Mulling over 2016’s big local wine trends
Print Edition
THE last few days of the year are a perfect time for reflection. The one constant in Shanghai is change, so it’s a perfect time to review the progress and changes of the local wine scene in 2016. Here are three important wine trends of 2016 in Shanghai.
Earlier this year at an international wine conference in France, a senior executive at the world’s largest wine education organization told me that they now have more students in China than the rest of the world combined. This fact didn’t surprise me. Wine education programs, digital wine information and the numerous wine-related events in our city have had a very positive influence on the overall wine industry. In particular, the greater sophistication of wine drinkers in Shanghai has led to a localization and democratization of wine selection.
Over the past year, the oft times stifling influence of international wine critics and publications has lessened as professional buyers and consumers in Shanghai are more than ever trusting their own palates. Wine lovers throughout China are sharing their opinions and reviews on social media and not merely relying on numerical scores by foreign based critics.
This is particularly true in Shanghai where China’s most vibrant domestic wine scene exists. Apologies to Hong Kong but the wine industry in the lovely fragrant harbor is still far too dominated by foreigners. Shanghai wine aficionados are increasingly more confident and discerning in terms of wine selection.
Bordeaux is still king in China, but progressively the sophisticated consumers in Shanghai are gravitating to other wine regions in France, Europe and the New World. This is always a clear indication of a maturing market as more experienced drinkers tend to crave diversity. This diversity may be regional or stylistic.
According to my friends in the trade, some of the hot wine regions for knowledgeable local consumers in 2016 were Languedoc and the Southern Rhone in France; Veneto, Puglia and Sicily in Italy and Priorat and Toro in Spain. New World favorites included Marlborough and Central Otago in New Zealand, the cool climates of Clare and Eden Valleys in Southern Australia, Limari Valley in Chile and Salta in Argentina. A few top boutique wineries in Shandong, Shanxi and Xinjiang also gained some well-earned recognition.
Feminine touch
My top trend for wines in Shanghai in 2016 has to be the increasing empowerment of female consumers. Women in Shanghai are making their own wine decisions and this is profoundly changing the local wine industry. The days of male wine decision making dominance are over and this means fewer big, tannic red wines and more delicate and elegant sparklers, white and reds.
The sophisticated ladies of our fair city are increasingly choosing wines that better match their preferred cuisine and reflect their preferred lifestyles. This important trend has opened new doors for producers and importers of stylish sparkling and white wines. New female drinkers gravitated toward light sweet wines like Moscato d’Asti and Extra Dry Proseccos, while more experienced palates preferred dry Prosecco, CAVA and Champagne sparklers. Fresh Italian Soave and Pinot Grigio, Spanish Albarino and Argentinean Torrontes whites also increased in popularity.
Somewhat confusingly, this greater female influence on Shanghai’s wine scene still hasn’t proportionately benefited rose wines. I guess this is a trend to look forward to in 2017. One style of wine that definitely benefited from the feminine touch this past year comes from the land of kiwis.
Marlborough is New Zealand’s most important wine region. Located on the northeastern tip of South Island this expansive region produces about three-quarters of New Zealand’s wines. The combination of geologically young and unfertile alluvial soils and sunny and dry weather means that vines must struggle to produce small concentrated grapes. The star grape here is Sauvignon Blanc which comprises the gross majority of regional plantings. Despite recent success, the region wasn’t always known for wines.
Prior to the first vines being planted in 1974, Marlborough was a land of sheep, vegetables and fruits. Over their remarkably short history, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc wines have become some of the finest and most beloved white wines in the world. Busty and lascivious up front, then sexy and spicy at the finish these wines have captured the affections of female drinkers as well as the men who follow them. A good Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc typically offers exuberant sensations of tropical fruit, gooseberry, lime, passion fruit and fresh grass that jump out of the glass and explode in the mouth. They are well made wines with plenty of personality and they’ve certainly been one of the trendiest wines in Shanghai this past year. There are numerous fine Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc wines available in Shanghai. Some of my favorite budget beaters are made by Mud House, Tahuna and Kapuka and slightly more-costly but well worth the price Sauvignon Blancs are made by Villa Maria, Yealands Estate and Wairau River.
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