Apulian chefs share region’s cooking traditions
Print Edition
THE wholesome food of the Italian region of Apulia touches the heart partly because of the simple recipes passed down through the generations, and partly because the local people are so hospitable and warm-hearted.
The region’s hospitality was recently brought to Shanghai during the first-ever Italian Gourmet Week, when Apulian chefs Rosario Didonna and Roberto Bernasconi prepared some of their best Mediterranean treats.
This beautiful region forms the “heel” of Italy and consists mostly of fertile plains. The climate is hot and dry, so hard wheat, olives and grapes grow here in abundance. For millennia, it has been predominantly an agricultural region, and the largest olive-oil producer in Italy.
According to chef Didonna, the low-acidity Apulian oils are also known for their nutritional, healthy properties as well as their quality and fragrant smell.
Didonna is a self-taught chef. He says his mother was a great lover of the region’s local food, and she transmitted this passion to her son.
“And my father, who always told me that if a product is good you have to eat...” said the chef.
His cooking style is inspired by a kitchen of “products” closely linked to the season. It’s made with simple steps and innovative combinations.
When asked about the staples of his native region, Didonna said: “Apulian regional cuisine is very rich, because our region has 850 kilometer of coastline... (it) has a long seafaring tradition, which gives a nod to the tradition of ‘terrazzana’ (simple kitchen).”
The dishes that best represent the region are definitely the pastries and bakery products combined with simple vegetable, as well as its meats and cheeses, according to Didonna. However, with such a long coastline and the sea always in the background, the importance of seafood and fish can be no surprise.
“A journey to discover the region is a journey into a land kissed by the sun and caressed by the sea. I personally think dishes like grilled octopus with potatoes, rocket salad, olives and chopped capers are the most representative; the perfect integration between land and sea,” said the chef.
Apulia’s comforting country cuisine may not be as refining as that of some other Italian regions, but it is full of goodness and genuineness, a pure expression of the natural bounty of the land.
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