INDEPENDENT cafes, once seen as the place to go in Shanghai, before falling into decline for decades, appear to have rediscovered some of their former glories.

China is not a traditional coffee-drinking country, but due to Shanghai's international background, the city became the cradle of Chinese cafe culture.

In the 1920s, Westerners opened the first cafes near the Bund, aimed at meeting coffee drinking and socializing requirements. Both the interior designs and the coffee served copied Parisian cafe culture, complete with wooden tables and crystal lamps. Customers were mostly Westerners, overseas Chinese and Shanghai students who had previously studied abroad. Cafe culture at that time was labeled "exotic," "luxury" and "upper-class."

During the 1930s, the popularity of cafes widened and they became more influenced by other cultures. Cafes featuring booths, Shanghai jazz background music and local pastries appeared in what was then the French concession. In Hongkou District, Japanese-style cafes emerged, offering Japanese snacks.

Many Shanghainese going to cafes at that time were keen to experience Western culture, but some were unimpressed with the brew on offer.

Formal dressing

"To be honest, the first time I tasted coffee, I thought it was really bitter," says Chen Jinjun, a Shanghai native, now more than 80 years old.

"A friend and I described it as having 'a cough mixture-like color and flavor.' But we pretended to ourselves that we enjoyed the taste, since knowing how to drink coffee in a cafe was a sign of being well-educated."

This link with high status saw a "formal dressing" cafe culture emerge that was unique to Shanghai. Locals saw cafes as places show off their social status and grasp of culture, and would dress up accordingly. Indeed, many Shanghainese over 50 still keep this tradition going, although younger people dress more casually when popping in for a coffee.

However, Shanghai cafe culture went into decline in the 1960s and was not revived until the 1990s, when international chains, such as Starbucks and Costa, entered the market.

"Before the 1990s, cafes in Shanghai were all independent, giving each a unique style and character. However, independents include both good and bad establishments, so we - the coffee lovers - now often turn to global brands, where you can be assured consistent quality and good service," says Cherry Yu, a coffee lover.

Xiao Mi, owner of 42 Huayuanli on Wanping Rd, considers that there are other reasons behind the popularity of big brands.

"In Starbucks, from ordering to drinking a cup of coffee takes at most five minutes, which caters for the increasingly rapid pace of life. I don't think everyone has the patience to wait for a cup of hand-brewed coffee," says Mi.

But over the past few years, independent cafes have made something of a comeback.

On one hand, these cafes have revived some old Shanghai traditions - from their location to selection of coffee beans. And on the other, they have brought new characteristics into the city coffee scene.

Most of the independents are nestled among the leafy streets of the former French concession. Generally, they are not big - some not even able to accommodate 15 customers.

Keiichi Nakayama, co-owner of Rumors Cafe on Hunan Road, says that the tiny space is partly dictated by high rents.

"But it's also suitable for a cafe providing hand-filtered coffee, which is time-consuming. I cannot ensure the quality and service of each cup of coffee if there are too many orders," explains Nakayama.

Many independent cafes feature hand-filtered coffee, a way of brewing coffee involving pouring water over roasted ground beans placed in a filter. Aficionados say this is the best way of preserving the natural fragrance and flavor of the coffee bean.

Independent cafe's coffee menus also share characteristics, often dominated by expensive single varieties, such as Mocha Sidamo, Blue Mountain and Mandheling. Some also offer special blends created by the owners.

Many of these cafes have distinctive themes, based on owners' tastes - everything from a collection of exquisite coffee mugs and cute cats to literary salons and obscure movie screenings.

Speaking to independent owners, it seems that many see their function as not just offering a place to enjoy a coffee, but providing a platform for people with similar interests to meet and share ideas.

Many owners seem more concerned about coffee quality and the coffee culture they express than running costs and turnover. And many favor word-of-mouth marketing over hard sell.

Perhaps as a result of these priorities, some independent cafes have been forced out of business due to financial difficulties. However, there are always new ones opening to replace them.

After trawling the city's coffee spots, here are six cafes that embody the quirky independent culture.

Hanyuan Bookstore Cafe

Hanyuan has been described as a cafe selling books and a bookstore selling coffee. Either way, it's a place where reading and sipping coffee are closely connected.

The bookstore cafe was opened in 1997 by photographer Deke Erh, well-known for documenting Shanghai's history and producing books, often in English, taking the city as their subject.

Most seats are near the window, offering good views, and the cafe area has a sliding glass roof. On each coffee table there's a green-shaded 1930s-style desk lamp, so customers can read in the evening.

The eight or so coffees available include latte, cappuccino and the signature Hanyuan coffee - a kind of mocha topped with thick milk and rich chocolate. Herbal teas are also available.

Customers ordering a drink are welcome to read books on the shelves. In addition to Shanghai-related books, there are also some on art, history and literature.

There is also a small room containing antique furniture - including a Mingqing-style hand-carved wooden chair - which is well worth a look.



Address: 27 Shaoxing Rd

Tel: 6473-2526

Opening hours: Daily, 10am-midnight

Average cost: 50 yuan

It's a quiet place, perhaps more suitable for visiting alone.

Vienna Cafe

This is one of a small band of independent cafes in Shanghai that have survived for more than eight years, and offers authentic Viennese coffee and food.

Viennese owner Peter Kycelt opened the cafe on Shaoxing Road, which is known for its publishing houses. From the dark wood decor and marbled tabletops to the 1920s-style ceiling fan, the cafe exudes a charming and nostalgic ambience.

Most of the coffee on the menu is in the traditional Viennese style.

Signature drinks include: Vienna melange, a mild black coffee with whipped cream; einspaenner, a double shot of black coffee topped with cream; and sissi, coffee with brandy.

Also popular are Viennese desserts, including sachertorte, a dry chocolate cake with layers of citrus jam served with whipped cream.

Every Thursday, the cafe holds a film night featuring classic yet niche movies.

And every Friday, a games night is held in which customers can experience authentic Austrian card games.



Address: 25 Shaoxing Rd

Tel: 6445-2131

Opening hours: Sunday-Wednesday, 8am-8pm; Thursday-Saturday, 8am-10pm

Average cost: Coffee and dessert around 35 yuan; main dishes around 75 yuan

There's a lovely sunny room hidden inside the cafe which is ideal for lunch and afternoon tea. Booking in advance is recommended. The cafe also offers breakfast.

Rumors Coffee

This is one of a few cafes in Shanghai offering home-roasted coffee. The owners, Japanese native Keiichi Nakayama and his Shanghainese wife, Liu Yan, say this heightens the experience of coffee drinking, involving all the senses.

When customers come to the shop, the first thing to do is choose their coffee beans.

"Some people say they don't like coffee as it's too bitter. But in most cases, it's because that they haven't found their own bean, one suitable for their palate," says Nakayama.

Usually, he offers five different types of roasted beans - ranging from soft through to dark.

After sniffing each carefully and listening to Nakayama's introduction, customers choose their bean.

Then, customers are invited to grind the beans themselves, experiencing the enticing fragrance the beans emit.

They are also welcome to watch the coffee brew.

All the coffee is hand-filtered, as Nakayama believes this is more suitable for Asian people's light palate.

Fifteen types of single coffee are on offer, with moderate Kenyan varieties and soft Ethiopian Yirgacheffe very popular.

Unlike some other coffee shop owners who juggle running a cafe with another job, the couple dedicate themselves to their cafe, responsible for every detail, from bean roasting to shop cleaning.

"I hope to change customers' understanding of a cafe, from a space for talking and relaxing in a limited way to a place attracting coffee lovers sharing their passion and experiences," says Liu.

Address: 9 Hunan Rd

Tel: 3460-5708

Opening hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 11am-7:30pm; Friday-Sunday, 11am-9:30pm

Average cost: 55 yuan

Tables must be booked in advance for weekends.

Cat Cafe Bliss

This small cafe, hidden away inside an old house, takes "cat healing" as its theme. Japanese owner Kumiko Yanaka says that drinking a cup of coffee while playing with cats has a soothing and relaxing effect on both body and mind.

There are four star "cat waiting staff" - Lala, Sasuke, Tantan and Mame, famous for their unique way of "serving" coffee. This involves either sitting quietly beside customers or jumping from one table to another.

The shop was designed and decorated by Yanaka, and has a cozy feel, showcasing her collection of cat accessories, cat paintings and books about, you guessed it, cats.

Customers are mainly women, either hoping to experience this novel cat therapy or sharing their own cat stories, says Yanaka.

And of course, as well as cats there's coffee. The mostly simple collection includes the highly recommended signature Yunnan coffee, a domestic coffee bean with the aroma of fruit and herbal spiciness.

Yanaka loves baking and her fresh homemade desserts, including chocolate cake and apple pie, are recommended.



Address: 2/F, No. 1, Lane 8, Taiyuan Rd

Tel: 6437-4608

Opening hours: Daily, 11:30am-9pm

Average cost: 70 yuan

Before entering the cafe, customers need to take off their shoes and wear sandals. Ordering a table in advance is necessary.

Dianmo Xinzhi

This is a cafe that doubles up as a culture salon. It was founded by a Chinese woman surnamed Zhou with a passion for Sinology, with the purpose of providing a venue for people with similar interests.

Zhou believes that when coffee, a representative of Western culture, meets Chinese literature, sparks of learning will fly. The cafe's name comes from ancient Chinese "Dianmo," which literally means "classical," while "Xinzhi" translates as "new interpretation." The name expresses Zhou's perspective in terms of classics, using a new simple and plain way to interpret classical culture.

The cafe attracts many English-speaking foreigners, since Zhou displays her collection of classical Chinese literature, translated into English, in the shop. Books are for sale. Every day, except for Wednesdays, a culture salon is held.

In terms of coffee, both single varieties and blends are available. Some of the blends see Zhou mixing four types of beans.

The desserts also merit a try as the Chinese pastry chef, who worked in a Michelin-starred London restaurant, is skilled at using traditional Chinese ingredients to make classical Western sweets.



Address: 139 Xin'an Rd

Tel: 6301-3637

Opening hours: Daily, 10am-11pmAverage cost: 40 yuan

Culture salon information is available at http://weibo.com/democafe or http://site.douban.com/renwenclub/room/777499/

42 Huayuanli

While "Huayuanli" literally means "inside a garden," the cafe is actually located on the first floor of a historical apartment built in the last century, without a garden.

"I hope to build a 'soul garden' for customers, in which they can achieve inner peace, breathe air filled with coffee fragrances and enjoy the pleasure brought by coffee," says cafe owner Xiao Mi, whose main job is working as a lawyer.

The small cafe, with space for 15 customers, is decorated like a European garden, featuring flowers, houseplants and even birds, in the shape of a cuckoo clock. Adding to the homely feel, an old organ sits in the corner, waiting for someone to strike up a melody.

However, the most eye-catching feature is the owner's fine collection of Wedgwood mugs. It is the first - and probably only - independent cafe in Shanghai using fine bone china as tableware.

"A fine bone china mug can withstand the high temperature of brewed coffee and complements the quality of hand-filtered coffee," says Xiao Mi.

Customers first choose their favorite mug and then order coffee. On the menu, 14 single coffees are available, from Mandheling to Mocha Sidamo, plus two unique blends created by the owner. One is "Garden," combining bitter and sweet flavors, while the other is "410 For Love," balancing sweetness, acidity and bitterness. Xiao Mi says she created this to mark her own romantic experiences and interpretation of love.

To keep the coffee fresh, beans are used within seven days of roasting.

As well as coffee, desserts are also on offer. The chocolate cheesecake, featuring a smooth texture and rich and balanced flavor, is recommended.



Address: 42 Wanping Rd

Tel: 6473-8535

Opening hours: Monday-Friday, 5pm-9pm; Saturday-Sunday, 1pm-9pmAverage cost: 52 yuan

The blend "410 For Love" can only be provided when Xiao Mi is in the cafe. Tables for the weekend must be booked two days in advance.