Rare fish breed enjoys comeback
Print Edition
A special festival held late last month in the Songjiang District drew public attention to the rare four-gill perch, also known as the Songjiang perch. The fish has been saved from extinction by artificial breeding.
It is such a delicacy that the fish was served to former US President Richard Nixon during his state visit to China in 1972.
When Queen Elizabeth II visited Shanghai 14 years later, she was not as lucky. None of the fish could be found, even after 300 fishing boats were dispatched to catch one for the royal table.
The weeklong event in Songjiang traced the history of the fish and explained new breeding techniques.
Those wishing to sample the fish were offered meals at a 60-percent discount, and more than 20 elderly residents received gift certificates for the fish.
The freshwater fish has become something of a legend among local residents.
Revived cooking recipe
Traditional methods of cooking the delectable fish have been revived. One of the most popular recipes is four-gill perch braised with mushrooms and ham, which enhance the flavor of the fish.
Measuring about 17 centimeters long, a mature Songjiang perch weigh about 100 grams. The market price for a whole perch is nearly 400 yuan (US$65).
The four-gill perch, which gets its name from the brachial arches that give the illusion of an extra pair of gills, was extolled as one of the four most famous freshwater fish in China as early as the Jin Dynasty (AD 265-420).
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