Designer’s quality quest puts enamelware back in fashion
HAVING graduated from Donghua University in fashion design and studied at the Istituto Marangoni in Italy, everyone thought Xie Xian’s future was as a cutting-edge designer. But that was not the career he wanted for himself.
The 27-year-old is one of Jiading’s up-and-coming entrepreneurs and the founder of enamelware brand Jiushen.
Enamelware played an important role in the lives of a whole generation of Chinese people. It was not that long ago when most families had several enamel items, including basins, mugs and bowls.
The domestic manufacturing industry has boomed in the 21st century and other more expensive substitutes have taken the place of enamelware. Although there is now creatively designed enamelware for sale at some hip souvenir shops in Shanghai, to most people, enamelware is no longer part of their everyday life; it’s just a cultural symbol that reminds them of a simpler time.
Xie says he wants to concentrate on making fine quality enamelware that stands out in the market.
“Enamelware is a type of practical and healthy tableware. It’s heat-resistant and doesn’t contain harmful chemicals. The reason for its declining status is that the old enamelware was poorly made and didn’t have any aesthetic value. If I can make enamelware that looks as good as it is practical, I am confident that it will be popular again.”
His father, Xie Dangwei, was the last manager at the Shanghai Jiuxin Enamelware Factory. When Shanghai adjusted its industrial structure at the beginning of the century, the factory disappeared together with other enamelware manufacturers.
Xie started his new company in part to commemorate his father’s old factory as well as the industry that impacted a generation. He intends to inherit, protect and develop the craft.
Xie can’t forget how much his father loved enamelware. “Everything we owned in the kitchen is made of enamel.” These pieces are stored in his current studio, which is remodeled from his childhood home. “I thought it was kind of ridiculous that my dad loved collecting these simple pots and plates,” Xie said.
However, as time went by, the collection grew larger and Xie slowly began to appreciate the beauty of ordinary objects.
Last July, he curated an exhibition for his father in Shanghai’s Changning and Hongkou districts. During the 39 days of the enamelware exhibition, more than 20,000 people came to see the collection and spoke highly of the items on display. “Some visitors came more than once and even offered to buy some pieces,” Xie said.
A trip of to Europe a few years ago opened his eyes about how exquisite enamelware can be. Xie traveled with his girlfriend Gao Huanhuan to Prague, capital of the Czech Republic. The two of them discovered that the locals loved enamel. From kitchenware to decorative hairpins and necklaces, the element of enamel was everywhere. The handmade pieces were delicately designed with unique patterns. “This is the first time that I truly grasped the charm of enamelware,” Xie said.
Since then, Xie developed a habit of searching for interesting local enamelware whenever he’s abroad. “It seems like every piece has its own story to tell.” Xie thinks that enamelware can be more than something that comes off an assembly line. The European artisans’ extra attention to detail is what the Chinese enamelware makers lack right now.
Plans and ambitions
With a clear vision in mind, Xie started planning for his enamelware studio. His girlfriend immediately applauded this idea. “We are both advocates of creative lifestyles and have always wanted to build something from scratch. Now’s our chance,” Gao says.
She asked a friend named Zangzang to be the company’s brand planner. The three young people, together with Xie’s dad, started working on the ambitious project. Although the team members are of different ages and backgrounds, they do share the same goal — to make enamelware with traditional functions and a modern flair.
The first challenge they met was that they were not able to find a quality enamelware factory. Fortunately Xie’s father used his connections before retirement and helped to find a manufacturer in Zhejiang.
Xie oversaw the first trial production. He was extremely strict on quality control. Any inconsistency in the patterns, bubbles in the glaze or uneven colors would result in him abandoning the product and trying all over again. He demonstrated the firing process to the artisans himself. It took him seven times to get the result he wanted.
“I’ve never seen anyone so meticulous about the job,” said one of the experienced artisans.
The market response to the first batch of enamelware exceeded their expectations. “We sold 70 percent of our products in a month.” Nevertheless, Xie was fully aware that the uplifting start was partly due to the demand of companies purchasing New Year presents for their employees.
“We have to keep introducing more original products if we want to stay popular with customers,” Xie says.
His studio has launched two collections of enamelware since the end of last year, which is not a very fast pace for a startup business. But Xie believes he’s doing the right thing by putting extra effort into the creative process rather than rushing to put out more products.
He named the first collection “Harvest,” which draws inspiration from Gao’s trip to Anhui Province. “I saw some flat round split-bamboo baskets in the farmers’ yards. They use the baskets to dry grains in the sun. It was such a satisfying scene.”
When she got back to Shanghai, she immediately designed a pattern that looked like split-bamboo weavings.
The second collection is called “A Flowing World.” The idea came from the recent Dali exhibition in Shanghai. “We want our enamelware to be more imaginative and abstract,” says Xie.
Not all his friends are on board with his desire to make artistic products. They sometimes question his choice of doing what’s different rather than going with what’s trendy. However, in the young entrepreneur’s eyes, the brand’s success is not only about profit. “The essence of designer enamelware lies in its aesthetic interest in the beauty of small things in life.”
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