SUMMER is the perfect season for mint and warm weather conjures up thoughts of long cool minty drinks and other treats.

Refreshing, cooling, aromatic mint has been used for thousands of years in cuisine, sweets, beverages, medicine and aromatherapy. Ancient Romans thought wearing a garland of mint would refresh the mind and recommended it for students.

There are more than 30 varieties worldwide, including Asian mints, spearmint, peppermint, bergamot (citrus) mint, thyme mint and others. All contain menthol, an essential oil.

Mint is popular worldwide and interpretations differ widely. In the Middle East and North Africa, lamb is famously cooked with mint, which is also used to make teas.

In Europe, mint is used as a garnish, made into jellies used in desserts.

"For pastry chefs, mint is the ultimate accompaniment of chocolate," says Henry Lu, pastry chef at Courtyard Shanghai-Pudong.

Pungent mint balances the sweetness and bitterness of chocolate, bringing out the flavor of cocoa and cutting through the heavy taste, according to chef Lu.

"Although distinguished by its unique and strong aroma, mint is versatile and goes well with various dessert ingredients, from fruit to caramel and cheese. Mint enhances the whole refreshing taste but does not obscure other flavors," says Grace Xue, the pastry chef at the Renaissance Shanghai Yu Garden Hotel.

Steve Grein, executive chef at The Portman Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, says mint, especially strong, spicy and sweet peppermint, has more potential in savory dishes.

"Mint gives a dish more sweet and mellow flavors, helping to create a tasting experience filled with layers," chef Grein says.

He sometimes follows an English saying, "What grows together, goes together."

In the UK, mint often grows with peas near sheep pastures. Chopped mint is frequently sprinkled on lamb to reduce the strong taste; mint and peas are also pureed to create interesting texture and mellow flavor.

"Generally, Europeans serve mint raw, not breaking down its original flavor," chef Grein said.

In China, mint is served in many ways.

"Mint is one of a few ingredients popular throughout China because it's easy to grow," says Tom Meng, head chef at Courtyard Shanghai-Pudong.

According to traditional Chinese medicine, cooling mint is beneficial in summer. Mint contains yin or cool energy and is often used to treat upset stomach.

Chef Meng says chefs from the north used to serve mint raw, tossing tender leaves with sugar and vinegar. In southern China, large mint leaves are often deep-fried and used to wrap meat to cut the greasy taste of fat.

"Recently, Chinese chefs are partly inspired by Western cuisine in using mint," says Alex Li, Chinese sous chef at the Renaissance Shanghai Yu Garden Hotel. Chinese chefs say mint and seafood complement each other.

"Mint's herbal flavor removes the fishy taste of shrimp, fish and scallops and at the same time brings their natural sweetness," chef Meng says.

"Mint also gives the shrimp meat a long, sweet aftertaste," chef Li adds.

Western and Chinese chefs in the city have launched new summer dishes and drinks featuring mint.

? Mint mascarpone cream

This dessert is served in the Chinese restaurant with a Western-style presentation but inspired by Shanghai cuisine.

Jade-green cream made from mint sauce and mascarpone cheese is presented in a martini glass rimmed with salt. When salt meets sweet cream on the tongue, a special flavor sensation is generated. Salt brightens the sweetness of the cream.

"I'm inspired by Shanghai cuisine that uses salt to bring out sweet flavor, as in hongshaorou, pork braised in soy sauce," chef Xue says. "Compared with Western cuisine, Chinese food relies more on oil, and diners may find it greasy. So I choose mint to make dessert, giving the whole meal a light and refreshing finishing touch."

Price: 58 yuan

? Sauteed shrimp with mint leaves and bell pepper

Mint leaves are made into a marinade for shrimp. Chef Li adds a little balsamic vinaigrette for dipping - for those who want a stronger taste. But dipping isn't necessary since the shrimp absorbs the mint flavor and herbal fragrance.

The dish is inspired by shrimp with Longjin tea leaves, well-known in Zhejiang Province. Mint leaves and Longjin tea leaves have somewhat similar fragrance, though mint is sweeter, more mellow and better suited to shrimp in summer, chef Li says.

The chef adds chopped bell pepper and sweetened chopped walnut, adding a crunchy texture. He recommends pairing some round Chardonnay with the dish, which highlights sweetness of the shrimp.

Price: 88 yuan

? Lamb tabbouleh

For this aromatic summer dish, Chef Grein takes inspiration from Middle East cuisine, which makes extensive use of mint and parsley.

The chef adds lamb and raisin to tabbouleh, a salad made of bulgar wheat, chopped tomato, finely chopped mint and parsley. It's then sprinkled with lemon juice.

The mint and parsley release a fresh scent. The lamb is marinated with lemon juice and zaatar, a Middle Eastern mixture of various herbs, sesame seeds and dried sumac. The lamb is tender and flavorful. The strong taste is partly cut by the sweet and mellow mint. Raisins and lemon juice give each bite a balanced sweet and sour flavor, appetizing in summer.

Price: Available (limited) at the buffet (258 yuan+15% for lunch buffet, 298 yuan+15% for dinner buffet)

Tel: 6279-8888

Venue: Tables, Portman Ritz-Carlton Shanghai

Address: 1376 Nanjing Rd W.

? Mojito

The Mojito originated in Cuba, which is known for quality spearmint and superior rum. The drink is made with rum, brown sugar, mint, lemon juice and sparkling water.

Price: 85 yuan plus 15% service charge

Tel: 3867-8888

Venue: Lobby Bar, Gran Melia Shanghai

Address: 1288 Lujiazui Ring Rd

? Mint julep

This classic in a tall frosted glass is made with crushed ice, bourbon whisky, fresh mint leaves and brown sugar. The mint and sugar (some people prefer powdered) are muddled, releasing the mint taste. It's garnished with a sprig of mint.

"I love adding mint in a cocktail because it make the whole taste milder but preserves the flavor and aroma of the base liquor," says Shirely Zhang, the bar supervisor at the Portman Ritz-Carlton.

Price: 98 yuan plus 15% service charge

Venue: The Ritz Bar, Portman Ritz-Carlton Shanghai

Address: 1376 Nanjing Rd W.

Tel: 6279-8888

? Scallops with mint and ginger sauce

White scallops are half-soaked in dark green sauce made of mint leaves, seasonal greens and ginger, so the presentation is in shades of green.

Chinese seafood is in season until the end of summer and scallops and shrimp have tender yet firm texture and good sweetness, chef Meng says.

Diners dip scallops into the sauce with a light, herbal, slightly spicy taste, bringing out scallops' sweetness.

"After eating the scallops, take a bite of fresh mint leaves to cleanse the palate and create a long aftertaste," chef Meng says.



Price: 65 yuan (US$10.2) plus 15% service charge

? Mint chocolate truffle cake

Dark chocolate cake made with mint, carved crystal-like candy flakes, green mint leaves for garnish and bright yellow mango make this a colorful and appetizing dish.

"Mint is used for decoration and is also hidden in the cake," chef Lu says. The filling is mainly mint liqueur to enhance the cocoa flavor, mint sauce to balance chocolate bitterness and brandy for more taste and moisture.

Chef Lu recommends tasting the cake, then taking a bite of the mint leaves and finally eating the mango.

Price: 58 yuan plus 15% service charge

Venue: Courtyard by Marriott Shanghai Pudong

Address: 838 Dongfang Rd

Tel: 3887-4500