Gaultier runway debut in China
By Yang Di |
May 18, 2012, Friday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
French fashion icon Jean Paul Gaultier made his China debut last Friday with a runway show at the Chaoyang Museum of Urban Planning.
From satin-sheen embellished cocktail dresses, velvet gowns and signature corsets to urban-inspired leather jackets and colorful fur capes, the show was specially styled and devised by the designer himself. Some 60 pieces were selected from Gaultier's recent haute couture collection and a cross section from his autumn/winter 2012-13 men's and women's pr锚t-a-porter.
The women's ready-to-wear pieces were all about upscale furs and perfect tailoring, mixed up with street culture and a rebellious streak. Inspired by 1960s New York and its subculture, the designer presented a tough-girl look with luxe add-ons, graffiti prints and slick metallic accents.
Graffiti is the season's leitmotif, often as unexpected intrusions on the ensembles. Deconstructed leather jackets made their return, appearing alongside ultra-tailored suits in exotic snakeskin. There were also big blouson sleeves, while oversized fur coats in shocking bright colors gave off a flamboyant carnival vibe. Throughout with the ready-to-wear pieces, a diversity of fabrics are layered to create a compression of draped fabrics, tulle and detailed tailoring.
As with the women's collection, Gaultier stays true to the importance of combining different textures for his men's range. The collection is an ode to the streets of London, the lanes and alleys between Scotland Yard - home to the Metropolitan Police - and the bad boys of the back streets.
With cool grey, black, charcoal, hazelnut and orange as the main colors, the style is centered on the clash of worlds in opposition - creating vagabond dandies in a mix of classical tailoring with dressed-down influences. Some of Gaultier's iconic pieces are reinterpreted, including the kilt, skirts for men and leather pants.
Longtime Gaultier muse and model Tanel Bedrossiantz appeared on the Beijing runway, bringing the special presence that has graced Gaultier's shows since 1985.
The show reached its climax with Gaultier's homage to the late Amy Winehouse, the muse for his spring couture collection, which is defined by the gritty-yet-ladylike style Winehouse was famous for.
As smoking models sauntered down the runway in quintessential Winehouse style - complete with upswept beehives, sharply-drawn cat-eye makeup and beauty spots - to the accompaniment of Winehouse's classic "Rehab,'' the spirit of the tragic diva could be keenly felt.
Closing the show to loud applause was androgynous male model Andrej Pejic, wearing a Winehouse-inspired embellished cocktail dress with molded hips and bust. For the past few seasons, Gaultier has taken gender-transcending dynamo Pejic as his muse.
Gaultier's runway show was quirky and joyful and he appeared to enjoy himself enormously, running out and waving to the audience the length of the catwalk.
Gaultier is not a classically trained designer but his wild creations - from conical bras to makeup for men - have courted controversy and made him one of fashion's most respected names.
On the evidence of the Beijing show, even after 42 years in the industry, Gaultier - ever the adventurous, provocative, fun character - has no plans to slow down.
From satin-sheen embellished cocktail dresses, velvet gowns and signature corsets to urban-inspired leather jackets and colorful fur capes, the show was specially styled and devised by the designer himself. Some 60 pieces were selected from Gaultier's recent haute couture collection and a cross section from his autumn/winter 2012-13 men's and women's pr锚t-a-porter.
The women's ready-to-wear pieces were all about upscale furs and perfect tailoring, mixed up with street culture and a rebellious streak. Inspired by 1960s New York and its subculture, the designer presented a tough-girl look with luxe add-ons, graffiti prints and slick metallic accents.
Graffiti is the season's leitmotif, often as unexpected intrusions on the ensembles. Deconstructed leather jackets made their return, appearing alongside ultra-tailored suits in exotic snakeskin. There were also big blouson sleeves, while oversized fur coats in shocking bright colors gave off a flamboyant carnival vibe. Throughout with the ready-to-wear pieces, a diversity of fabrics are layered to create a compression of draped fabrics, tulle and detailed tailoring.
As with the women's collection, Gaultier stays true to the importance of combining different textures for his men's range. The collection is an ode to the streets of London, the lanes and alleys between Scotland Yard - home to the Metropolitan Police - and the bad boys of the back streets.
With cool grey, black, charcoal, hazelnut and orange as the main colors, the style is centered on the clash of worlds in opposition - creating vagabond dandies in a mix of classical tailoring with dressed-down influences. Some of Gaultier's iconic pieces are reinterpreted, including the kilt, skirts for men and leather pants.
Longtime Gaultier muse and model Tanel Bedrossiantz appeared on the Beijing runway, bringing the special presence that has graced Gaultier's shows since 1985.
The show reached its climax with Gaultier's homage to the late Amy Winehouse, the muse for his spring couture collection, which is defined by the gritty-yet-ladylike style Winehouse was famous for.
As smoking models sauntered down the runway in quintessential Winehouse style - complete with upswept beehives, sharply-drawn cat-eye makeup and beauty spots - to the accompaniment of Winehouse's classic "Rehab,'' the spirit of the tragic diva could be keenly felt.
Closing the show to loud applause was androgynous male model Andrej Pejic, wearing a Winehouse-inspired embellished cocktail dress with molded hips and bust. For the past few seasons, Gaultier has taken gender-transcending dynamo Pejic as his muse.
Gaultier's runway show was quirky and joyful and he appeared to enjoy himself enormously, running out and waving to the audience the length of the catwalk.
Gaultier is not a classically trained designer but his wild creations - from conical bras to makeup for men - have courted controversy and made him one of fashion's most respected names.
On the evidence of the Beijing show, even after 42 years in the industry, Gaultier - ever the adventurous, provocative, fun character - has no plans to slow down.
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