Italian that will keep you coming back for more
Print Edition
Dongping Road wasn’t just one of the first streets in the former French concession that was shaped into a major food and beverage destination, but has also managed to maintain its standing thanks to a number of cool restaurants. One of the spots that has remained popular since its opening in 2013 is D.O.C Gastronomia Italiana.
D.O.C was one of the first to shine in a lofty, industrial vibe, long before the style conquered the city. Chef Stefano Pace gave the place a very personal touch that has turned D.O.C into a warm, comfortable restaurant with a homey ambience. From tins of tomatoes on the table to a replica painting of a part of Michelangelo’s fresco in the Sistine Chapel, every detail is what has made the restaurant the institution that it is today.
“D.O.C is different from other Italian eateries in the sense that we deliver the most authentic Italian articles in all facets of the Italian way and culture without being too Italian,” Pace said.
By “too Italian” Pace means cliches that many associate with Italy, such as decor in red, green and white, themed after the national flag, or staff who greet guests with a loud “Ciao!”
D.O.C is a restaurant and a pizzeria that serves typical Italian food at a moderate price. “Fresh, seasonal, traditional and as authentic as possible” is D.O.C.’s culinary style, Pace said.
However, D.O.C. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) stands for the highest classification for Italian wines that denotes controlled production methods of wine quality.
Hailing from the Italian capital, with Sicilian roots, Pace has been living in Shanghai for over 13 years. Before D.O.C., he was head chef at Issimo for the JIA Group. He has also been working in five star hotels in Shanghai, Beijing and in Hong Kong.
Pace takes pride in sourcing as many ingredients as possible from Italy — besides fresh produce.
“I have a fantastic kitchen team that has been with me for over 12 years,” Pace said. Pasta, bread, all pastries, sponges, the peanut mix on the bar, chocolates and many other products are made in house daily at D.O.C. Specials change twice a day.
On a recent visit, I ordered the burrata (140 yuan), one of the dishes that keeps me coming back. Resembling a fresh mozzarella ball, burrata is fresh cheese at its best. Cherry tomatoes, arugula, fresh basil and olive oil accentuated the milky flavor.
The house-made organic egg pappardelle (125 yuan) is cooked with marinated Australian veal ragout. Unlike the traditional Bolognese ragout, the rich sauce is simmered for hours and contains veal chunks.
The Australian tenderloin minute steak with artichoke, Grana Padano, arugula, lemon and olive oil (135 yuan) is a good option for meat lovers.
As one would expect, Italian wines dominate the drinks list, including wines from Veneto, such as the Masi Costasera Amarone Classic 2010.
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