VAST Jinji Lake scenic area combines a natural waterscape with city life, some relaxed, some buzzing with entertainment. The lake, its streams and its shores, its secluded parks and pavilions, are intertwined with a modern and traditional-style shore development.

It ranges from tranquil zones for strolling and cycling to an entertainment zone with a huge Ferris wheel, amusement park, entertainment with restaurants, clubs, cafes and bars, all glitter at night.

Old Suzhou is famous for classical Chinese gardens of bridges and flowing water, as well as narrow, cobbled streets lined with traditional architecture of whitewashed walls and dark gray roof tiles. Some of this, and modern interpretations, are found in the new Jinji Lake shore redevelopment.

The scenic area is the core of the Suzhou Industrial Park (SIP) in the eastern part of the city in Jiangsu Province.

The name Jinji or Golden Rooster comes from a legend that a golden rooster once fell from the sky into a boat on the lake and was saved by a fisherman. In gratitude, the rooster bestowed on the lake a magical food grain that sustained fish and aquatic animals, so that the lake teemed with life and the fisherman became rich.

Today, the 11-square-kilometer-lake is a recreational destination and landmark created by what the chief architect calls his "unconventional idea."

In 1997 the lake's east bank was identified as the core site of the Suzhou Industrial Park. Design, planning and engineering firm AECOM, as its first project in China, was required to upgrade the landscape in a short time. It grew into a major shoreline redevelopment.

"We were not satisfied to just improve the greening on the east bank. We'd want to make it iconic," said AECOM's chief executive in China, Sean Chiao. "Designers are always unconventional."

The firm undertook a larger project of revitalizing the east, west and south banks.

"Intertwining the lake with city life and transport, we try to find new excitement and impulses for urban life," Chiao said. "Each year I come back, there's something new."

The promenade

A pleasant day on Jinji Lake begins from the promenade on the left (west) bank where time seems to slow, flowing quietly, like the water. The 1.6-km promenade links the natural landscape with city life, providing plenty of space for morning exercises, bicycling and strolling.

Drawing a diagonal line on the lake from northeast to southwest, "the upper part is dynamic and vigorous, while the lower part is more tranquil and elegant," Chiao told Shanghai Daily.

For the promenade, planners combine waterscape and city life "in a succinct but modern way.

"However, we didn't just copy the classic Suzhou garden that intertwined with stone bridges and water. Instead, we used a more Western approach to make it modern, even masculine, to some extent," Chiao said.

Common railings were replaced by concrete banks and wooden walkways are extended over the water to bring people closer to the water. The footpath has two levels and the angles and views change.

"There are also hints or metaphors for Suzhou gardens," said Chiao, referring to the use of colors black, gray and white, cobblestone paths and flagstone pavement, as well as some design ideas that are typical in Suzhou gardens.

"We managed to combine dynamics with statics, views with viewers," he said.

Small secluded retreats or gardens, such as Xiangzhang (Camphor Tree) Park on the left bank, and red maple wooded areas on the east balance the scale of different scenery. Roads are removed from the lake to reduce vehicles and promote low-carbon living.

"We'd like to encourage a growing trend of short-distance vacations for which you attach your bicycle to your car, drive to the site and cycle around," Chiao said.

On weekend nights, the City Plaza on the promenade is crowded with people watching the music fountain, laser lights and erupting flames.

In 2003 the promenade was recognized for excellence by the American Society of Landscape Architects.

Right (east) bank

On the right bank are the busiest shopping and entertainment destinations in Suzhou Industrial Park, appealing to all ages. The Ferris Wheel Park amusement area includes a merry-go-round, roller coaster, flying swing, sea rover and other rides.

The Ferris wheel itself is built on water and said to be the world's largest such wheel on water. It stands 120 meter high, as high as a 60-story building.

A ride takes around 30 minutes, is very smooth and offers a panoramic view of Jinji Lake with dozens of yacht in a right-bank harbor and the mid-lake Peach Blossom islet shrouded in mist.

A single 80-yuan (US$13) ticket allow free access to five items in the park, including the Ferris wheel.

North of the amusement park is Harmony Times Square, a haunt for shopaholics. Walking along the zigzag steel bridge connecting a high-end department store with a walking street of mid-range stores, I was struck by the landscape design that introduces a river/canal from Jinji Lake to open up the enclosed square and create a relaxing waterfront dining area.

Twenty meters above the street, a giant LED skyscreen is illuminated at night. The 500-meter-long screen looks like a lustrous ribbon flowing in the air. During the day, the European-style plaza is full of newly-wed couples posing for wedding photos. After 5pm, the waterfront terrace is already packed with diners.

The stunning night view includes the right bank, the illuminated "small bird's nestle," the Suzhou Cultural and Arts Center, and the Ferris wheel in a distance. I was pleasantly lost in the night breeze, filled with enticing Indian spices from a restaurant and melodious jazz.

Ligong Causeway

Compared with the centuries-old landscapes of Taihu Lake in Jiangsu Province and West Lake in neighboring Zhejiang Province, rejuvenated Jinji Lake is a newborn.

The 1,400-meter-long Ligong Causeway on the south bank has the longest history, dating back to 1899 when it was constructed as a breakwater to protect fishermen.

It was named after the official Li Chaoqiong who built it and a stele describing the project was placed in one of two pavilions, one at each end. It was lined with willow trees. Years after the pavilions collapsed, the stele sank into the lake but was salvaged for the restoration project.

Today Ligong Causeway has become a popular entertainment destination with bars, cafes, clubs, live entertainment, restaurants and boutiques.

Each section is built in a different style. The first two sections are filled with bars and restaurants, yet the later is a traditional-style, cobblestone walking street. It is lined with Suzhou-style buildings.

The style suits the Chinese restaurants and tea houses but it's incongruous to find German bars, French and Italian restaurants in traditional Chinese-style wooden structures. But it's best to be open-minded and at night it all comes together as crowds flock to savor local cuisines, teppanyaki, Indian curry, and Italian pasta, to name a few. Live music pours from the bars.

The third section is designed in modern European style, featuring a kaleidoscopic of cafes, boutiques and museums. There you can find one of the trendiest cafes in Suzhou, a creative vegetarian restaurant, tattoo parlors and nightclubs. There are private museums displaying intricate Suzou embroidery, stone carving, porcelain and contemporary oils by young Chinese artists. You can also buy a Harley Davidson or a BMX bike.How to get there

High-speed rail and bullet trains between Shanghai and Suzhou take around 25 minutes to Suzhou Industrial Park Railway Station. A cab to Jinji Lake takes 10 to 15 minutes. Metro Line 1 stops at the Suzhou Culture and Arts Center Station on the right bank of Jinji Lake, and The Gate of the Orient Station on the left bank.

Tips

Plan beforehand. The lake is large so there?s no way to tour in a day. Only Suzhou residents with documentation can rent free public bikes at spots around the lake. While bicycle renting is planned, currently you need to bring your own bike if you want to cycle around the lake. Water taxis operate between Moon Harbor (left bank), Ligong Causeway (south bank) and the west bank (the promenade). Tickets cost 20 yuan per trip. Night cruises operate Friday to Sunday departing at 7pm and 7:45pm on the west bank. Trips last 45 minutes. Free trams run along Ligong Causeway between 10am and 9pm, stopping at 13 sites where visitors can hop on and off.

Where to stay

Kempinski Hotel Suzhou

The five-star hotel has a spectacular view of both Jinji Lake adjoining Dushu Lake and is ideal for both business and pleasure. Ligong Causeway is nearby, as is a 27-hole golf course. Service is child-friendly. It has three restaurants and two bars. Fusion food and German delicacies are recommended.

Tel: (0512) 6289-7888

Address: 1 Guobin Rd



InterContinental Suzhou

On the busy right bank of Jinji Lake, the hotel is within easy walking distance of both the Suzhou International Expo Center and the Suzhou Cultural and Arts Center. It?s a short walk from busiest shopping and entertainment destinations, including Harmony Times Square, Jiuguang Department Store and Moon Harbor. Guest rooms are spacious, with elegant decor. Its Sky Lounge on the terrace has an extensive wine menu and panoramic view of Jinji Lake, lovely on hot summer nights.

Tel: (0512) 6285-8888

Address: 288 Wangdun Rd



Crowne Plaza Suzhou

Shaped like a luxurious cruise liner docked on the left bank of Jinji Lake, the five-star hotel is opposite the renowned Gate of the Orient. Rooms are arranged like cruise cabins and lakefront views are spectacular. Nearby is the tranquil Xiangzhang Garden, as well as the landscaped promenade. An outdoor swimming pool is connected by a path with Jinji Lake.

Tel: (0512) 6761-6688

Address: 168 Xinggang St