Land of unforgettable tastes and culinary drama
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WHILE it may lack the profile and prestige of French or Italian cuisine, the food of Portugal has a charm all its own.
The essence of Portuguese cooking is to let the original flavors of fresh, locally sourced ingredients shine through. While the country’s food varies from region to region, an assortment of fish and shellfish can be found on virtually every menu.
During my three-day trip from Sintra to Lisbon, I tasted some of the most iconic home-style Portuguese recipes, as well as experimental culinary creations by a local Michelin-starred chef.
As in other Mediterranean countries, ingredients essential to Portuguese cooking include olive oil, garlic, onions, coriander, and herbs commonly used to flavor comfort foods.
Portuguese love their codfish, which is a staple throughout the country. There are numerous ways to prepare one favored dish: char-grilled cod baked in cream or fried with eggs, onions and potatoes. I tried char-grilled cod soaked in olive oil with small potatoes on the side at a restaurant in Sintra. The slighting smoky fish meat was so tender and fresh. The strong flavors of the potatoes lingered long after the meal was over.
Grilled sardines are another must-try when one travels to the country. Local sardines are large and meaty. Simply grilled, they taste salty and fresh, with a hint of the grill on their shiny skin.
Also typical for the Portuguese is mixed seafood in soupy rice, served for a minimum of two people. It’s a more hearty homey dish, like something cooked by grandma.
While Portugal’s excellent seafoods are known around the world, its meat offerings are equally impressive.
Pork is favored locally. The black pork of Portugal is the crown. The Alentejo black pig is a breed native to Alentejo. It is an agile half-wild pig with dark skin that eats acorns and fresh herbs. Black pork is not found in every restaurant, but if you see it on the menu, it is highly recommended to try this local specialty.
In more traditional restaurants, dishes will be accompanied by potatoes; either boiled, roast or fried, but always rich in flavor. Black olives are served as snacks and used in oil-based dishes. Rice is also an important feature as Portuguese eat more of it than most other Europeans.
While most of the restaurants found in the country stay true to the essence of Portuguese cooking and traditional flavors, there are talented chefs innovating and reinterpreting its national flavors.
I was lucky enough to book a seat at the trendy Mini Bar, opened by superstar chef Jose Avillez who has several restaurants in Lisbon and one in Porto, including the 2-Michelin-starred Belcanto.
Mini Bar in Lisbon’s Chiado neighborhood is more like a gastropub offering experimental tapas and finger food in a sophisticated space. The cuisine blends Portuguese traditions with inspirations from other corners of the globe.
The prolific young chef has done an amazing job innovating his country’s cooking for the 21st century. His was the most avant-garde and fun food I tried during the short trip.
I opted for the “Epic” tasting menu with a dozen small plates. It was a complete experience journey at Mini Bar, with a fairly reasonable price, perfect for those who wish to taste creativity without paying the same as at the chef’s pricier flagship Belcanto.
Mini Bar encourages guests to enjoy the “whole play” by sampling a range of smaller “acts,” represented by mini appetizers, entrees, fish and meat courses. The small serving sizes mean one can taste a bit of everything.
The “Epic” menu is made of savory, spicy, sharp, and sweet moments. Each dish is a character one won’t soon forget. Some of the tapas creations blew me away, including the foie gras “Ferrero Rocher,” Algarve prawns in ceviche, Pan seared scallops with Thai flavors.
The final “act” was Lemon-Lime Globe, a vibrant green color iced sphere. As you break apart the solid exterior you find a light lemon cream inside the green sphere. It was the mind-blowing moment, the best dessert I’ve tasted for quite a while.
Mini Bar is only one among the many cool and fun restaurants in Lisbon but it does represent the modern food trends in the country.
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