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Watertown's many treasures reflect an ancient lifestyle
February 27, 2010, Saturday
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Print Edition
Print Edition
THERE are some days when Shanghai just gets to you. Its noise, traffic, smog and general hustle and bustle can feel too intense, and all you would like is a bit of simple sanctuary.
This is where Qibao (literally, "seven treasures") comes in: a small ancient town in Minhang District, just 18 kilometers away from central Shanghai, where street food is abundant and historical artifacts are inescapable.
Its narrow crisscrossing pathways are filled with preserved traditional houses and temples, beautiful gardens and delectable food stalls.
If you want a taste (or several delicious tastes) of an ancient watertown without wanting to travel too far, then look no further.
The quaint town was built during the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1126) and grew into a prosperous business and textile center during the subsequent Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties.
Legend has it that there were seven treasures dotted around the area, hence the town's name.
These included a gold lotus scripture written by an imperial concubine during the 10th century, a magic tree dating back a thousand years, as well as a bronze bell, an iron Buddha, a gold cock, jade chopsticks and a jade axe.
Reconstructed at the start of the century, the town has since blossomed into a popular tourist spot. Yet it still remains relatively small, spanning no more than about 2 square kilometers crossed by two water lanes.
The good news is that getting here is easy and stress-free: simply take Metro Line 9 five stops down from the interchange with Lines 3 and 4 at Yishan Road.
Upon entering the town, there is a small tourist information center and ticket office, where you can buy a day pass for 30 yuan (US$4.40), which will grant you access to the town's major sights.
The first stop will surely be Qibao Temple, which was renovated during the Ming Dynasty, and most recently in 2002. Today, it spans 62.72 hectares, is blended with gardens and historical architecture, and is said to contain the seven treasures after which Qibao is named.
Legend also has it that a revered monk named Jing used to study and interpret scriptures at the temple, reportedly recorded in the inscriptions carved on the aforementioned bronze bell. Equally alluring is the beautiful Wedding Hall, where, during the Ming and Qing dynasties, brides would enter on a sedan with the support of the arms of her future mother-in-law.
Outside, the hall is surrounded by neat gardens and pathways, and inside is the small wedding ceremony hall and bridal chamber decorated in rich red, should you want to step back in time some several hundred years.
A trip to Qibao also means you'll need to traverse through one of its major assets: its food streets. The narrow lanes will be packed with other hungry food lovers, but what you will taste will surely be a pleasure.
Contrary to what your sense of smell may tell you, there will be far more on offer than deep-fried tofu.
Smoked toads
Just some of the other delights will include cakes made from polished glutinous rice (qibao gao), dried tofu wrapped in lotus leaves (hebao doufugan), smoked toads (xunlan hamo) meat skewers, roasted chestnuts, sesame balls, sweetened nuts and a wide variety of dried fruits.
For the non-diabetics amongst us, it's also hard to resist the multitude of glaced fruits served on skewers (tang hulu). Suffice to say, when you come to Qibao, come hungry.
In between refueling yourself, these particular streets have diligently preserved several traditional homes and historical artifacts, as well as hosting a handful of museums and galleries to pass the time.
One early stop is Cricket House, where both cricket displays and live cricket fighting shows are held. Strange, perhaps, but the breeding of these insects has long been a feature of the town's history.
Cricket performances are held each day during the first weeks of May and October.
For the more art-conscious, the Shadowgraph Museum is certainly worth a visit. It hosts some of the town's most illustrious works, including bold portraits and delicate prints used during shadow plays.
This folk art was largely performed in the local dialect and combined illustrious art and music to give it a particular Shanghainese flavor.
For more performance art, the Qibao Theater also hosts several of the distinctive Shanghai operas.
And the art does not stop there. The famous Zhang Chongren's memorial hall contains some of the sculptor's notable works, including an imposing bust of Deng Xiaoping, and photography from Zhang's time spent in Europe with Belgian comics writer Herge.
There is also Zhou's miniature carving house, hosting a vast collection of ornate, miniscule sculptures carved with immense precision. In between these artistic spots are also several souvenir shops selling arts, crafts, antiques and calligraphy works.
Qibao has the allure, tradition and culture of other, more famous locations, such as Suzhou, but without the hordes of tourists.
It has been intelligently preserved, with the history of its worn stone roads, narrow lanes, temples and buildings still visible.
It certainly offers the genuine article if you are looking for a traditional taste of Chinese culture.
And for foodies lamenting the disappearance of Wujiang Road, the street food of Qibao will not disappoint.
Without spending too much time in transit, you can easily reach the quaint lanes of Qibao. In a mere few hours, you will surely be able to refresh yourself from the stress and strain of modern Shanghai life.
This is where Qibao (literally, "seven treasures") comes in: a small ancient town in Minhang District, just 18 kilometers away from central Shanghai, where street food is abundant and historical artifacts are inescapable.
Its narrow crisscrossing pathways are filled with preserved traditional houses and temples, beautiful gardens and delectable food stalls.
If you want a taste (or several delicious tastes) of an ancient watertown without wanting to travel too far, then look no further.
The quaint town was built during the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1126) and grew into a prosperous business and textile center during the subsequent Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties.
Legend has it that there were seven treasures dotted around the area, hence the town's name.
These included a gold lotus scripture written by an imperial concubine during the 10th century, a magic tree dating back a thousand years, as well as a bronze bell, an iron Buddha, a gold cock, jade chopsticks and a jade axe.
Reconstructed at the start of the century, the town has since blossomed into a popular tourist spot. Yet it still remains relatively small, spanning no more than about 2 square kilometers crossed by two water lanes.
The good news is that getting here is easy and stress-free: simply take Metro Line 9 five stops down from the interchange with Lines 3 and 4 at Yishan Road.
Upon entering the town, there is a small tourist information center and ticket office, where you can buy a day pass for 30 yuan (US$4.40), which will grant you access to the town's major sights.
The first stop will surely be Qibao Temple, which was renovated during the Ming Dynasty, and most recently in 2002. Today, it spans 62.72 hectares, is blended with gardens and historical architecture, and is said to contain the seven treasures after which Qibao is named.
Legend also has it that a revered monk named Jing used to study and interpret scriptures at the temple, reportedly recorded in the inscriptions carved on the aforementioned bronze bell. Equally alluring is the beautiful Wedding Hall, where, during the Ming and Qing dynasties, brides would enter on a sedan with the support of the arms of her future mother-in-law.
Outside, the hall is surrounded by neat gardens and pathways, and inside is the small wedding ceremony hall and bridal chamber decorated in rich red, should you want to step back in time some several hundred years.
A trip to Qibao also means you'll need to traverse through one of its major assets: its food streets. The narrow lanes will be packed with other hungry food lovers, but what you will taste will surely be a pleasure.
Contrary to what your sense of smell may tell you, there will be far more on offer than deep-fried tofu.
Smoked toads
Just some of the other delights will include cakes made from polished glutinous rice (qibao gao), dried tofu wrapped in lotus leaves (hebao doufugan), smoked toads (xunlan hamo) meat skewers, roasted chestnuts, sesame balls, sweetened nuts and a wide variety of dried fruits.
For the non-diabetics amongst us, it's also hard to resist the multitude of glaced fruits served on skewers (tang hulu). Suffice to say, when you come to Qibao, come hungry.
In between refueling yourself, these particular streets have diligently preserved several traditional homes and historical artifacts, as well as hosting a handful of museums and galleries to pass the time.
One early stop is Cricket House, where both cricket displays and live cricket fighting shows are held. Strange, perhaps, but the breeding of these insects has long been a feature of the town's history.
Cricket performances are held each day during the first weeks of May and October.
For the more art-conscious, the Shadowgraph Museum is certainly worth a visit. It hosts some of the town's most illustrious works, including bold portraits and delicate prints used during shadow plays.
This folk art was largely performed in the local dialect and combined illustrious art and music to give it a particular Shanghainese flavor.
For more performance art, the Qibao Theater also hosts several of the distinctive Shanghai operas.
And the art does not stop there. The famous Zhang Chongren's memorial hall contains some of the sculptor's notable works, including an imposing bust of Deng Xiaoping, and photography from Zhang's time spent in Europe with Belgian comics writer Herge.
There is also Zhou's miniature carving house, hosting a vast collection of ornate, miniscule sculptures carved with immense precision. In between these artistic spots are also several souvenir shops selling arts, crafts, antiques and calligraphy works.
Qibao has the allure, tradition and culture of other, more famous locations, such as Suzhou, but without the hordes of tourists.
It has been intelligently preserved, with the history of its worn stone roads, narrow lanes, temples and buildings still visible.
It certainly offers the genuine article if you are looking for a traditional taste of Chinese culture.
And for foodies lamenting the disappearance of Wujiang Road, the street food of Qibao will not disappoint.
Without spending too much time in transit, you can easily reach the quaint lanes of Qibao. In a mere few hours, you will surely be able to refresh yourself from the stress and strain of modern Shanghai life.
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