People in northeast China, especially country people, are typically earthier and more direct than their more refined cousins in the south. And their rustic, robust humor reflects it. Chen Ye takes in a show.

When it comes to comedy, Beijing has its xiangsheng or crosstalk and Shanghai has its huajixi or farce. And what do they have in northeast China where people are more plainspoken, to put it politely?

There, the signature comedic fare is er ren zhuan, a man-woman folk dance, song and joke routine that contains a bit of slapstick and down-to-earth, frequently frisky, bawdy humor. It's a must-see for visitors to Harbin and other northeastern cities.

Arising in the 18th century, it is hugely popular, dealing with love, marriage, sex, daily life and some traditional tales. There's lots of audience interaction and though it's in dialect, everyone gets the meaning.

In a not-atypical scene, a man reaches out to touch his girlfriend's breast - and she slaps him hard. The audience howls and it is pretty funny. It's understandable that many er ren zhuan performers are married couples.

Performers wear outlandish, clashing, mixed-up costumes, maybe a Scottish kilt and an embroidered Chinese jacket, or a Western suit jacket and pantaloons, a ballerina's tutu and qipao top. A Peking Opera robe might be worn over flashy checked pants and funny shoes.

Refined southerners predictably turn up their noses and call it coarse and vulgar, and there are more tasteful renditions of this rural folk theater presented by official theatrical troupes with fancy, satin costumes that are still unusual.

But that's not the real grassroots deal.

Every night throughout Harbin, capital of Heilongjiang Province, there are numerous er ren zhuan performances in pubs, restaurants and on the street.

The shows usually involve fancy folk dance footwork by the girls who gesture with red handkerchiefs as they dance and twirl around.

There's a saying in northeastern China about this humor: "We would rather give up our three meals than our song-and-dance duets."

The routines are also known as "Sound/Music of the Black Earth," referring to the famously rich black soil of China's northeast.

"My girlfriend and I come from the same village, and every night we work at different restaurants," says chunky 20-year-old performer Wang Xiaopang (Fat Little Wang) who wears a white Chinese-style vest and dark blue trousers.

"Harbin locals usually give us bottles of beer and packs of cigarettes to celebrate and say thanks," says Wang who likes to be called "fatty" because that way people remember him.

Performers

The most famous er ren zhuan performers are trained in professional er ren zhan schools, and some like Wang learn from videos and from teachers in their village. Wang says he never knows what to expect. Sometimes the audience cheers but sometimes they are cruel, making crude fun of his girlfriend or demanding he drink a whole bottle of beer in five seconds.

"I take it all in because I love what I do and I'm confident er ren zhuan will become more popular," Wang says.

The song-and-dance sketches became famous nationally about 10 years ago when Zhao Benshan, a famous skit and sitcom actor, staged an er ren zhuan number during the CCTV Spring Festival Gala Show.

The repertoire includes traditional sketches such as "Pig Baijie Jumps Over a Field," "Sprinkle Water Before the Horse," "Bao Gong Settles a Lawsuit," "Tryst in the West Wing" and modern scenes such as "Divorced Husband and Wife," "The Old Man Carries His Wife on the Back," "Husband and Wife Drop By" and "Harvest Bridge."

Harbin is known for its bitterly cold winters with heavy snow, and most people call the capital of Heilongjiang Province China's "Ice City."

There are many European buildings in Harbin, which is known as an architectural showcase of many styles, notably Russian. It was home to immigrants and business people from around the world. Many Russians fled the 1917 Revolution and went to Harbin.

Harbin is sometimes called "Oriental Moscow."

Harbin was the birthplace of the Kin (1115-1234) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. The city was home to more than 30 ethnic minorities.

Many people visit in the winter because of the ice sculpture festival and winter carnival, but there are also reasons to visit in summertime.

St Sophia Cathedral, a Russian orthodox Church, is one of the few remaining Orthodox churches in the city.

Located on the corner of Daolin and Zhaolin streets, it was completed in 1907 and is now a museum of architecture, containing photographs of old Harbin.

Sometimes a local choir of middle-aged people sings "red" revolutionary songs and old Russian songs in the cathedral.

"Old pictures remind people of the past," says Zhang Xiulian, a 56-year-old retired woman who wears a deep-red cheongsam (fitted dress) and performs in the cathedral twice a week.

From 1997 the cathedral became the Harbin Architectural Art Gallery displaying the multi-cultural architectural development of the city. The photo exhibition covers Harbin's colorful history and people.

The city itself is a museum of architectural styles and many of the buildings are well preserved.

Silver street

Zhongyang Street is a good place to sightsee and find something to eat.

Originally built in 1898, the street was first called China Street and featured a mixture of Chinese and European architecture. Buildings are classical, neoclassical, Renaissance, eclectic and modern. The street represents 300 years of European history.

The 1,450-meter-long street runs from the Flood Control Monument south to Jingwei Street. It has more than 800 shops and restaurants.

Every evening, folk musicians and local singers perform by the colorful lights of Zhongyang Street, a reminder that the biannual Harbin Summer Music Concert is opening on August 6-15.

The street, paved with cobblestones, used to be called Silver Street. It was built in 1924 by a Russian engineer and at that time one granite cobblestone cost one silver dollar, enough to sustain a family for a week.

Zhongyang Street was originally paved with 870,000 granite cobblestones approximately 18cm by 10cm, which represents a lot of silver.

In 1997 it became a protected pedestrian street and has been given awards for historical preservation.

The street is a landmark for commerce, tourism and leisure.

At one end of the street is Songhua River Flood Control Monument, commemorating victims of the devastating floods in 1998.

Stalin Park, built in 1953, is a public park where people jog and exercise, stroll and enjoy sculpture.

Visitors can also cross the Songhua River Bridge to visit the Sun Island on the other side.

The Sun Island, opposite downtown Harbin, provides a nice spot to view the Songhua River. It's so placid in summer that it's difficult to imagine it can turn into a torrent.

Russian Town, filled with charming Russian architecture, is a must-visit destination on the Sun Island. It's filled with villas, and visitors can see how the Russian community lived in the last century and before.

Stores sell numerous types of matryoshka, or sets of Russian nesting dolls. Some represent the Russian leadership. There are even adult-size statues of matryoshka dolls. Other dolls, some looking like chubby Russian aunties, are also available.

Young Russian guides show visitors around, speaking excellent Mandarin; most Russians in Harbin speak fluent Mandarin.

Sun Island is a peaceful place with rustic charm and thick forests. It has white, sandy beaches where visitors can sunbathe.

Bicycles can also be rented, including those for two and for three riders.

The Snow Sculpture Garden on the Sun Island covers more than 3,000 square meters. In winter, it contains statues of famous snow sculptures, including many award-winners such as "The Happy Peasant Family," "The Hero of Flying Snow," "Swan Dancing" and "Mother's Love."

Near the garden is a huge white sculpture sene of more than 30 sheep and a shepherdess playing a flute. Harbin people say the sculpture was built as a prayer for prosperity and happiness.

The Siberian Tiger Park quite near Sun Island is a top-level national tourist attraction in the city's Songbei District.

It covers 1.4 million square meters and contains more than 800 Siberian tigers of all ages.

It is not only a tourist site where people can feed tigers and learn about preservation, but also a conservation research and breeding center.

What to do in the northeast

In winter

Harbin International Snow and Ice Festival

Every year starting on January 5, the fantastic ice sculpture, snow lanterns and entertainment draw crowds from around the world.

Sun Island International Snow Sculpture Art Fair

Address: Sun Island

Open: 8am-5pm

Admission: 240 yuan (US$37.75) for adults, 120 yuan for students

Ice and Snow World

Address: Western side of Sun Island

Open: 9am-9:30pm

Tickets: 300 yuan for adults, 160 yuan for students

In summer

Harbin Summer Music Concert

The music bash, to be held on August 6-15, attracts famous bands and singers.

Harbin International Beer Festival

The week-long beer festival, a fun fixture in the summertime, is held every year in late August. Famous Harbin Beer and other beers are available. There's plenty of entertainment and competitions.

Scenic sites

St Sophia Cathedral

Address: Corner of Daolin and Zhaolin streets,

Architecture Art Plaza

Open: Daily, 8am-5pm

Admission: 20 yuan

Sun Island

Address: North bank of the Songhua River

Open: Daily, 8am-6pm

Admission: 30 yuan

Russian Town

Address: On Sun Island

Open: Daily, 8am-6pm

Admission: 60 yuan

Zhongyang Street

Address: From the Flood Control Monument to Jingwei Street

Admission: Free

Siberian Tiger Park

Address: 88 Songbei Street

Open: Daily, 9am-4:30pm

Admission: 90 yuan for adults, 45 yuan for kids 1.1m-1.4m.

What to eat and see in Harbin

Harbin food is hearty and filling and there's lots of variety because of influences from Russia, Mongolia, North Korea as well as other parts of China. Because it's cold up north, people need a lot of calories for energy.

Zhongyang Street is the best place to find all kinds of food.

Staples

Jiaozi, or Chinese dumplings stuffed with meat, is a staple, and there's lots of cabbage, potatoes, cucumber and corn.

On Zhongyang Street, the Oriental Dumpling King is highly recommended. The menu has a variety of jiaozi with stuffings not found in Shanghai.

Da lie ba, the Chinese pronunciation of Russian word "khleb," or bread, is famous Russian-style big bread, shaped into rounds and weighing as much as 2.5kg. The crust is crisp and the inside is soft.

Su he li is another kind of bread said to be good for digestion.

Dishes

Chicken braised with mushrooms is a famous dish in northeast China, available in most restaurants and also found in Shanghai restaurants specializing in northeastern food.

Guo bao rou (literally "wok wrapping meat") is a sweet-and-sour pork. The meat is fried and then a candy sauce is poured on the pork, which tastes sweet and lemony.

Highly recommended is Dongbei Da Yuan restaurant with a variety of dishes and interesting life shows.

Every night there's a regular "red song" performance in which waiters and waitresses change into traditional army uniforms and put on a song and dance show. The restaurant's decor has a revolution theme.