Autumn is a perfect time to visit Provence because the summer crowds are gone, the heat subsides, the countryside dons new colors and the wine harvest begins. It's a perfect time to stroll in ancient cities. Yang Di reports.

There are some places you just can't help but fall in love with at first sight and Provence, the southern region of France, is one of them.

With its bewitching natural beauty such as rippling fields of lavender, the region is filled with tourists during summer.

Come October, the crowds disperse and visitors can wander in the countryside, stroll the pleasant streets of Aix-en-Provence, enjoy Mediterranean cuisine in hilltop villages and dig into the medieval history in Avignon.

There is beauty throughout Provence, but for first time visitors, Aix-en-Provence and Avignon should be on the list.

If Paris is a woman in haute couture, Aix-en-Provence can be an easy-going girl next door, stylish and laid-back.

Just 30 kilometers north of Marseilles, Aix is captivating, filled with quaint streets and hundreds of fountains. One can spend hours without tiring, ambling through lanes and browsing small shops, hunting for home furnishings in southern French style, sipping coffee, tasting traditional calisson cookies and watching people from a sidewalk cafe.

Aix was founded by a Roman consul in 123 BC and became famous for its hot springs and Roman baths.

But it was in a strategic part of the Roman Empire and the scene of battles, conquests and occupations involving Germanic tribes, Franks and Lombards; it was occupied by the Saracens in AD 731 and by Charles Martel in AD 737.

It was the capital of Provence from the 12th century until the French Revolution.

It was a university town for centuries and home of major figures in arts and letters. Paul Cezanne was its most famous resident painter and the surrounding countryside inspired some of his greatest works. The sun-drenched city was a favorite of Emile Zola and Ernest Hemingway.

The cultural ambience is pervasive and universities in the city give it a youthful feel, especially when groups of students gather outside bars and cafes in evenings.

Rich in history and local tradition, Aix is considered one of the finest examples of Provencal style of architecture with honey-colored stone facades.

Most hotels and the tourist office give out free maps of the significant landmarks that can best be appreciated on relaxed walks. Just wandering is often the best way to discover a place and enjoy the surprises.

The medieval old town contains Cathedrale Saint-Sauveur on the site of a Roman forum near a Roman road. It has witnessed the development of Christianity since the year AD 408. Across the street from the cathedral is the first building of the University of Provence, founded in the 15th century. It now hosts the Institute of Political Science.

The old town is a network of narrow, winding streets and many architectural gems. The streets are lined by shops, restaurants and cafes.

After a tour of the old town, visitors can see the majestic Cours Mirabeau, once a street for horse-drawn coaches created in 1649. One of the most dynamic places in Aix, the 440-meter long and 420-meter wide street has wide sidewalks lined with plane trees. The famous La Rotonde fountain is situated at one end of the street.

Aix stays close to its origins: Sextius Waters, named after Roman consul Sextius Calvinus who founded the town. Not only is the city still a thriving thermal resort, but also features fountains in almost every square.

During summer, visitors enjoy the Festival International d'Art Lyrique d'Aix-en-Provence, an annual festival mainly dedicated to opera. It has become famous in opera circles since 1948.

Nearby is Les Baux-de-Provence, a rustic, picturesque village that epitomizes the French countryside.

Avignon

An hour's drive from Aix, Avignon is a mini-metropolis full of history, culture and art.

A medieval city on the south bank of the Rhone River, Avignon was once home to popes during the Avignon Papacy from 1309-78. Popes Benedict XII and Clement VI built the towering palace on a hill along the northern ramparts and it is now the landmark in the historic center of the city. Pope Clement V, who was French and backed by the French monarch, moved to the papacy to Avignon since his leadership was very unpopular in Rome.

Construction of the Palace of the Popes began in 1335 and was completed in 20 years. It's the largest Gothic palace in Europe and one of the most-visited monuments in France. From the rooftop of the palace, visitors get a spectacular view of the city and Rhone River.

After a two-hour tour of the palace, a tea break is in order in the garden of La Mirande Hotel at the foot of the palace. It provides a direct view of the dramatic palace, but garden environment is intimate.

The climax of Avignon's season comes with the annual Festival d'Avignon, which occupies most of July. The festival is one of the largest in France, focusing on theater, dance and music. Prices for rooms and meals skyrocket during this period. For those not addicted to theater, this may be a good time to avoid Avignon.

If you go Aix-en-Provence

Where to stay

Grand Hotel Roi René: In the heart of the city near Cours Mirabeau and the business district. Rooms are inviting and contemporary, the elegant restaurant serves typical southern cuisine. The garden patio is appealing. The hotel provides practical meeting rooms.

Hotel du Globe: The hotel is not expensive but very nice and convenient to some historic sites, restaurants and shops. The weekend flea market is at the foot of the hotel on Cours Sextius.

Where to eat

Brasserie Les Deux Garcons (53 Cours Mirabeau): It is rich in history and has charming decor and simple, delicious food. Since it was founded in 1792, this old establishment has been visited by numerous historical figures including Cezanne, Edith Piaf and Jean Cocteau.

Le Clos de la Violette: A one-star Michelin restaurant. The cuisine is firmly anchored in the traditions of southern France, while remaining open to influences from elsewhere. It has a nice ambience and terrace shaded by horse chestnut trees.

What to buy:

Calisson: Calisson cookies are the signature sweet. They are made from a paste of ground almonds, candied melon and orange peel on a thin wafer cover with royal icing. It's rare to visit Aix and not return home with calisson in different gift packages.


If you go Avignon

Where to stay

La Mirande: Converted from a 14th century cardinal's palace, the hotel's 17th-century facade is echoed in its Louis XVI interiors. The gracious garden oasis is a well-kept secret. It's a hotel with a passion for art, food, history and the good life.

What to buy

Les Papalines d'Avignon: This local specialty is a combination of chocolate and oregano liqueur from Mont Ventoux. It makes a popular gift.

Marseille soap: Big blocks of olive oil-based soap have been crafted since the Middle Ages in the South of France. In 1688, it became law that only soaps made according to strict, ancient methods could bear the mark "Savon de Marseille." It's the most famous Provence souvenir.