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12 hours in Jing’an
JING’AN has such a varied landscape of places to go and things to do. From its towering skyscrapers to its hidden back alleys, from its luxury hotels to its sidewalk vendors, there’s probably more than you imagined left to discover.
So if you find yourself at loose ends one day during the holiday season or if you are entertaining guests from out-of-town and want to show them around, we have compiled a 12-hour guide for a fascinating day out.
8:30
Dining with locals
Start the day with a traditional breakfast combo — xiaolongbao (steamed bun) and niurou fensitang (beef with glass noodles soup) at the 71-year-old Wangjiasha (1), an unassuming snack bar on Nanjing Road W.
Xiaolongbao is synonymous with Shanghai snacking.
Wangjiasha’s menu goes beyond that, however. Its specialties include xianrou yuebing (pork-filled mooncake), xiekehuang (fluffy sesame-coated pastry filled with pickled vegetable) and babaofan (steamed sweetened glutinous rice with eight different ingredients). All the dishes are easy for takeaway.
9:00
A historic stroll down Shaanxi Road N.
After such a tasty start, a morning walk hits the spot. Shaanxi Road N. is just 15 minutes way.
Start your journey at Juliet’s Balcony (2), an urban sculpture honoring Shakespeare’s “Romeo and Juliet.”
Not far off are three sites harking back to the 1930s and 40s, when Shanghai gave refuge to about 25,000 Jews fleeing persecution.
A former Jewish residence (3), once home to a wealthy gold trader, has a façade featuring pictures depicting the daily life of the family that once lived there.
Pacific Garden (4) comprises red-brick townhouses built in the early 1920s. Their developer, then Chinese foreign minister Wu Tingfang, used the houses to shelter Jewish refugees free of charge.
The Ohel Rachel Synagogue (5) is another legacy of that era. The ivy-covered, Greek revival-style synagogue was built by tycoon Jacob Sassoon in 1920.
Next, don’t miss the private folding fan gallery (6), hidden in Pacific Garden.
Curator and fan-making master Zhu Zhenyu loves to chat with visitors about the history of these quintessential Chinese items. If you’re lucky, he may invite you to share a cup of tea with him, served in century-old cups. If you want a unique folding fan, you can order one from him.
Attractions on the other side of the street start with the neoclassical Garden House (7), and Nanyang Apartment (8), a concrete structure featuring modern Western-style architecture. Not far from there are traditional shikumen-style Datong Lane (9) and Zizai Lane(10).
If your feet are starting to complain, it’s time for a coffee break. Try Kiwi Coffee (11), opened by a coffee master from New Zealand, or enjoy the California image of Sumerain (12), a popular rendezvous for local expats.
After the break, continue your walk to the nearby English-style garden villa and former residence of Hong Kong tycoon Ho Tung (13).
The villa was designed by Hungarian architect L.E. Hudec, who created more than 60 impressive works in Shanghai. The gate is graced by a huge lintel, and four columns with intricate decoration supporting a balcony on the second floor.
The 74-year-old Grace Church (14) is hidden behind old brick walls and phoenix trees. It’s still one of the most popular churches in Shanghai.
10:30
Shopping from a bygone era
Sightseeing over. Time for some shopping, old-style. Make your way to Longfeng (15), an upscale cheongsam store established 80 years ago. You can buy off-rack one of the beautiful, body-hugging pieces that characterized the height of fashion in the 1930s, or have one tailor-made.
Humsuit (16) next door is a fashionable brand dating back to the 1930s. It’s an ideal place for men to find a quality suit.
11:00
Lunch in the Shanghai tradition
For lunch, stroll to the respected Meilongzhen Restaurant (17), a household name to most Shanghai locals because of its classic cuisine.
The restaurant can easily be spotted by the red wooden gate outside and a colored screen wall decorated with dragons. The inside decor, too, is very imperial China.
Recommended dishes include shizitou (stewed meatballs), Yangzhou gansi (Yangzhou-style dried, sliced bean curd) and Yangzhou fried rice.
For a fusion of East and West, try the nearby Kaisiling (18).
Located on the third floor, this restaurant has adapted popular European dishes to local Chinese tastes. Signature dishes include potato salad and Russian soup, a borscht made with tomatoes and cabbage instead of red beets.
The bakery on the first floor, opened in 1928, offers some unique desserts, including hadou, an oblong pastry with chocolate icing and a custard-cream filling.
12:30
Art tour or Shanghai’s ‘London Eye’
The afternoon starts with two options.
A 10-minute walk takes you to the Shanghai Exhibition Center (19).
Built in 1955, it’s one of the very few reminders left of Soviet influence on Shanghai architecture. The building is modeled on St Petersburg’s Admiralty, with some Chinese political elements embedded in the décor.
Through January 15, art lovers have a treat in store. The center is hosting a French exhibition entitled “Masterpieces from the Pompidou Center 1906-1977.” Admission is 150 yuan (US$21).
The exhibition displays French art through the works of 72 artists. Masterpieces on display include Picasso’s “Muse,” Matisse’s “Blue and Yellow Interior” and Chagall’s “Double Portrait with a Glass of Wine.”
After tour the exhibition, walk across the street for an English-style afternoon tea in the fairy tale-like Moller Villa (20).
The Scandinavian-style villa, completed in 1936, was inspired by the fairy tales of Hans Christian Andersen. The villa features brown and multicolored tiled Gothic and Tudor steeples, gables and spires. It was a gift from British businessman Eric Moller to his daughter. Now, it houses a hotel and restaurants.
From Nanjing Road W. station, take a 10-minute Metro ride to Qufu Road Station. Take Exit 3 and walk 15 minutes to the war memorial museum in the Sihang Warehouse (21).
The venue, alongside Suzhou Creek, was built as a storage areas for banks, but Japanese invaders requisitioned it as a military headquarters during their occupation of Shanghai during World War II.
In the vicinity of the warehouse, Chinese and Japanese soldiers engaged in a fierce four-day battle in 1937. Bullet holes can still be seen in the walls.
The museum is open 9am to 4:30pm every Tuesday to Sunday. There is no admission free.
A 10-minute walk away is Joy City, now famous for the 56-meter-diameter “Sky Ring” (22) Ferris wheel on the roof. It’s been called Shanghai’s version of the famous London Eye.
A single ride lasting about 12 minutes costs 60 yuan during the week and 80 yuan on weekends. But we recommend two trips on the wheel, allowing you to partake of afternoon tea for two, with cakes and coffee, costing 298 yuan.
If you have the time, stop on the eighth floor where craftsmen in workshops will let you try your hand at making a purse, wooden box or cookies.
15:30
Dinosaurs and sculptures
Explore the world around us in the Shanghai Natural History Museum (23).
The new museum holds nearly 290,000 specimens. Attractions include dinosaur models that move and roar, and numerous interactive multimedia displays.
Through February 12, there is a special exhibition entitled “Extinction: Not the End of the World?” on loan from the London Natural History Museum. It explores the more than 99 percent of earth species that no longer roam the planet.
The museum is open from 9am to 5:15pm, closed on Mondays. Admission is 30 yuan for adults. Children under six can enter free of charge.
After the visit, you can tour the Jing’an Sculpture Park (24) or St Teresa Catholic Church (25), about 10 minutes’ walk away.
18:00
Dinning across cultural lines
Head for the bar and restaurant compound called Zhangyuan 99 (26). It’s a popular hangout for expats. Here you can order Italian cuisine at La Casetta or Japanese cuisine at Ootokuya, among other international choices. There are also some boozy venues, like Logan’s Punch and Tap House.
Zhangyuan 99 is a building in the historic Zhangyuan Garden. In the late 1800s and early 1900s, it was a venue for Chinese opera, magic shows, gambling and elegant dining. In 1919, the site was turned into a private residence. Contemporary renovation has given it a new lease on life.
20:00
Shopping tour
A grand finale of the day is to stroll and shop along Nanjing Road W., a top retail destination catering to all tastes and budgets. Neon lights in the shape of snow flakes, Santa Claus dolls and flower dangle from trees along the road, adding a festival touch.
The street is lined with outlets selling luxury watches. The Isetan department store offers a wide array of Japanese brands, from top-name makeup to clothing by the latest and hottest designers. Plaza 66 and CITIC Square cater to those who want to buy extravagance, including international brands. Some big names have flagship shops here, like LV and Bottega Veneta. For those whose pocketbooks run to something more modest, the street also features quality but lower cost merchandize in stores like Zara, H&M and Uniqlo.
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