and preserved tomatoes.
The chef also makes a stylish Warm Chocolate Fondant with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. The combination of warm and cold provide a pleasing experience in the mouth. Guests are recommended to take half a spoon of the mellow chocolate and mix it with some ice cream.
At night, Shekainah, a band from the Philippines, takes to the stage to perform a mix of popular songs from the past few decades.
Due Forni also often offers wine discounts, so check with the wait staff for any specials.
The restaurant is currently running a special that includes a starter, main course and a drink from the designated menu for 58 yuan (US$9.16). The offer is valid daily from 11:30am to 5pm (except public holidays).
Angelo's
Italian-New York Restaurant & Bar
At the foot of Baoshi Hill, Angelo's is owned by an Italian duo and serves a mix of Italian and New York style dishes.
Benedetto Stella is the co-founder and chef of Angelo's. From Matera in southern Italy, Stella is a Michelin two-star chef and has 15 years of chef and restaurant ownership experience, having run restaurants in Bangkok, Thailand and Shenzhen in Guangdong Province.
The menu includes New York grilled rib eye and sirloin steaks.
There are also some creations that show the chef is trying to appeal to local tastes.
The Peking Duck Pizza (Pichinese on the menu) is a good example. The mixed pizza combines two parts: one half with smoked duck breast and tomato sauce, and the other with mozzarella cheese and Italian ham.
Stella seems to have a good understanding of the locals' preference for mild-tasting food.
Benny's Salad (named after him) contains boiled eggs and not-very-salty Italian ham as well as potatoes, cucumbers and cabbage.
Though he often chooses ingredients locals are more familiar with, Stella also makes authentic Italian dishes. The rice and pasta are al-dente, not soft as Chinese people tend to prefer and the tiramisu is strong as it is made from Italian mascarpone cheese, savoiardi (ladyfinger) and coffee without any water.
Angelo's purchases vegetables from local markets while importing meat and seasonings from Europe and fish from Vietnam and Japan.
Stella says he hopes to open more restaurants around the country.
"Chinese people were not used to McDonald's at the beginning, but it developed so well," he says. "I believe Chinese will like Italian food as well."
Address: No. 6, Lane 2, Baochu Road, (at the foot of Baoshi Hill)
Tel: (0571) 8521-2100
Chef's picks:Benny's Salad, Sole Fish Fillet Sautéed in White Wine Sauce, Home-made Pasta, Parma Pizza, Tiramisu
Address: House 8, 147 Nanshan Road,Xihu Tiandi
Tel: (0571) 8702-6333
Chef's picks:Risotto Stewed with Saffron and Asparagus, Beef Carpaccio with Rucola Leave and Parmesan Cheese, Assortment of Italian Starters and Cured Meats, Classic Italian Pizza
Though it closed years ago due to mismanagement, the city has a good mix of Western eateries these days including Italian, French and Spanish. Chefs are even localizing some dishes and looking to make new recipes.
Hangzhou people prefer mild and delicate foods that retain the original flavor, which chefs need to keep in mind when altering recipes for locals.
Shanghai Daily visits three foreign restaurants around the city and talks to chefs about changing recipes to suit local customers.
La Pedrera
Spanish Restaurant
As a country famous for its food, Spain features both traditional and modern cuisine.
La Pedrera chef Ezequiel Cardozo, who has worked in Michelin-star restaurants, is a creative whiz in the kitchen who likes to experiment with molecular gastronomy dishes.
Some of his creations include bubbles made from tomato and radish, coffee made into frozen crystals and lamb cooked at 60 degrees Celsius.
He turns all the vegetables of gazpacho including potato, cucumber and onion into a creamy sauce using liquid nitrogen. Customers can then add soup on to the sauce.
Cardozo also poaches eggs at 65 degrees and spring lamb, beef cheeks and piglet at 60 degrees for hours to retain texture and nutrition.
"It is a trend that cooks in Spain are taking innovative approaches to traditional Spanish food, and I think I should introduce some of those changes to my Hangzhou customers," Cardozo says.
Address: No. 4 Baishaquan
Tel: (0571) 8886-6089
Chef's picks:Spring Lamb, Smoked Raw Salmon with Iberian Ham and Poached Egg, Crispy Suckling Pig
Due Forni
Italian Restaurant
Due Forni is at Xihu Tiandi and the large windows allow diners to appreciate beautiful views of West Lake.
Run by an Italian, the restaurant makes both southern and northern Italian food. Its signature dish is Risotto Stewed with Saffron and Asparagus.
The rice for the risotto is imported from Italy and has a sticky flavor as the chef stews it with onion, chicken and other ingredients. It requires frequent stirring until cooked. He uses saffron to give it a special aroma.
Finally, it's topped with asparagus and preserved tomatoes.
The chef also makes a stylish Warm Chocolate Fondant with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. The combination of warm and cold provide a pleasing experience in the mouth. Guests are recommended to take half a spoon of the mellow chocolate and mix it with some ice cream.
At night, Shekainah, a band from the Philippines, takes to the stage to perform a mix of popular songs from the past few decades.
Due Forni also often offers wine discounts, so check with the wait staff for any specials.
The restaurant is currently running a special that includes a starter, main course and a drink from the designated menu for 58 yuan (US$9.16). The offer is valid daily from 11:30am to 5pm (except public holidays).
Angelo's
Italian-New York Restaurant & Bar
At the foot of Baoshi Hill, Angelo's is owned by an Italian duo and serves a mix of Italian and New York style dishes.
Benedetto Stella is the co-founder and chef of Angelo's. From Matera in southern Italy, Stella is a Michelin two-star chef and has 15 years of chef and restaurant ownership experience, having run restaurants in Bangkok, Thailand and Shenzhen in Guangdong Province.
The menu includes New York grilled rib eye and sirloin steaks.
There are also some creations that show the chef is trying to appeal to local tastes.
The Peking Duck Pizza (Pichinese on the menu) is a good example. The mixed pizza combines two parts: one half with smoked duck breast and tomato sauce, and the other with mozzarella cheese and Italian ham.
Stella seems to have a good understanding of the locals' preference for mild-tasting food.
Benny's Salad (named after him) contains boiled eggs and not-very-salty Italian ham as well as potatoes, cucumbers and cabbage.
Though he often chooses ingredients locals are more familiar with, Stella also makes authentic Italian dishes. The rice and pasta are al-dente, not soft as Chinese people tend to prefer and the tiramisu is strong as it is made from Italian mascarpone cheese, savoiardi (ladyfinger) and coffee without any water.
Angelo's purchases vegetables from local markets while importing meat and seasonings from Europe and fish from Vietnam and Japan.
Stella says he hopes to open more restaurants around the country.
"Chinese people were not used to McDonald's at the beginning, but it developed so well," he says. "I believe Chinese will like Italian food as well."
Address: No. 6, Lane 2, Baochu Road, (at the foot of Baoshi Hill)
Tel: (0571) 8521-2100
Chef's picks:Benny's Salad, Sole Fish Fillet Sautéed in White Wine Sauce, Home-made Pasta, Parma Pizza, Tiramisu
Address: House 8, 147 Nanshan Road,Xihu Tiandi
Tel: (0571) 8702-6333
Chef's picks:Risotto Stewed with Saffron and Asparagus, Beef Carpaccio with Rucola Leave and Parmesan Cheese, Assortment of Italian Starters and Cured Meats, Classic Italian Pizza
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