Chinese vermicelli -- The versatile rice noodle
THE term “rice noodle” can be confusing in translation. In Chinese cuisine, most names for noodle-like staples — mifen, mixian, hefen, mipi and migan — all refer to rice in their names.
But in reality, all these noodles have different textures, flavors and uses in cooking.
People in northern Chinese provinces mostly prefer noodles made from wheat flour or other cereal grains like buckwheat. Noodles made from rice are more popular in southern areas of the country. Rice noodles are less starchy than those made from wheat, and soups using them often have a cleaner taste as well.
Rice noodles come in various shapes and thickness. They are used in soups and stir-fries, or drained and served with sauces and toppings.
Mifen is the most common rice noodle, used not only in Chinese cuisine but also in other Asian cuisines.
The versatile staple originated in the southern city of Guilin in the Qin Dynasty (221 BC–206 BC) and reached the peak of its popularity in the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912).
Making mifen is more complicated than just kneading rice flour and water into dough ready to roll and cut. The rice is first rinsed and soaked in water. It is then ground into a thick, almost liquid form, before it is steamed, pressed, steamed again and then cooled and dried.
Mifen is not to be confused with the similar fensi, or cellophane noodles made from beans and transparent when cooked. Fensi is sold dry and often used in dishes as an ingredient rather than as staple all on its own. Popular dishes featuring fensi include steamed scallops and spring rolls.
Guilin mifen has developed many varieties over the course of history, incorporating different toppings, soups or seasonings. The famous horsemeat mifen adds braised thin slices of horsemeat. Other meats, vegetables, chilies and pickles may be used.
Because mifen has no distinct flavor of its own, the key to delicious mifen dishes lies in the master stock that is uniquely made by every restaurant. Typical herbs and spices added in beef or pork broths include fermented soybeans, star anise, cinnamon, licorice, fennel and Sanhua rice liquor. The mifen is cooked in boiling water and drained before being added to the stock. It is then topped with fried peanuts, garlic paste, chopped green onion, cilantro and chilies, alongside other meats and vegetables.
Luosifen, or river snail rice noodles, is a special mifen dish in the city of Liuzhou in Guangxi Province. Made from a slow-cooked broth of river snails and pork bones, the strong-flavored luosifen is sour and spicy, with a distinct smell and taste that one either loves or dislikes. The river snails are discarded after the stock is made. Luosifen features a wide selection of toppings, including pickled bamboo shoots, dried radish, peanuts and fresh green vegetables.
Today luosifen is on the menu of many smaller restaurants in China. One can also purchase instant noodle packages containing dry mifen and seasonings to make at home.
Hunan Province is another major destination in the pursuit of interesting dishes featuring mifen. The rice noodles there are relatively thinner and softer. For breakfast, many Hunan residents have a small bowl of mifen with rich toppings like beef, radish, pickles and chilies. The dish is not only fast to make and eat, but it is also said to “lighten” the appetite.
The most typical Hunan mifen dishes are Changde beef mifen soup bowls topped with the meat or beef offal, Changsha mifen cooked with the flat rice noodles and topped with either pre-made toppings or made-to-order fresh stir-fry side dishes, and the thin Hengyang mifen with more options for soup stocks.
Fried mifen with vegetables and meat is also a popular dish in Fujian and Guangdong provinces. It’s a classic dish that includes bean sprouts, cabbage and egg. A quick meal on its own.
The rice noodle in Yunnan Province is called mixian, which translates into “rice shreds.” The thin, round noodles are served as main dishes or snacks. They can be served in soups or fried.
The traditional mixian is called suanjiang mixian, which involves a fermentation process for the rice. It’s difficult to keep suanjiang mixian in storage for more than a day, so it is always sold fresh instead of dried. The rice noodles preserve a slightly sour taste.
Guoqiao mixian, or “crossing the bridge” rice noodle, is the most popular variation of the Yunnan mixian. The name comes from the way the soup noodles are served. The toppings and cooked rice noodles are served in separate bowls and plates, and diners then add them to a hot, simmering broth to cook thoroughly. The soup stock is a stew made from pork bones, chicken and Yunnan ham. The boiling hot soup is covered with a layer of oil that preserves the high temperature while cooking other ingredients, like thinly sliced pork and fish.
Restaurants selling mixian are found on many streets in Yunnan. The dish is also very popular across China. In most cities, one can easily find a mixian eatery, specializing in guoqiao mixian and fried mixian.
Mixian can also be served as a cold salad in summer, with a sesame paste sauce and vegetables.
Originally from Shahe, which is now located in the city of Guangzhou, hefen is a common rice noodle in Cantonese cuisine. It is also called shahe fen.
Hefen is a wider noodle. It is often used in stir-fries with meats and vegetables. The white, smooth noodles are made in a way similar to mifen, but less complicated. One can purchase fresh noodles or dried noodles, depending on availability. Because hefen is slightly fragile and can break up when stir-fried in big woks, the key is to use ample oil, fry on high heat and cook quickly. Hefen can also be used in beef, chicken or pork soups.
Mipi, or “rice skin,” is a classic snack dish in Shaanxi Province. It is made with thin, broad rice noodles. The rice is first soaked in water to soften, then ground into a thick liquid form with water added. It is then put in bamboo steaming baskets to finish off.
Mipi is often served cold. Unlike mifen or mixian, which put more emphasis on the soup stock or toppings, mipi focuses on the spicy chili oil sauce, fresh garlic paste, vinegar and spicy water made from dozens of traditional Chinese herbs and spices.
The aromatic chili oil is made by pouring hot rapeseed oil into ground hot pepper, sesame seeds and seasonings. Families and restaurants have their own secret recipes when it comes to making the most popular condiment in Shaanxi.
Mipi is often served in smaller portions as a snack food or side dish. It’s also popular as a breakfast meal.
The city of Hanzhong in Shaanxi Province is famous for its mipi. One can also find the black rice noodle there, made from black rice and served with soybean sprouts as topping.
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