French wines reflect origins honestly
Print Edition
French winemakers are known for reflecting their terroir — the geography, geology and climate in which grapes are grown — honestly in their wine. Soil, and therefore the wine, is believed to change radically within a few meters. Differences between wines from two sides of a river is a great example.
In Bordeaux, the Dordogne River that flows from the Massif Central of Clermont-Ferrand divides wine into two divergent styles: left bank and right bank.
Left bank covers geographic designations, or appellations, represented by Haut Medoc, Graves and Sauternes. It’s home to most prestigious chateaux, including all the First Growths — Lafite, Latour, Mouton, Margaux and Haut Brion. Right bank appellations are represented by Pomerol, producing the most expensive Le Pin and Petrus, and Saint Emilion, where Chateau Cheval Blanc is located.
For two banks, both vineyard size and soil are noticeable differences that directly influence the wine-making styles and marketing.
Left-bank vineyards are generally big, each covering 50 hectares or more. Most are owned by big companies and billionaires, hence larger and more stable wine production. Left-bank wines usually are marketed well and sold globally. But market-driven methods can limit personality in wine.
On the right side, vineyards usually are small, 5 to 30 hectares. It’s the birthplace of garage wine, with smaller and less stable production and high quality. Artesanal methods ensure precise control of ripeness, thus a good concentration in wine. Right-bank wines, though lacking mature marketing, are selling for more in recent years, likely due to rarity.
Both banks benefit from the maritime climate. But their soil varies. Left bank lies on gravel, which creates a good environment for growing Cabernet Sauvignon, intense in flavor and with a comparatively high level of tannin. Left-bank wines usually have structure and good aging potential, with masculine character.
The soil of the right bank is composed of clay and limestone, good for Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Their wines tend to be fruitier and softer, with a feminine touch.
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