Cabernet: Big, bold and versatile
Print Edition
RENOWNED wine critic Jancis Robinson criticizes Chinese wines for lack of diversity, especially the reds here dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. That black grape variety, known for its great versatility and aging potential, acts as a colonizer, spreading over global wine regions at the expense of local varieties.
The vines of Cabernet Sauvignon, budding late to avoid frost, resistant to rot and insects, greatly contribute to its popularity. Grapes, with thick black skin, produce deep red wine high in tannins and acidity, with an easily identified blackcurrant aroma, and sometimes herbaceous notes.
When Cabernet is grown in different soils in different climates, it develops different characteristics. Bordeaux, especially its left bank — including Medoc, Haut-Medoc and Graves three appellations — is the classic home to that grape.
Moderate climate and gravel mounds make the Cabernet full bodied, tannic, high in acidity, with distinctive herbaceous notes like bell pepper and mint.
Most importantly, Bordeaux red is tough when young but improves with age as its tannins are gradually softened. That aging potential makes it the wine collector’s favorite. Some reds produced in the 1930s are still vibrant. Aging can add layers of aroma, such as leather, dried mushrooms and tobacco.
In the New World, especially those regions with warmer climate such as Australia and the United States, Cabernet is full-bodied, with ripe tannin and more fruitiness. Usually, notes of plum and black cherry can be smelled.
Blend matters for Cabernet red, so that it is one of a few grape varieties that nicely reflect the winemaker’s personality and taste.
Cabernet together with Merlot is the most popular blend, widely used in Bordeaux and the Napa Valley. The two grapes complement each other. Merlot softens tannin and adds body, while Cabernet ensures acidity, fruitiness and aging potential. In Bordeaux, Cabernet Franc is also added by some wineries for more balance and complexity.
Some wine regions choose to blend it with their local varieties. For example, Cabernet is blended with Sangiovese in Italy, with Syrah in Australia, with Pinotage in South Africa.
Winemakers in some New World wine countries prefer using Cabernet to make varietal wine to best display its personality, such as those produced in Maipo Valley, Chile.
That red is also known for its affinity for oak. Premium wine producers prefer choosing expensive new oak, which softens the tannins and helps the wine develop notes of cedar, cigar and tobacco.
Cabernet is often recommended by sommeliers to pair with strong foods, especially steak and lamb since its tannins and acidity cut through the fattiness and withstand strong flavors.
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