Marcolini workshop spreads love of chocolate
Print Edition
ON a chilly Saturday morning in Shanghai, at Pierre Marcolini’s China flagship store in the K11 shopping center, things were heating up with the launch of a new workshop where people can watch the brand’s high-end chocolate being made right in front of their very eyes.
On hand for the launch were both brand namesake Marcolini and veteran chocolate-maker Alex Vandale.
Vandale has worked with Marcolini for the past five years and been involved in several of the brand’s projects all over the world. Vandale will be based in Shanghai for the following six months, taking charge of training employees and Chinese chocolate makers as well as developing recipes for the brand’s bars and desserts, according to Marcolini.
Since opening for business in 1995 in Brussels, Belgium in a 30-square-meter space, Pierre Marcolini has spent more than 30 years building his confectionery empire. The renowned chocolatier, who has dreamed of making chocolate for a living since his childhood, now boasts 40 stores all over the world, include in France, Japan, the United States and Britain. Just two years ago, the brand had just 24 locations.
World’s best beans
“My job is to introduce or explain the flavor of different cocoa beans to my customers. Floral, fruity or spicy,” Marcolini explained as he led me into his glass workshop. “They are my ingredients.”
A shelf in a separate room by the entrance is filled with air-tight boxes of cocoa beans, spices and other ingredients such as vanilla from Madagascar. Opposite this is a cocoa bean roasting machine.
“This is the chocolate for me,” said Marcolini as he opened a box of freshly roasted cocoa beans labeled “Cameroon.” The beans inside gave off a strong yet pleasant aroma not unlike freshly ground coffee.
“I have been to 14 countries to source my beans. They’re not from a contract,” he said.
While most chocolate makers import roasted beans from farms, Marcolini sources and purchases beans himself. “I pay double the normal price. Sometimes seven times more for good cocoa beans. I visit and eat with the farmers’ families, face to face, in Brazil, Mexico, Cameroon, Vietnam. It’s superb!”
Traveling not only brings great cocoa beans to this multiple award-winning chocolate master, but also inspiration. Marcolini loves traveling as a way to embrace and understand different cultures, local cuisines and ingredients.
Along with the launch of the chocolate workshop, Pierre Marcolini customers in Shanghai can try an intriguing hot chocolate topped with ground Sichuan peppercorn sprinkles. “This is classic hot chocolate; but inside, it’s peppercorn and citron. The taste is magic,” beamed Marcolini.
The drink tastes surprisingly light and mildly sweet. The peppercorn goes well with the hot chocolate; it tingles on the tongue, but without being overpowering.
There is a whole series of cocoa/chocolate-based drinks and desserts on offer by the chocolate workshop, all freshly prepared and served upon order.
Return to tradition
Some people credit Marcolini as the first to adopt the “bean to bar” approach (see sidebar) that many high-end chocolatiers have since adopted. But Marcolini is modest about what his accomplishments. According to him, it’s not a new idea as chocolatiers in Belgium in early 20th century all did the same thing. However, the tradition gradually disappeared with the rise of mass-produced sweets. He just happened to be the one who picked up the practice and promoted it again, he says.
“I started it (bean to bar) from 2001,” said Marcolini of his hands-on approach to chocolate making. “I choose the cocoa beans and I roast the beans in Brussels.”
Right by the chocolate fountain in the kitchen, a working surface displays a row of large chocolate cubes in different shades wrapped tightly in cling film. “These are chocolate examples for Monday, Tuesday, etc. ... After being reserved, they are made into Russian dolls, bars, etc, directly for sale in store,” said Marcolini as he pointed to a few freshly made Russian dolls in three different sizes on the other side of the kitchen. The dolls are for the Christmas season.
There is also a version of the dolls for Chinese New Year — these feature faces resembling little chicks in honor of the upcoming Year of the Rooster.
“I am introducing to the Chinese market what chocolate is to me,” Marcolini said passionately, “My philosophy is the same for all. The recipes are not changed. The chocolates you buy in Paris, Tokyo, and Shanghai (from my stores) are the same.”
This year, Marcolini took Tchaikovsky’s “Nutcracker” as inspiration for his Christmas season packaging, which is a collaboration with Belgian designer Charles Kaisin. “Here is a mini-version (in Shanghai). We have a three-floor tall Nutcracker standing outside our store in Brussels,” said Marcolini, who showed a video of the giant statue on his phone.
In past years, the chocolate master has teamed up with many top-rate designers for the artwork used on his packaging, including Tom Dixon and Olympia Le-Tan. With creative flavors, elegant presentation and, of course, unparalleled craftsmanship, Pierre Marcolini chocolates and desserts are artworks in their own right, which have earned him a reputation as a world-class chocolatier. “It’s just like tea. I remember my trip to Hangzhou. I tried Longjing tea. Fantastic! The price is very high... but high-quality,” recalled Marcolini.
“After the success of this workshop, I plan to open another shop in Shanghai. Shanghai is a big city! Probably, next time it may be a smaller shop,” divulged Marcolini, “I’d love traveling around China. The culture, food, and people are very interesting. First of all, it’s about the creation. That’s my goal!” beamed Marcolin.
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