Chef’s handy approach to delicious dimsum
Print Edition
WHILE machines now do many culinary tasks previously carried out manually, chef Eric Zeng has launched a new menu at VUE Dining, Cantonese restaurant of Hyatt on Bund featuring handmade dimsum.
“Dimsum should go back to its roots, relying on handcrafting,” says Zeng, who has more than 20 years’ experience in dimsum kitchens.
According to Zeng, the Chinese word dimsum comes from Cantonese, literally meaning touching (dim) the heart (sum).
“Originally all dimsum, whether dumplings or rice cakes, were handmade, so chefs had to make them from their hearts,” explains Zeng.
He says only a chef’s skilled hand can ensure that xiajiao — steamed dumpling filled with shrimp — has an almost transparent skin, ensuring a fine, slightly chewy texture.
The new menu sees VUE Dining changing its dining concept from private dining suitable for business entertainment to highlighting public dining. It hopes a homey ambience plus authentic Cantonese flavors will attract more families.
“This is because we see the potential of the local market, especially family diners,” says Edouard Demptos, hotel manager at Hyatt on the Bund.
The restaurant was formerly known for its private dining rooms with among the most beautiful views in Shanghai, embracing both the historical Bund and modern Pudong skyline.
But from this month, one of its biggest private rooms has been converted into a public dining area accommodating 35 people.
“If tables are fully booked, we arrange for diners to enjoy dimsum in private dining rooms,” says Demptos.
He emphasizes that the hotel focuses on quality rather than quantity and will not add more tables to disrupt guests’ privacy and dining experience.
To ensure quality, all the dimsum are served either in a set menu or a la carte, with 60 options that are changed seasonally. Appetizers, hot dishes and desserts are also available.
Zeng, from Guangdong Province, was mentored and inspired by famous Hong Kong chef Dai Long, and uses Western ingredients in his recipes.
“For example, I may use squid ink to create black xiajiao skin to make its appearance more appealing and give each bite more nutrition,” Zeng says.
But in terms of culinary technique, chef also tries his best to preserve and showcase the classics.
The sesame and peanut bun on his menu is one of the most traditional Cantonese dimsum. Sesame and peanut are finely ground and baked for three hours to release their flavors.
“The process is so complicated and labor intensive that it’s nearly impossible to find this dimsum in many Cantonese restaurants,” says Zeng.
He also recommends diners who love traditional flavors try his steamed rice noodle rolls with shrimp, pork and vegetable filling options.
However, while respecting tradition, chef adds a few new twists.
For example, his steamed scallop dumpling with matsutake mushroom is smoked with lavender, chrysanthemum and jasmine tea.
“I try to use deep aromas to impress diners before they even take a bite,” chef explains.
He also serves traditional xuemeiniang — glutinous rice balls filled with cream — with sweetened rose petals.
Last but not least, Zeng has launched four hand-made sauces, including seafood and honey to complement his dimsum.
Three dimsum sets are available: Four courses set (120 yuan (US$19) plus 15 percent surcharge, lunch only), six courses set (180 yuan plus 15 percent surcharge), eight courses set (240 yuan plus 15 percent surcharge).
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