Isle of women threatened by rural decline
For centuries on a small, forested island in the Baltic Sea, women in headscarves and striped red skirts have done most of the work: from farming to lighthouse keeping, leading church services and even dressing up as Santa at Christmas.
The men of Kihnu island, 10 kilometers off the coast of Estonia, are away sea fishing for weeks or months at a time, leaving the women to run what is often dubbed one of the last matriarchal societies in Europe.
Steeped in folk traditions, Kihnu鈥檚 historic way of life however is now threatened as economic hardship drives more and more islanders away in search of work.
鈥淎round every kitchen table, every day, we discuss how to survive,鈥 Mare Matas, official guide and ardent defender of Kihnu鈥檚 heritage, said.
Although 686 people are registered as living on the island, only 300 now do so year-round, said Matas, a 45-year-old mother of four who was instrumental in securing UNESCO recognition of Kihnu鈥檚 intangible cultural heritage in 2008.
Since the global economic crash hit Estonia hard that year, the island鈥檚 year-round population has halved.
The island of 16 square kilometers has only a few paved roads, two small food shops, a museum, church and primary school with 36 children, down from over 100 some years ago.
Kihnu life still revolves around ancient folk traditions and songs, a unique culture which UNESCO describes as a 鈥渕asterpiece of oral and intangible heritage of humanity.鈥
鈥淲e are going to lose it if people don鈥檛 live here any more,鈥 Matas said. 鈥淲e don鈥檛 know what to do.鈥
Sea invaders
鈥淪eals and cormorants, they鈥檙e the biggest problem,鈥 fisherman Margus Laarents said.
The two species were given protected status by the European Union after almost dying out during the middle of the last century due to over hunting.
As a result, their numbers skyrocketed in Estonian waters since the mid-1980s, depleting local fish stocks. Other studies blamed commercial over fishing and water pollution for the shrinking fish populations.
A 2010 study found that catches of perch had fallen in size ten-fold over a decade, while roach catch sizes were a hundred times smaller.
Margus and his wife Marge say they can no longer live off their earnings from the sea.
Like many, the couple sustain themselves by keeping animals and growing food, although many fishermen have left altogether, in search of construction work in Norway or Finland.
At their weekly coffee morning, 12 of Kihnu鈥檚 older residents exchange news, gossip and memories around a table of salted herring, biscuits and chocolates. Today鈥檚 chat turns to how the men are on the island much more nowadays, doing jobs which used to be done by women.
Years ago, recalls 68-year-old Merasse Salme, the sight of her husband Oskar helping out with agricultural work on the island would turn heads.
鈥淥skar was one of the first men who came to work in the fields,鈥 she said.
鈥淚t made us all laugh to see a man working the land,鈥 another chuckled.
But since then, men have turned away from fishing and it鈥檚 no longer rare to see them farming to help support their families. Tourism has also become an important source of income for both men and women, but only during the three months of summer.
Up to 30,000 visitors a year 鈥 about half from Estonia and many others from Europe or Asia 鈥 come to experience Kihnu鈥檚 untouched way of life.
With no hotels or restaurants, a number of islanders put up guests in their homes.
Another traditional Kihnu livelihood is weaving clothes and knitting intricately patterned mittens or socks. But Mare Matas says that selling handicrafts is no longer a profitable way to make a living, given the availability of mass-produced clothing now.
鈥淎ll those things which were always important are not so important any more,鈥 she said.
Gender roles may have blurred, but one job still lies squarely with the women: keeping Kihnu鈥檚 centuries-old culture alive.
With the men away at sea, tradition dictates that the island鈥檚 women must organize Kihnu鈥檚 many festivals, as well as funerals and weddings 鈥 all elaborate, ancient ceremonies sometimes involving many days of singing, dancing and pre-Christian rituals.
During a Kihnu wedding, the bride鈥檚 head is covered with a white cloth edged in red 鈥 signifying supernatural protection 鈥 until she reaches the house of the groom.
Folk singing and fiddle or accordion playing are indispensible skills for the island鈥檚 women, many of whom still wear the traditional red striped Kihnu skirt every day.
Folk singer Virve Koster is Kihnu鈥檚 most famous daughter.
Aged 92 but still touring the country performing, Koster is often said to embody the indefatigable spirit of Kihnu鈥檚 women. From her living room, decorated with awards and memorabilia, Koster recounts her years of toil in the freezing sea boxing up herring or ploughing fields with nothing but woollen socks on her feet.
鈥淓verything has been hard,鈥 she said.
But she found joy and fame through her 400 songs, about island life, nature and, most of all, love. Koster insists her music belongs to the whole community, a source of unity and hope for the island.
鈥淢y songs become more joyful every day,鈥 she said.
鈥楴ew world鈥
Standing at the foot of the 150-year-old lighthouse鈥檚 iron spiral staircase, its keeper Elly Karjam says that EU money has helped make life easier.
鈥淭he harbor and airport are in order, now they鈥檙e fixing the sewer system, there鈥檚 an Internet connection,鈥 she said.
However, she worries that Kihnu needs a home for the elderly, given the lack of young people to care for them. Although many islanders have left Kihnu, some are returning.
Violin teacher Maria Michelson moved back after university, and now schools the island鈥檚 children, passing Kihnu鈥檚 musical heritage on to them.
She says the Internet and a new twice-daily ferry to the mainland have revolutionized life here but wonders where that will leave Kihnu鈥檚 traditional way of life.
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