Fruity desserts a sweet highlight of summer
FRUIT desserts, light, fresh and eye-catching, are always one of the highlights of the hot summer, especially when people suffer from palate fatigue.
Summer is also a pastry chef’s favorite season because the kitchen has plenty of fruit options. Each month has its highlights. June is brightened by sweet and juicy peaches, cherries and aromatic lychees. July and August are time for coconuts, lemons, bananas, pineapples and various berries such as blueberries, raspberries and cranberries.
Most of the fruits have bright colors, giving desserts an appealing presentation. Pink colors brought by a mix of berry and cream, golden yellow by mango and purple blue by blueberry are the most popular among women.
The various fruit flavors and textures bring dessert varieties. Mangoes have rich sweetness, enough to replace sugar. A coconut’s lightness helps build a delicate sweetness. Sour and tart blueberries and raspberries feature tastes with sharp acidity. Bananas’ deep sweetness give desserts a distinctive taste. Silky and smooth mangoes, soft peaches, crunchy melons and pineapples make each bite filled with layers.
In a pastry kitchen, fruit also distinguishes itself through its versatility. Fruits can be pureed and made into mousse, cream, pudding and jelly. Diverse berries can be made into compote and spread over pies, tarts and croissants. They can also be made into jam as a simple dipping sauce.
Moreover, fruits are good complements to common dessert ingredients, especially sugar, cream, milk, butter and cheese. Durians’ natural creamy and sweet taste makes durian-flavored ice cream popular.
High acidity in berries makes them a perfect match for tarts and croissants, to cut through their fatty and buttery taste.
Sour lemons balance sweet and creamy cheese, making cheesecake lighter and more complex. Milk turns more soft and gentle when mixing with coconut. A banana’s deep character brings out a more rich and round mouth feel from chocolate.
Many 5-star hotels in Shanghai launched their fruit desserts this month, from those using classical European recipes to some surprising new flavors.
Desserts made by hotel chefs, besides maintaining consistent fancy presentations and sophisticated flavors, are made from high-quality fruit, sometimes sourced worldwide by the hotel.
Shanghai Daily highlights some of the most appetizing flavors.
Hyatt on the Bund
Inspired by the ripe and juicy berry in season, the hotel launched a series of berry-themed desserts highlighted by its berry afternoon tea (85 yuan+15%).
This 2-tier tea set features savory pastry at the bottom and desserts on top, with blue and red shade.
The bottom tier is highlighted by a distinctive sweet-and-savory flavor, from smoked turkey with cranberries to Norwegian smoked salmon sandwiches with lashings of cream cheese.
Desserts are highlighted by berry pudding, blueberry scones and blueberry Chantilly tart (a kind of fruit tart featuring a textural contrast between crunchy tart and soft and creamy fruit filling).
The hotel’s fine dining restaurant VUE has also launched a berry-themed menu to show respect to the season, highlighted by the brie cheese served with cranberry and port wine jelly (170 yuan+15%), featuring a balanced taste filled with layers.
Diners are recommended to taste the dessert at dusk since the restaurant boasts a breathtaking view of the Bund and Lujiazui skyline.
Venue: Tea Room (1/F) and VUE Restaurant (30/F)
Address: 199 Huangpu Rd
Tel: 6393-1234
The Peninsula Shanghai
Michelin-awarded executive pastry chef Lisa Crowe’s series of summer desserts are highlighted by mango roll and ice cream sensation, both showing chef’s personal culinary style, with elegant feminine touch.
Mango roll (288 yuan+15%) is a sponge roll made from 2 kilograms of fresh mango from Thailand. Chef says the tropical fruit reaches its best in summer, sweet and juicy.
Each roll in golden yellow color is sandwiched with aromatic cream made from vanilla beans and mango puree with no added sugar so that each bite is soft, juicy, light and balanced.
Chef designs different fruit ice cream for catering to different people. Kids can try the colorful bento box (118 yuan+15%), comprising a selection of ice cream balls, cookies, fresh fruits and sprinkles.
Two others recommended to couples seeking a bite of romance include the ice cream tree composed by mini cones filled with ice cream and sorbet, and ice cream sundae, good for sharing, with vanilla, chocolate and strawberry flavors together with cream, nuts, chocolate sauce and fresh fruits.
For those seeking an overseas vacation yet having to stay in Shanghai, their Singapore sundae (118 yuan+15%) featuring a strong touch of tropical fruit is recommended. Scoops of pineapple and vanilla ice cream are served with coconut sorbet and topped with pineapple dice and jam.
Venue: The Lobby (1/F) and The Peninsula Boutique (B1)
Address: 32 Zhongshan Rd E1
Tel: 2327-2888
Jumeriah Himalayas Hotel Shanghai
Melt in mouth moist texture plus sweet and sour refreshing taste makes British summer pudding one of the best ways to use summer fruits. Jumeriah’s newly launched dessert (38 yuan+15%) marks a return to old-fashioned goodies.
The old recipe can be traced back to the 18th century and said to be created by Anglo-Saxons. Layered slices of white toast are filled with wild berry compote, a mix of strawberry, raspberry, blueberry, gooseberry and blackberry. Deep ruby color promotes appetite. The plain and dry toast, after absorbing all the flavors from compote, turns flavorful and juicy.
Customers can either enjoy the pudding with fresh berries and a generous dollop of whipped cream or an ice cream ball for a chilling taste. For those preferring a light bite, serving the pudding with fresh sorbet is recommended.
Venue: Grill Room Steak House (1M/F) and Art Cafe (1/F)
Address: 1108 Meihua Rd, Pudong
Tel: 3858-0888
Other fruity highlights
• The Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong
Mango tart and mango cheesecake at summer afternoon tea (268 yuan+15%)
Address: 52/F, 8 Century Ave, Pudong
Tel: 2020-1888
• Sheraton Shanghai Hongqiao Hotel
Fresh raspberry and lemon muffin (15 yuan), pineapple coconut Danish (18 yuan) at Bauernstube
Address: 2/F, 5 Zunyi Rd S.
Tel: 6275-8888
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