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Summer berry lures crowds to Ningbo area
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WAXBERRIES are one of the sweetest, and most fleeting, delights of summer in China. For no more than three weeks in late June and early July, these delicious berries — known as yangmei in Chinese — come into season, brightening areas south of the Yangtze River with their vibrant crimson and deep-purple hues.
Just two hours’ train ride from Shanghai, Ningbo is a mecca for the region’s yangmei lovers. Each year, urbanites descend upon the numerous yangmei plantations which surround this charming coastal city to join in the harvest and indulge their cravings for these ephemeral treats.
The knobby-textured, coin-sized yangmei is also prized for its myriad health benefits. The berry contains high levels of antioxidants and vitamin C, which have been known to strengthen the immune system and aid digestion. Studies have also shown that the fruit can help lower cholesterol levels and blood pressure.
Because of these curative properties, the fruit is a common ingredient in a host of traditional Chinese medicines. And thanks to its sweet flavor and tangy aftertaste, it often figures in wines, teas, desserts and even some savory dishes.
While the exterior of the fruit varies from bright red to dark purple, its flesh is a consistently brilliant shade of deep pink. For first-time eaters, caution is advised when biting into a yangmei. The fruit is surprisingly juicy, and may permanently stain your clothes if you’re not careful. Also, at the center is a hard seed that’s roughly the size of a cherry pit.
Take your pick
Shanghai Daily recently visited Qianli Meixiang (literally birthplace of the berry), in Zhangting Town in the city of Yuyao, about an hour’s drive from Ningbo’s city center. Yuyao also touts itself as “the home of yangmei,” and is a popular destination during harvest season. The berries in this region are known for their large size and deep purple color — two qualities that typify a high quality crop.
Upon arrival in the village, one will be greeted by a cluster of huts, where you can enjoy a simple farm-style lunch and country hospitality from local residents. From this vantage point, the surrounding plantation stretches as far as the eye can see. A single pathway leads past a scenic reservoir into a hilly grove of trees.
Since yangmei only grow in mountainous terrain, at an altitude between 100 and 1,500 meters, a sturdy pair of hiking shoes is highly recommended for the trek up the uneven dirt paths that lead to the harvesting area. Tread carefully while walking in the orchards, as the paths are littered with fruit.
It’s advised to begin your fruit picking adventure early in the morning. It is believed that the darker the yangmei, the sweeter it will be; and the fruit turns bright red when exposed to the sun. An alternative would be to choose shadier areas to pick the darker colored fruits, which are also usually higher up the hilly terrain.
Pick fruits that grow on individual stems rather than in clusters, as they will be bigger in size and probably sweeter. Also, the deeper you go into the plantation, the higher the chances of picking better quality yangmei. Most of the good fruit near the entrance will get picked over quickly by harvesters and other visitors.
Also, fret not about insects when picking yangmei, except for the occasional mosquito. The fruit contains a natural pesticide so insects do not consume them.
The sweetest berry
At the plantations, it is common to see harvesters carrying wooden ladders on their shoulders as they head off into the hills just before daybreak. Many return in the late morning with two heaping baskets attached to a carrying pole perched on their shoulders. Once harvested, the fruits are covered with leaves to prevent drying.
It takes 10 years for a tree to bear fruit. This, coupled with the extremely short harvesting season, makes the fruit considerably pricey, with a kilogram of the fruit costing about 60 yuan (US$9).
The fruit is also honored by festivals, during which food and drinks made from the berry are consumed and sold. In peak season, vendors can be found along country roads selling baskets of yangmei. At that time, it’s also not uncommon to see people boarding inter-city trains with baskets of the fruit.
The popularity of the yangmei has also been gaining traction in the West, where the fruit is added to salads and used in smoothies and jams.
However, as the fruit is extremely perishable, it is difficult to find fresh yangmei outside of China. Most berries sold overseas come in canned or dried forms.
The origins of the yangmei in Chinese culture dates back almost 5,000 years, when people started picking the fruit in the wild. Cultivation began about 2,000 years ago.
Myricarubra, the hardy tree on which the fruit grows on, thrives in the warm humid climate of southwestern China. Yangmei can be found in Zhejiang and surrounding provinces, and even as far south as Yunnan.
Yangmeijiu
A flavored version of baijiu (Chinese spirit), yangmeijiu is made by soaking the fruit in plain baijiu for several days.
Yangmei soup
A sweet broth made with yangmei, pears, tomatoes and honey that’s ideal for toddlers because of its nutritional benefits. It takes about 15 minutes to prepare the dish.
Yangmei tea
Yangmei is left out to dry and infused in traditional Chinese tea leaves to be drunk as a beverage.
If you go
Drive on Hangzhou Bay Bridge (Ningbo direction), then transfer to Shenhai Expressway and drive for 50km, exit at Cicheng County. Transfer to S319 Expressway and drive for 20 minutes and arrive at Zhangting Town.
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