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A creative expat’s guide to city’s hidden neighborhood gems
SIMON Collins has never been one to stand still. From his early days as a fashion designer in London to serving as Nike’s creative director in Hong Kong and later as dean of the Parsons School of Design in New York, his career has always been defined by creativity, leadership and a restless curiosity. In 2020, he arrived in Shanghai during the pandemic and helped to create the Design Innovation Institute Shanghai (DIIS) on the North Bund.
Today, Collins balances multiple roles — professor at Tsinghua University, chief creative at DIIS, and founder of his consultancy House of Collins — while immersing himself in the rhythm of the city. He lives in a neighborhood where creativity meets everyday life — cycling past sycamore-lined streets, stopping for coffee or catching glimpses of street-style photographers capturing the ever-changing energy just around the corner.
Could you introduce the neighborhood you live in?
At the point where Jing’an and Xuhui districts meet, I live in a shikumen (stone-gated) house tucked away in a quiet lane on Yanqing Road once known for its theatrical residents — some of whom the older neighbors still remember. Just steps from the main street, our lane remains hidden and serene. In recent years, however, the street outside has transformed, drawing lively crowds to pop-ups and celebrity shops. It’s been fascinating to watch this contrast unfold — the calm of our lane against the buzz just beyond.
What’s the best thing about living in this neighborhood?
At night, the neighborhood falls silent, yet there’s always something happening — a new art gallery, a pop-up shop, a restaurant or a café. For many, the junction of Fumin Road and Changle Road is the very epicenter of expat life, with its lively bars and restaurants. People-watching here never disappoints, so much so that street-style photographers are often stationed on the corner, capturing the scene.
What attraction here should not be missed?
Ride a bike and wander through the streets beneath the shade of sycamore trees, admire the architecture, sit outside a café, and watch the world drift past. It’s something I could never grow tired of.
Each person may have different tastes, but they all want a great cafe. What’s your favorite cafe near home?
Manual (15 Yanqing Rd 延庆路15号) is my favorite espresso bar in Shanghai. I love its style and easy, friendly vibe. It’s welcoming to both pets and cyclists, with fold-up stools spilling out onto the pavement where people gather and chat. Much of the furniture is recycled, and the menu is clear and simple — no frills, no extras, just pure style and quality.
Crave (208 Xinle Rd 新乐路208号) is my go-to spot for fresh pastries. By day, it’s a cool restaurant with a breezy outdoor space, and by night, it transforms with a DJ and a great wine selection. But the real star here? The morning pastries — far above the usual standard and absolutely worth seeking out.
Where should someone eat around here?
Cheers Burger (185 Changshu Rd 常熟路185号) — Started by three young women from the neighborhood who simply couldn’t find a local burger spot, this place has since become a social media sensation — but don’t let that put you off. The design concept is brilliant yet feels totally natural. They even hand out padded delivery bags so customers can perch on the street. Every burger comes with a vegetarian option (a big plus for me), and the quality is excellent across the board.
Cantina Agave (A106, 1/F, 291 Fumin Rd 富民路291号1楼A106) — My go-to for Mexican food in Shanghai. Consistently high-quality and dependable, with friendly staff, great margaritas, and a chips-and-salsa selection that always hits the spot. The blackened fish taco is my global favorite — I’ve had Mexican food around the world, and this remains one of the very best.
Flower & Home 花与家 (crossroads between Donghu and Yanqing roads 东湖路延庆路交叉口) — A small selection, but fair prices and they always have my favorite lilies. I know that sounds basic, but really, who doesn’t want their home filled with the fragrance and beauty of fresh flowers?
Fruit Store (23 Yanqing Rd 延庆路23号) — I’ve never spent so much time buying fruit in my life as I do here. They practically kept us going during the pandemic, and even now we stop by almost every night to pick up something fresh and healthy. Run by a warm, friendly crew, the shop simply delivers seasonal quality without any fuss. It even appeared in the movie “B for Busy,” which gave me the chance to show friends around the world a glimpse of my neighborhood and everyday Shanghai life.
Times Remake (271 Fumin Rd 富民路271号) — Upcycled fashion, vintage and workwear. Located in the building that once housed the famed Polo Restaurant, this shop opened a couple of years ago and has since transformed the courtyard into a lively streetwear hub. Frequent pop-ups and events bring in cool brands like Staple New York for short residencies. Run by the enigmatic Da Bao, it’s the kind of place where there’s always something happening.
A hidden gem on Huating Road, Someset (Rm 202, 1284 Huaihai Rd M. 淮海中路1284号202室) is the tailor to know. Pop in for a very reasonably priced made-to-measure shirt — or invest in a high-quality bespoke suit.
Is there a neighborhood place you recommend for a night out or simply a drink after work?
Funkadeli (291 Fumin Rd 富民路291号), of course — ground zero for many expats. It’s a warm, welcoming place where you can always grab a drink and a snack, and see a friendly face. I think the lions flanking the entrance and the general feng shui set the tone for its success — they just get everything right. While many other spots come and go, Funkadeli has been a local favorite for over 12 years, and it’s easy to see why.
Have you made any new discoveries in your neighborhood lately?
A couple of doors down from Funkadeli is Atelier 3, and if you head to the far end and downstairs, you’ll find S-OTTO (inside Atelier 3, 291 Fumin Rd 富民路291号), a luxurious cocktail bar. The space is beautifully designed, like a movie set inspired by a 1960s airport VIP lounge. Quiet corners invite romantic assignations, while the circular bar is perfect for meeting new friends.
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