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Where it's a capital tea for the tourist
By Yao Minji |
March 13, 2009, Friday
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HANGZHOU'S Longjing tea is as big a tourist attraction as any of the temples, sites or the lake itself these days. Yao Minji explores Maojiabu, another of the tea villages, but one that straddles the divide between tourism and trainquility.
Longjing (Dragon Well) tea is famous in Hangzhou city and is as big a tourist attraction as the many beautiful scenic spots and cultural sites around the city. Dozens of tea houses and plantations are scattered all over the city, but Meijiawu, Longjing and Maojiabu are the three most popular tea villages.
Longjing tea from these three villages is the same - at least for amateurs or tourists who just want a sample of the legend. It's the settings of these villages and their culture and history that set them apart.
Longjing Tea Village is special for its history and culture. It is where the tea originated and tourists can still see the legendary well on top of the hill. It is also convenient, only a few minutes from the West Lake promenade in downtown Hangzhou. On the other hand, it is very commercialized, with tea farmers constantly urging visitors to buy something. Though the hill is gorgeous with tea plantations throughout, it is impossible to ignore the busy road, just outside the village.
Meijiawu is a better place to appreciate nature - only two tourist buses come by every two hours and time flies as one forgets about daily life in this paradise. But it's 30 minutes' drive from downtown Hangzhou and it is almost impossible to get a taxi in the low season. And not that much easier in the high season.
For these reasons Maojiabu deserves a look. This small and quiet area to the west of the West Lake is described as a hidden paradise by those who love it. Others in the crowded tourist scene say it lacks attractions. Maojiabu has both the good and bad features of Longjing and Meijiawu, and has become a local favorite in the past three years.
I have mixed feelings about this village, but I tend more toward the positive. After all, it is always going to be difficult to find a truly quiet and beautiful place in a highly commercialized tourist operation.
It is said that most of the original villagers shared the family name Mao, hence the name Maojiabu, the area for the family of Mao. A peninsula on the west of West Lake, it catches our eyes with its archetypical Chinese architecture, interesting rock formations and hectares of green tea bushes.
As we got nearer, we are diverted by the variety of rocks and water grasses, scattered as if they had been there for centuries. They blend perfectly into the background of old Chinese houses, the typical structures of water towns in southern China.
It all looks like a garden at first sight but less artificially arranged and in a more attractive setting.
Even the air smells different as we walk around.
This is why I find Maojiabu quite enchanting - it truly embodies Hangzhou's reputation as "Heaven on Earth." The city of Hangzhou is a tourist city, but a very special one. In most Chinese tourist cities, the attractions are hidden behind walls and visitors have to pay to see anything.
In Hangzhou, the whole city is the attraction. Any of the temples or even rocks on the hills might have hidden stories to tell. The appeal of Hangzhou lies in its contrast between commercialized tourism and the pleasant surprises visitors can discover in the middle of the apparent commercialism.
Longjing is the commercial side of Hangzhou and Meijiawu is the paradise far removed from such commercialism. Maojiabu, just steps away from the Longjing Tea Village, bridges the two as one of the hidden natural surprises in a commercial area.
Longjing Road in Maojiabu is where its tea houses are gathered, a collection of well-organized, delicate and simple buildings set beside the lake.
We have learned to appreciate the subtlety of Longjing tea and the solitude of the beautiful Meijiawu. We pretended to be tea experts and learned to choose the most expensive teas at the Longjing Tea Village.
At Maojiabu, the tea tastes different again because of the setting. This is a calm and pleasurable experience, not as lost as Meijiawu but quieter than Longjing. It is a moment of peace but we are well aware that the city crowds and the hustle and bustle are not too far away.Editor's PickZui Bai Lou
Address: 69 Longjing Rd, Maojiabu
Tel: (0571)8799-9997
Marks: A relatively more expensive restaurant in the village featuring authentic Hangzhou cuisine. The menu includes some Cantonese and Sichuan dishes. The higher prices are because of its great location just beside the lake. There are some large tables available right next to the lake.
Oriental Red (Dong Fang Hong)
Address: No. 19-21, Xia Maojiabu
Tel: (0571) 8797-0087
Marks: The place looks cheap, and it is cheap, with tasty and fresh farm dishes. It also features some creative dishes, cooked with Longjing tea. There is no point worrying about the out-of-date decor as most visitors sit outside by the lake.
Longjing (Dragon Well) tea is famous in Hangzhou city and is as big a tourist attraction as the many beautiful scenic spots and cultural sites around the city. Dozens of tea houses and plantations are scattered all over the city, but Meijiawu, Longjing and Maojiabu are the three most popular tea villages.
Longjing tea from these three villages is the same - at least for amateurs or tourists who just want a sample of the legend. It's the settings of these villages and their culture and history that set them apart.
Longjing Tea Village is special for its history and culture. It is where the tea originated and tourists can still see the legendary well on top of the hill. It is also convenient, only a few minutes from the West Lake promenade in downtown Hangzhou. On the other hand, it is very commercialized, with tea farmers constantly urging visitors to buy something. Though the hill is gorgeous with tea plantations throughout, it is impossible to ignore the busy road, just outside the village.
Meijiawu is a better place to appreciate nature - only two tourist buses come by every two hours and time flies as one forgets about daily life in this paradise. But it's 30 minutes' drive from downtown Hangzhou and it is almost impossible to get a taxi in the low season. And not that much easier in the high season.
For these reasons Maojiabu deserves a look. This small and quiet area to the west of the West Lake is described as a hidden paradise by those who love it. Others in the crowded tourist scene say it lacks attractions. Maojiabu has both the good and bad features of Longjing and Meijiawu, and has become a local favorite in the past three years.
I have mixed feelings about this village, but I tend more toward the positive. After all, it is always going to be difficult to find a truly quiet and beautiful place in a highly commercialized tourist operation.
It is said that most of the original villagers shared the family name Mao, hence the name Maojiabu, the area for the family of Mao. A peninsula on the west of West Lake, it catches our eyes with its archetypical Chinese architecture, interesting rock formations and hectares of green tea bushes.
As we got nearer, we are diverted by the variety of rocks and water grasses, scattered as if they had been there for centuries. They blend perfectly into the background of old Chinese houses, the typical structures of water towns in southern China.
It all looks like a garden at first sight but less artificially arranged and in a more attractive setting.
Even the air smells different as we walk around.
This is why I find Maojiabu quite enchanting - it truly embodies Hangzhou's reputation as "Heaven on Earth." The city of Hangzhou is a tourist city, but a very special one. In most Chinese tourist cities, the attractions are hidden behind walls and visitors have to pay to see anything.
In Hangzhou, the whole city is the attraction. Any of the temples or even rocks on the hills might have hidden stories to tell. The appeal of Hangzhou lies in its contrast between commercialized tourism and the pleasant surprises visitors can discover in the middle of the apparent commercialism.
Longjing is the commercial side of Hangzhou and Meijiawu is the paradise far removed from such commercialism. Maojiabu, just steps away from the Longjing Tea Village, bridges the two as one of the hidden natural surprises in a commercial area.
Longjing Road in Maojiabu is where its tea houses are gathered, a collection of well-organized, delicate and simple buildings set beside the lake.
We have learned to appreciate the subtlety of Longjing tea and the solitude of the beautiful Meijiawu. We pretended to be tea experts and learned to choose the most expensive teas at the Longjing Tea Village.
At Maojiabu, the tea tastes different again because of the setting. This is a calm and pleasurable experience, not as lost as Meijiawu but quieter than Longjing. It is a moment of peace but we are well aware that the city crowds and the hustle and bustle are not too far away.Editor's PickZui Bai Lou
Address: 69 Longjing Rd, Maojiabu
Tel: (0571)8799-9997
Marks: A relatively more expensive restaurant in the village featuring authentic Hangzhou cuisine. The menu includes some Cantonese and Sichuan dishes. The higher prices are because of its great location just beside the lake. There are some large tables available right next to the lake.
Oriental Red (Dong Fang Hong)
Address: No. 19-21, Xia Maojiabu
Tel: (0571) 8797-0087
Marks: The place looks cheap, and it is cheap, with tasty and fresh farm dishes. It also features some creative dishes, cooked with Longjing tea. There is no point worrying about the out-of-date decor as most visitors sit outside by the lake.
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