A few days ago I was dining with a fellow wine lover and he started disparaging rose wines. Paraphrasing his assertions, he claimed rose wines were superficial, too delicate, only occasionally good in the heat of summer and, worst of all, not serious or complex enough. “Nonsense” I rebutted.

Though not to be confused with the most noble and complex of red and white wines, the oft maligned rose wines have their place in the wine world and on your table. They are also wines that can be enjoyed while the chills of winter persist.

The color

Most still rose wines are made using the limited maceration process. You need not get caught up in technical wine lingo, all this really means is that the skins are left in contact with the fruit of the grapes for several hours or a few days. The longer this period of skin contact the darker the color.

The type of varietal used will also influence the color with Pinot Noir and Sangiovese grapes generally imbuing a lighter color. Malbec and Syrah grapes make wines of a deeper color. Other popular red varieties commonly used to make rose wines are Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan, Cinsault, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet France and Merlot.

A less common method to make rose wines is the Saignee or “bleeding” method. This entails bleeding off about 10 percent of the juice while making red wine and using it to make fairly robust rose wines.

Red wine makers do this to make bolder red wines but the by-products of this method are some rather nice rose wines. The third way to make rose wines is to simply blend red and white wines.

These usually result in inferior wines, except perhaps in Champagne, where this method is fairly common. Many Champagne producers add 15 percent Pinot Noir grapes.

Light pink

The south of France offers some of the world’s most resplendent colors, aromas and tastes. Lush fields of lavender, wild herbs and flowers cover the rolling hills.

Perhaps most amazing is that you can also experience many of these sensations in a glass. Just buy a glass or bottle of rose from one of the wine regions in the south of France.

The French style of rose is usually more subtle than most New World versions and lighter in color than Spanish style rose wines. These delicately colored wines tend to have aromas that are less overtly fruity and more floral and there’s always a pleasingly fresh acidity.

These qualities make rose wines from the south of France the lovely companies to lighter dishes or served by themselves as a stylish afternoon quencher.

I would also highly recommend enjoying these rose wines with Chinese fish dishes like Shanghainese-style deep-fried yellow fish or Taiwanese-style sautéed red snapper.

In both cases, the fresh acidity in the wine awakens and distinguishes the natural flavors of the fish. Other good parings include white meat dishes like Cantonese-style crispy skin chicken or barbecue pork.

Some of the best French rose wines I’ve tasted in Shanghai include those from Costieres di Nimes, a producer in the southern Rhone Valley.

They make a trio of good value and deliciously refreshing roses, the Chateau La Tour de Beraud, Fleur d’Eglantine and Galets Roses. Another fine choice from the southern Rhone is the Tavel Rose from a good producer like Guigal or Chapoutier.

The wines of Languedoc and Roussillon represent some of the best values in the south of France. The Skalli Grenache Rose is a perfect example offering enticing red fruit, white flowers and overtones of herbs all for a very modest price tag.

Skalli also has a rose from Provence, the Cotes de Provence that’s also a delicious bargain. The Chateau Gassier is another good value and deliciously floral rose from Provence. More pricey but well worth trying are the roses from Domain Ott.

Deep pink

Spanish rose wines or rosato wines as they are usually referred to in Spain have a heavier and robust style than French roses. As soon as the Spanish wine is poured you’ll notice deeper coolers that are closer to red wine than a white wine.

These wines may lack some of the delicacy of top French roses but they offer pleasingly pungent flavors and in my opinion are among the most Asian food friendly wines in the world. When your table is adorned with an abundance of seafood and meats, these hearty roses are one of the few wines that pair well with practically all the dishes.

Most of the regions of Spain make rose wines. Some of my favorites are from Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Penedes. The first two regions are in the north of Spain and roses there are almost always made from the Tempranillo variety.

As a result they tend to exhibit wonderful red fruit flavors and aromas with a touch of stimulating spices. Penedes is just south of Barcelona and has a Mediterranean climate where the Grenacha and Mourvendre red varieties flourish.

There are also many roses made from the Cabernet Sauvignon grape, reflecting the predilection of this region to use international varieties in their winemaking.

New World

Unlike European rose wines that share common qualities based on their point of origin and historic and cultural influences, New World winemakers are free to make any style of rose they want.

This results in a wide range of styles based on different varieties and the philosophy or personality of the winemaker. Recently, one of my favorite New World roses is the Chocalan Syrah Petit Verdot Rose from Maipo, Chile.

The use of Syrah with a fairly generous contribution of Petit Verdot makes for one of the most robust roses on the market. It delightfully retains the vibrant freshness and aromatics we desire in rose wines.

Buying and serving

With precious few exceptions, rose wines should be consumed young. When choosing a rose wine pick the latest vintage as it is most likely to retain the exuberance and subtleties that make rose wines so appealing.

In general, it’s a good idea to walk right past any rose wine with a vintage older than three years.

Dry rose wines should be served chilled, depending on the style and varieties used. Ideal serving temperatures range from 6-10 degrees Celsius.

In order to fully experience the aromatics properly respect your rose by serving it in a fairly generous sized white or red wine glass.

Much maligned rose wines deserve some love

John H. Isacs

A few days ago I was dining with a fellow wine lover and he started disparaging rose wines. Paraphrasing his assertions, he claimed rose wines were superficial, too delicate, only occasionally good in the heat of summer and, worst of all, not serious or complex enough. “Nonsense” I rebutted.

Though not to be confused with the most noble and complex of red and white wines, the oft maligned rose wines have their place in the wine world and on your table. They are also wines that can be enjoyed while the chills of winter persist.

The color

Most still rose wines are made using the limited maceration process. You need not get caught up in technical wine lingo, all this really means is that the skins are left in contact with the fruit of the grapes for several hours or a few days. The longer this period of skin contact the darker the color.

The type of varietal used will also influence the color with Pinot Noir and Sangiovese grapes generally imbuing a lighter color. Malbec and Syrah grapes make wines of a deeper color. Other popular red varieties commonly used to make rose wines are Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan, Cinsault, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet France and Merlot.

A less common method to make rose wines is the Saignee or “bleeding” method. This entails bleeding off about 10 percent of the juice while making red wine and using it to make fairly robust rose wines.

Red wine makers do this to make bolder red wines but the by-products of this method are some rather nice rose wines. The third way to make rose wines is to simply blend red and white wines.

These usually result in inferior wines, except perhaps in Champagne, where this method is fairly common. Many Champagne producers add 15 percent Pinot Noir grapes.

Light pink

The south of France offers some of the world’s most resplendent colors, aromas and tastes. Lush fields of lavender, wild herbs and flowers cover the rolling hills.

Perhaps most amazing is that you can also experience many of these sensations in a glass. Just buy a glass or bottle of rose from one of the wine regions in the south of France.

The French style of rose is usually more subtle than most New World versions and lighter in color than Spanish style rose wines. These delicately colored wines tend to have aromas that are less overtly fruity and more floral and there’s always a pleasingly fresh acidity.

These qualities make rose wines from the south of France the lovely companies to lighter dishes or served by themselves as a stylish afternoon quencher.

I would also highly recommend enjoying these rose wines with Chinese fish dishes like Shanghainese-style deep-fried yellow fish or Taiwanese-style sautéed red snapper.

In both cases, the fresh acidity in the wine awakens and distinguishes the natural flavors of the fish. Other good parings include white meat dishes like Cantonese-style crispy skin chicken or barbecue pork.

Some of the best French rose wines I’ve tasted in Shanghai include those from Costieres di Nimes, a producer in the southern Rhone Valley.

They make a trio of good value and deliciously refreshing roses, the Chateau La Tour de Beraud, Fleur d’Eglantine and Galets Roses. Another fine choice from the southern Rhone is the Tavel Rose from a good producer like Guigal or Chapoutier.

The wines of Languedoc and Roussillon represent some of the best values in the south of France. The Skalli Grenache Rose is a perfect example offering enticing red fruit, white flowers and overtones of herbs all for a very modest price tag.

Skalli also has a rose from Provence, the Cotes de Provence that’s also a delicious bargain. The Chateau Gassier is another good value and deliciously floral rose from Provence. More pricey but well worth trying are the roses from Domain Ott.

Deep pink

Spanish rose wines or rosato wines as they are usually referred to in Spain have a heavier and robust style than French roses. As soon as the Spanish wine is poured you’ll notice deeper coolers that are closer to red wine than a white wine.

These wines may lack some of the delicacy of top French roses but they offer pleasingly pungent flavors and in my opinion are among the most Asian food friendly wines in the world. When your table is adorned with an abundance of seafood and meats, these hearty roses are one of the few wines that pair well with practically all the dishes.

Most of the regions of Spain make rose wines. Some of my favorites are from Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Penedes. The first two regions are in the north of Spain and roses there are almost always made from the Tempranillo variety.

As a result they tend to exhibit wonderful red fruit flavors and aromas with a touch of stimulating spices. Penedes is just south of Barcelona and has a Mediterranean climate where the Grenacha and Mourvendre red varieties flourish.

There are also many roses made from the Cabernet Sauvignon grape, reflecting the predilection of this region to use international varieties in their winemaking.

New World

Unlike European rose wines that share common qualities based on their point of origin and historic and cultural influences, New World winemakers are free to make any style of rose they want.

This results in a wide range of styles based on different varieties and the philosophy or personality of the winemaker. Recently, one of my favorite New World roses is the Chocalan Syrah Petit Verdot Rose from Maipo, Chile.

The use of Syrah with a fairly generous contribution of Petit Verdot makes for one of the most robust roses on the market. It delightfully retains the vibrant freshness and aromatics we desire in rose wines.

Buying and serving

With precious few exceptions, rose wines should be consumed young. When choosing a rose wine pick the latest vintage as it is most likely to retain the exuberance and subtleties that make rose wines so appealing.

In general, it’s a good idea to walk right past any rose wine with a vintage older than three years.

Dry rose wines should be served chilled, depending on the style and varieties used. Ideal serving temperatures range from 6-10 degrees Celsius.

In order to fully experience the aromatics properly respect your rose by serving it in a fairly generous sized white or red wine glass.