HUAIYANG or Jiangsu cuisine is famously light, elegant and delicate. So special is the fare that gourmands first rinsed their mouths with orchid-infused rice wine in order to appreciate it. Tan Weiyun places her order.

Delicate Huaiyang cuisine from Jiangsu Province is light and fresh, famous for the meticulous cutting of ingredients.

It is considered one of the eight influential cuisines of China and is frequently served at state banquets.

It originated in the lower reaches of the Yangtze and Huai rivers around the cities of Huai'an, Yangzhou and Zhenjiang in Jiangsu. It is sometimes called Jiangsu cuisine from what is commonly known as the "land of fish and rice," the region of abundance south of the Yangtze River.

Huaiyang cuisine is famously non-greasy and considered a showcase of a chef's slicing and carving skills.

Famous dishes include hongshao shizi tou (红烧狮子头), or red-braised lion's head (steamed pork balls in soy sauce); Yangzhou gansi (扬州干丝), or Yangzhou-style dried, sliced bean curd; braised yellow croaker in sweetened vinegar and very large steamed buns.

As a vital link between China's north and south, the coast and inland, the Huai'an area flourished as a business and trading center since the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907).

With many people coming and going, Huaiyang cuisine combines features of numerous cooking styles to accommodate many tastes.

Famous for both originality and eclecticism, the cuisine is the basis of imperial cuisine and the first choice for state banquets in Zhongnanhai, the government compound in Beijing used by China's senior leaders.

Dishes are light, neither as sweet as Shanghai cuisine, nor as salty as northeastern cooking.

The cutting skills of the chef are much in evidence, from the very thinly and evenly sliced dried bean curd to elaborate dragons or phoenix carved in vegetables. The focus is on freshness.

The region is crisscrossed by rivers and canals, so the cuisine is known for its fresh-water dishes.

These include the stunningly expensive steamed daoyu or wild knife fish served before Qingming or Tomb Sweeping Day. The price was raised to more than 10,000 yuan (US$1,569.52) per 500 grams in early April.

It also includes the xun fish, which is nearly extinct, and traditionally served during the Dragon Boat Festival, as well as drunken crab soaked in rice wine served during the Mid-Autumn Festival.

Huaiyang dishes are usually braised, stewed, steamed, sautéed and simmered, and occasionally deep fried, thus winning the love of many health-conscious diners.

Its dim sum, steamed buns and spring rolls are famous; dumplings are noted for their thin skin and rich broth.

Huaiyang feasts and extravagant dishes are described in ancient Chinese literature. Bear's paw in thick sauce and roast tenderloin are among the standouts. It is said that before a Huaiyang feast, gourmands rinsed their mouths with rice wine infused with orchid petals.

Former Premier Zhou Enlai, a Huai'an native, daily dined in Huaiyang style, though the menu was quite simple, mainly vegetables, fish, shrimp and some red meat.

According to his chef An Zhenchang, Zhou's favorite dishes were quick-sautéed cabbage with mushrooms, stewed bean curd, fish fillet with tomato, fish soup stewed with carrots, Huai'an steamed buns and the red-braised lion's head.

Here are some Shanghai restaurants specializing in Huaiyang cuisine. Most also specialize in Shanghai cooking.

Xinzhenjiang Restaurant

Cuisine: Huaiyang and Shanghai cuisines

Ambience: Located on Nanjing Road W., it offers an attractive view of the bustling street of high-end stores. It has just been renovated and the interior is luxurious, featuring golden colors and hardwood furniture.

Who to invite: Business partners, family members and friends

Pros: A time-honored restaurant featuring Huaiyang cuisine, it offers many famous dishes, such as lion's head and bean curd slices. Since the face-lift, diners can order from their iPad and enjoy Wi-Fi access.

Cons: Prices went up after the renovation. The background music, though very Chinese, is a little out of date. The menu incudes Cantonese dishes, which makes the menu rather odd and not as authentic as before.

Recommended: The cold sour and sweet cucumber makes a crispy summer appetizer.

The lion's head meatballs stuffed with crab meat are authentic. The ratio of fat to lean meat is 30:70, which is ideal. There's plenty of crab meat for richness.

Don't order: If you want to have a real bite of Huaiyang cuisine, skip the Cantonese dishes. They're good but not a must-taste.

Drinks: Black tea recommended. Full range of alcoholic beverages.

Cost: About 100 yuan per person

Address: 1111 Nanjing Rd W.

Tel: 6253-1265, 6217-1111

Nanling Restaurant

Cuisine: Traditional Huaiyang and Shanghai cuisines.

Ambience: The quiet restaurant is hidden in a row of old brick houses on shady Yueyang Road, next to the Shanghai Peking Opera House.

It's very comfortable; the decor is white and light green, a soothing combination. There's a specious dining area on the first floor and private rooms on the second floor. Lucky visitors might spot famous Peking Opera masters.

Who to invite: Business partners, family members and friends.

Pros: The dishes are authentic and the prices are reasonable. Waiters and waitresses are well trained. Window tables have views of old houses and greenery.

Cons: Many dim sum dishes are served in threes, and a bit awkward to share. Service can be a little slow and the dining area is noisy at mealtime. It's very popular, so it's best to reserve a table.

Recommended: Cold green onion chicken dressed with sesame oil is a good starter. The chicken is tender and the onion and oil make the dish salty and appetizing.

Meat balls stuffed with crab meat are quite large and can be shared by two women with modest appetites. Pork, crab meat and flour make a slightly fatty but not greasy meatball.

The Yangzhou-style dried bean curd slices is a must-order, considered the most representative dish of Huaiyang cuisine. It tastes a little light but they are balanced by the soup stewed with dried shrimp, making it salty and tasty.

Don't order: The large steamed buns looks alluring but on our visit, the taste was not excellent. The skin was too thick and the broth was so-so, tasteless.

Drinks: Jasmine tea, black tea and rice wine recommended. Full range of alcoholic beverages.

Cost: 80-110 yuan per person

Address: 168 Yueyang Rd, inside the compound of the Shanghai Peking Opera House

Tel: 6467-7381

Meilongzhen Restaurant

Cuisine: Huaiyang cuisine

Ambience: The restaurant is a household word to most Shanghai locals because of its classic dishes. The decor is very "ancient" Chinese, with delicate wood carvings.

Who to invite: Business partners, family members and friends.

Pros: Wait staff are well trained and most are locals, which makes many old timers comfortable. The dishes are classic and traditional. Service is fast. It charges 10 percent for service.

Recommended: Yangzhou fried rice contains large shrimp. Sanxian tendon is tender after long hours of simmering. The lion's head and dried bean curd slices are authentic in flavor.

Don't order: Lianguo soup contains a lot of Sichuan peppers, making it too hot and spicy for many diners.

Drinks: Chinese teas. Full range of alcoholic beverages.

Cost: About 100 yuan per person

Address: 22, Lane 1081 Nanjing Rd W.

Tel: 6253-5353, 6256-6688