French winemaker sows seeds of biodynamics
Print Edition
GéRARD Bertrand is a pioneer in the burgeoning world of biodynamic winemaking, a method of winemaking which emphasize the vineyard and its environment as a single living organism.
Bertrand was first introduced to winemaking by his father at the age of 10. After his father died in a car accident when Bertrand was 22, he took over his father’s small winemaking company in the south of France — all while keeping his day job as a professional rugby player.
As he began to manage his father’s vineyard, Bertrand became convinced that truly great wines are created by first respecting the natural world and sustaining it for future generations. With this in mind, he began to introduce biodynamic farming practices to his vineyards, setting an example for winemakers across the globe.
While many around the world are still not sold on the ability of biodynamic practices to produce superior wines, Bertrand is making it his mission to prove them wrong.
Bertrand’s Clos d’Ora vineyard, in the wine producing region of Languedoc-Roussillon in the south of France, represents the slow maturation of his commitment to biodynamics and the importance of terroir in fine winemaking.
According to Bertrand, when he first visited the area back in 1997, he felt at a sense of peace and harmony with nature. Some 15 years later, Bertrand and his winemaking crew created their first vintage at Clos d’Ora.
They planted Syrah and Mourvèdre grapes alongside the ancient Carignan and Grenache. At the highest point of the estate they renovated an old sheep farm, creating a fermenting room, a barrel cellar — and also a meditation area.
Clos d’Ora wine, produced in this peaceful spot, is one of Bertrand’s finest creations. Using high-quality grapes, the wine is a masterpiece of elegant and balanced tastes. The vineyard of nine hectares is located at La Livinière in the Minervois, at an altitude of 220 meters above sea level. It also finds itself at the convergence of two distinct terroirs — Bartonian and Lutetian — and is composed of chalk, sandstone and marl soils.
The grapes are cultivated by biodynamic methods, with grape-picking and leaf-thinning done entirely by hand. Each grape variety and each parcel is macerated in separate batches in an unlined, thermos-regulated precast concrete vat.
The wine is kept in French oak barrels for 12 month before bottling, and wines are blended each year after the Spring equinox. The wine is suggested to be decanted for an hour before service and served at 17 degrees Celcius. Grilled, matured or slowly cooked beef is the best food for pairing.
According to Gerard Bertrand, “Wine is a multidimensional beverage and sometimes carries a message. The fermenting room was designed outdoors to favor cosmic influences. The barrel cellar radiates a strength and tranquility that are beneficial to the ageing of this wine.”
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